Which Cam?

[jderry]

I am still not sure. In all theory, the 232/240 would be the best... Since I am going with a 3600 stall how often will I notice that 8-10 ftlbs under 2,000 rpm?

[1BADAIR]

The cam in my dad's Firebird is pretty crazy...

316/326 .608/.638 110 LSA.

He is also thinking about putting a different cam in it this winter.

He was looking at a 302/312 .647/.657 110 LSA

99% sure those are advertised numbers. only compare duration at .050
316/326 .608/.638 110 LSA would probably be 260 and 270 at .050

[masterfab]

if your going to do a head swap at the same time then go with the 1st one. if your going to keep factory heads and just replace the springs and keep the factory rocker ratio the secound cam would be my choice.

I picked the first cam for Ryan becouse he was going with the trick flow 21* heads a .040 bore and a set of 1.6 ratio rockers. plus he's a six speed stick. all the makings for a really hard pulling motor. i actually had to change the cam choice when he desided to change the heads.

keep in mind bigger isn't always better. the 110* lsa is already going to make it sound hot. i would think about what each cam needs for parts to complement it and deside if your budget will allow it.

the only reason i would go with the 1st cam if your not planning on a set of good heads is if there will be a set in the near near future.

another thing to keep in mind is, will you have enough compression to make the cam run at its full potential. i dial'd ryans block/heads/head gaskets to raise his compression so he can make that cam work to its max.

hope this helps

[jderry]

99% sure those are advertised numbers. only compare duration at .050
316/326 .608/.638 110 LSA would probably be 260 and 270 at .050

I am 100% sure you're right.

if you going to do a head swap at the same time then go with the 1st one. if your going to keep fact heads and just replace the springs and keep factory rocker ratio the secound can would be my choice.

I chose the first cam for Ryan becouse he was going with the trick flow 21* heads a .040 bore and a set of 1.6 ratio rockers. plus he's a six speed stick. all the makings for a really hard pulling motor.

keep in mind bigger isn't always better. the 110* lsa is already going to make it sound hot. i would think about what each cam needs for parts to complement it and deside if you budget will allow it.

the only reason i would go with the 1st cam if your not planning on a set of good heads is if there will be a set in the near near future.

another thing to keep in mind is will you have enough compression to make the cam run at it full potential. i dial ryans block/heads/head gaskets to raise his compression so he can make that cam work to its max.

hope this helps

I don't think heads will be going on for over a year...

I am alreadly planning on 1.6 RR, springs, locks, retainers, lifters, pushrods, valve seals, studs, timing chain etc...

So you'd suggest the 228/236?

[masterfab]

I am 100% sure you're right.


I don't think heads will be going on for over a year...

I am alreadly planning on springs, locks, retainers, lifters, pushrods, valve seals, studs etc...

So you'd suggest the 228/236?

yes. theres no need to over cam it. the only reason people over cam is to either make futur up grades. or so that they can make there car sound hot. but putting to big of a cam can actually hurt you performance if you dont have it complementing parts. for instance. ever been at a race street or strip where a car pulls up and sounds like hell it self is under the hood then it launches and you see the chipmunks pushing it. thats an affect of over caming. they wont come together till high rpms by then its to late. your at the end of the track. even gearing dont help.

[JoeliusZ28]

yes. theres no need to over cam it. the only reason people over cam is to either make futur up grades. or so that they can make there car sound hot. but putting to big of a cam can actually hurt you performance if you dont have it complementing parts. for instance. ever been at a race street or strip where a car pulls up and sounds like hell it self is under the hood then it launches and you see the chipmunks pushing it. thats an affect of over caming. they wont come together till high rpms by then its to late. your at the end of the track. even gearing dont help.

Exactly. I think the performance gain you see from this setup will make you think twice about spending all the money and bloody knuckles on doing heads later on. I'd love to have heads on my car, but I'm not losing nearly enough races to want to bother with it

Also if you want some cheap insurance, set your limiter/shift points 100-200 RPM lower than lloyd recommends. You'll barely even notice any difference and your opti and engine will be sure to be kicking ass for a long long time.

Ken how did those 21 degree heads work out for ryan? Ive got a set of those in my sights for my next engine.

[masterfab]

Ken how did those 21 degree heads work out for ryan? Ive got a set of those in my sights for my next engine.

i just got the rest of the parts to finish the engine today and ran out of time to finish the motor before work. so tomorrow i will have it all buttond up and ready to go in. as for your question about the heads. Iv used them a number of times and there is no better head in my opinion other than a set of ported 21* trick flows. iv made as much as 600hp N/A with them and a good cam along with the ls1 computer and coils sheet metal intake i made and mono blade tb. and know i could have made more. you'll love them. LE and AI sells them ported. i only go to LE for cams so if i where you i would get them from AI if you looking for ported or summit if your looking for stock 21*

[JoeliusZ28]

i just got the rest of the parts to finish the engine today and ran out of time to finish the motor before work. so tomorrow i will have it all buttond up and ready to go in. as for your question about the heads. Iv used them a number of times and there is no better head in my opinion other than a set of ported 21* trick flows. iv made as much as 600hp N/A with them and a good cam along with the ls1 computer and coils sheet metal intake i made and mono blade tb. and know i could have made more. you'll love them. LE and AI sells them ported. i only go to LE for cams so if i where you i would get them from AI if you looking for ported or summit if your looking for stock 21*

damn, 600 rwhp? Looks like I won't be switching to LS! I've already bought most of the parts for a 24x conversion, but my next engine is way down the priority list for me right now.

[c0ncEpT]

Since I am going with a 3600 stall how often will I notice that 8-10 ftlbs under 2,000 rpm?

Never.

My converter flashes to 3800.

Driving around town it usually hangs out between 2200-2500 to keep up with traffic. Anything 1/2 throttle or a bit more will put it at 3500. At WOT it never drops below 5500 once its going.

That being said with the converter unlocked you would never be able to load the motor up enough blow 3000 RPM to ever notice 10-15lbs of torque missing.

Us big stalled auto guys don't need to worry about power under the curve as much as the 6 speed guys do.

[masterfab]

Never.

My converter flashes to 3800.

Driving around town it usually hangs out between 2200-2500 to keep up with traffic. Anything 1/2 throttle or a bit more will put it at 3500. At WOT it never drops below 5500 once its going.

That being said with the converter unlocked you would never be able to load the motor up enough blow 3000 RPM to ever notice 10-15lbs of torque missing.

Us big stalled auto guys don't need to worry about power under the curve as much as the 6 speed guys do.

very true. lol

[jderry]

That's kinda why I was thinking the 232/240. It makes the best power up high, I won't be at any low rpms when I want power either...

LE seems to think the 232/240 will be great with stock heads and a converter.... I am still not sure, doing lots of research now.

[masterfab]

That's kinda why I was thinking the 232/240. It makes the best power up high, I won't be at any low rpms when I want power either...

LE seems to think the 232/240 will be great with stock heads and a converter.... I am still not sure, doing lots of research now.

research is always good.

[JoeliusZ28]

Shift points would be my only concern.

[jderry]

LE keeps saying go with the 232/240 if going with a converter too. I was talking to MADZ28, who did my other tune, said he would do shift points at ~6400 for that cam...

[jderry]

After talking with my dad a bit about it, I think I may go with the 228/236. Also I am going to try to get my heads milled, and a possible valve job done.