The demise of my 3.4L

[Orange Terror]

Is there that much of a weight difference going from an iron V6 to an aluminum V8 LS1? I don't know what they weigh but it can't be a huge difference, granted, I'd still want to make sure its supported.

Why do you wanna upgrade the rear end? Is there something wrong with it? Guys doesn't his car already have the same or similar 10 bolt that came in all our 4th gen's anyway? If you are going to stick with an Auto I would think you'd be fine with it for awhile. I guess my point is if you are going to spend $1000 why not save it, save up another $1000, and buy a 12 bolt or 9 inch down the road instead. Or you could use that $1000 towards your winterbeater.

[ezysk]

Sucks to hear that about your 3.4.
Doesn't really sound like its on its way out, sounds more like you are really looking for a good reason to upgrade...
Heck, I use that reasoning all the time with my cars.
You know, oops, my alternator belt is making noise, time to upgrade the top half of my engine..

Actually I thought your car was a V8 with how good it looked on the outside.

Get that V8 and you will have the total package..
Good luck..
Curious to hear how it turns out..

[97rs4life]

the v6 rear is the same as a v8 rear. Just different gears and usually open diff. So you really wouldn't have to upgrade that quite yet until you had the money. To get a stock v8 rear you would have to go with the lt1 rear because the ls1 rears had the tcs and all that fun stuff. A used rear with 3.42s/lsd runs around 300 bucks

Suspension is practically the same unless the ls1 had the 1le package with the upgraded bushings. The front springs are different for the few extra pounds the ls1 weighs. When v6 guys put ls1 springs in their cars, the noise sticks up because there isn't enough weight with the 3.8l in there.

So for now all you would need is the engine/trans, pcm, wiring harness, kmember, with the suspension and brakes all attached and you should be all set. I would get the one piece aluminum driveshaft from an ls1 because your 2piece driveshaft is junk. So if you found a wrecked ls1 you would be all set.

[transampimp]

I would just get the V6 going and worry about upgrading engines later. Its going to really stink when you start paying for that loan and you are use to the LS1. How long do guy's with LS1's leave them stock? Your going to want to upgrade the LS1 with bolt ons but be stuck paying off your loan. I think you would be better off paying most of it with cash if possible. Thats what I would do in your situation.

[Orange Terror]

Another thought here Brian, is the motor really taking a dump or is it just getting up there in mileage enough that its at that point that all cars hit that you have to replace things? I guess my point is, maybe your mom is right, maybe you should wait. Maybe it just needs a good tune up and some parts. At the same time, the gearhead in me says get the LS1.

[meissen]

Well, it's the EGR valve. I know it's not much, but if I'm going to spend 300+ to repair it and then start having to pay tons of money replacing parts due to "maintenance" due to it getting up there in mileage, why not just dump the 3.4 and get the LS1.

How much work does it take to put the LS1 engine and transmission in and get it running? I originally had thought it wouldn't be THAT hard and then my dad's all "You need tons of special tools, need to weld stuff, etc."

[MattODoom]

Well, it's the EGR valve. I know it's not much, but if I'm going to spend 300+ to repair it and then start having to pay tons of money replacing parts due to "maintenance" due to it getting up there in mileage, why not just dump the 3.4 and get the LS1.

How much work does it take to put the LS1 engine and transmission in and get it running? I originally had thought it wouldn't be THAT hard and then my dad's all "You need tons of special tools, need to weld stuff, etc."

Put an EGR blockoff plate on it and have it erased from the PCM.

[knuckles]

well it definitly wont be very much fun. are you going with an auto or a stick? i think the stick would be a little bit easier to install. less lines and crap to go with it, just the clutch line and thats about it. although ive never done an auto so i dont know how hard it is for sure. i would think an ls1 would be harder than an lt1, probably have to make more things custom whereas with the lt1 all the parts are already there and fit perfectly. again ive never done it so i dont know for sure. an ls1 k-member would probably not go in as easy as an lt1 k-member would. your car was designed to fit an lt1, not an ls1. making an ls1 work would probably be a bit harder since your car isnt meant for one


im just trying to get you to jump on our lt1 side

[meissen]

I was thinking if I were going to get a new engine, I'd just get a tubular K-member and do it right. I mean really, once you remove the K-member for the 3.4L, I would think essentially it could fit either the LT1 or the LS1... they're identical cars just different engines and support and stuff, but the structure itself for the support and the engine to bolt to is the same.

[knuckles]

are you sure lol i just so happen to have an lt1 k-member i can get my hands on very cheap. i guess youre set on an ls1 then

[Orange Terror]

Alright, well I just wanted to make sure.

To address what Knuckles is saying. Personally, if you are going to spend the money and time, go LS1, you'll be ahead of the game, LT1 is realatively dead technology (no offense LT1 guys). But if you put in an LT1 and want to upgrade again then you'll have to switch everything over, again.

I'd stick with an auto unless you have your heart set on a 6 speed, but its going to cost more and be more work I think. With your car already being an auto (it is isn't it?) it should be relatively easy to put a LS1 4L60e in there. And yes, definetely, even if you can't find an aluminum LS1 driveshaft, get a steel one, your 2 peice will never hold up.

[meissen]

If I do anything it'll definitely be LS1 and preferably automatic but if I have to go with a manual I will, but I'd prefer auto.

[Orange Terror]

Break more stuff with a stick, ask Matt (SS4Matt), lol.

[meissen]

Not really that, but I'd prefer something more reliable as far as track times and stuff. Stick is just not the way to go for the track, all the professionals use automatics for a reason. Plus, living in the Detroit area, traffic sucks and there's no way I envy guys with manual transmissions driving through rush hour and traffic jams.

I got a lot of learning to do but I'm REALLY hoping I can pull this off to atleast start the project this winter. Even if I don't finish until mid summer, I don't care, just the fact that I am starting the project is what's worth it.

[meissen]

Worst part is that I know "Oh, EGR valve, time to replace the engine" is a horrible excuse, but damn I want an LS1 so bad. I'm trying to really talk my parents into it. I think a good excuse to stick to is that if I don't get the engine now, I'd end up getting it later or buying a whole new car, which would be WAY MORE money than just getting the LS1 now and getting it over with.