Thought I'd Join In

[hoogiesngrinderz]

Got another project that I didn't plan on Ordered parts to get it back to where it should be - bumper cover, grill, driver side headlight. Talking with a guy from Kalamazoo about a cowl hood for it...always wanted one.
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Pulled out the heat gun and scraper, hit it with some 180 grit on the DA
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Fill coat of primer
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Blocked out the entire door and part of the rear quarter.
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Found a low spot in the quarter right behind the door, filled it and top coated. That portion of the quarter panel, the door, and part of the front fender has a light coat of black on it now. I need to pick up some black primer as this Omni MBC just doesn't cover very well at all. It almost looks brown when it's sprayed over the grey primer. I'd need to lay down 3-5 coats to get good coverage the way it is now :\

[hoogiesngrinderz]

Paint in the morning, if the weather holds up.

I had to buy new rear calipers after all the work I did to restore them. The bleeder valves galvanic "welded" themselves in...damnit! $140 later I have new calipers on the way. I pray that they are PBR rebuilt calipers like the sale picture depicted. I have an 18 year painting veteran coming over to help finish the paint.

[Darren]

Not pulling the ground effects or mirrors or anything off for paint?

[hoogiesngrinderz]

Going to try to get away with spot painting. 90% of the paint is actually very, very nice. If it doesn't turn out...the whole car is getting stripped.

[hoogiesngrinderz]

First wet coat. Didn't want to level very well, and this black doesn't cover worth shit. I'm going to block it again to remove a couple imperfections.



Also, my special ordered stainless steel exhaust cutout stuff arrived...but with out the electric cutout Just another thing to wait for...

[Darren]

what kind of paint are you using? Single stage?

[hoogiesngrinderz]

BC/CC - no clear yet.

[hoogiesngrinderz]

New rear calipers on. Spent all that time and money fixing up the ones I had only to find out the bleeders were not going to come out So I broke down and bought new ones.

Transmission came out to look for the source of a rattle. I checked everything and I did find the clutch fork wasn't seated correctly. Put it all back together and I still had the rattle and now a clunking in gear. Pulled it out again. Lifted the car at 8:30pm and had it the T5 on the bench for tear down at 8:55. Worn input bearing causing most of the problems but the 1-2 slider has worn dogs for the outer reverse teeth. A new hub should fix the grind I was having while shifting into reverse. Also buying the billet upgrades to stick in there while I have it all apart

[bad436z28]

nice work man u can pull them trannys fast,im used to changing auto trannys they sure are heavier than thatt-5,but could never pull one that quick.them billet upgrades will sure make it alot stronger.

[hoogiesngrinderz]

Imagine if I had a two post lift, so I could use my transmission jack, or used the air tools I shut off the compressor around 8pm or so because the neighbors directly across the street have some young kids.

[hoogiesngrinderz]

Pretty clean inside, only had one tiny metal flake in there. The input shaft bearings were worn just enough to cause a little slop.

1-2 slider / outside reverse dogs worn.


Reverse idler gear dogs are worn



As of right now I will have a bearing kit, 1-2 slider, and a reverse idler gear on my list. Oh, and the billet upgrades I'm debating on new syncros, which would be the biggest cost of the rebuild. $600 if I do get a Master Kit and the billet peices...

[bad436z28]

yeah that reverse idle gear and the 1-2 slider are a little worn,the rest looks pretty good,even they arent real bad i have seen worse.

[hoogiesngrinderz]

Had occasional issues with grinding when going into reverse, throwing it in first before always did the the trick. Might as well replace them while it's apart After more reading, I'm not going with brass sliders and will be keeping the nylon.

Current List:
Main bearing kit ($100) or Master kit ($300) depending on the 3-4 syncro frictions
Billet keys for 3-4 slider ($70)
Cluster support plate ($40 or $60 for billet)
1-2 Slider ($43)
Reverse Idler ($42)

[bad436z28]

yeah i agree u might as well do it right while its apart then it will be good for a long time,thats awesome ur gonna have a nice tranny when its done.

[hoogiesngrinderz]

while I have some down time waiting for parts....