Red Alert's starting issue...

[prorac1]

I think this has a lot to do with the powdercoated alternator, IMHO. Eric L

[01badbird]

Had similar problem replaced battery,alternator and finally was a stretched belt and would get hot and only run with 12 volts.If serpentine maybe use prybar to get tension on alternator and have someone look inside for volts(use your own caution).(also check belt routing).The only thing is draw while parked but you also had sit for week and start up.maybe install cut off switch (maybe battery mounted)just to drive without worry until fixed.I hate electical problems GOOD LUCK!!

[1BADAIR]

test the batt with a carbon pile not one of those little things they have at auto zone now.

[9T8W66]

test the batt with a carbon pile not one of those little things they have at auto zone now.

Agreed
I've seen plenty of batteries read 12+v with a voltmeter and wouldn't hold a load. I also have 2 Carbon Pile testers at work.
To pass the battery must hold 9.5 volts or higher for 15 seconds under 50% load of the CCA.

[ThreeHonks]

im with eric on this one - ground issue.

I have had one in my car before and it would slowly drain the battery

[nascarnate326]

ground issue makes the most sense but damn is that going to suck finding.

[prorac1]

This is getting way over thought, lol. Make sure the mounting surfaces on the alt and main acc bracket are paint free, ohm the ground cable, clean the grounding surface for the cable, and go from there. Eric L

[ICEPICK]

how about this, when the battery is dead..... test it to see what it reads, if its 12.5 from ground post to positive post i would say its not the battery.also powder coating shouldnt hurt it since well...... the bolt runs thrue the middle so i bet its metal to metal, once you see if the battery holds its charge but you get a dead start, you need to move wires, maybe its your ignition could be bad, like you said maybe dash wires like you mentiond. but always see what you got, maybe your dead batt isnt dead at all, but moving things to hook up the cables get you power.

[Derek]

I wouldn't know where to begin to tackle this mess. You have rewired a ton of stuff for your car pc-dash-sound system-lt1 etc... haven't you? Eeek. However, it seems puzzling to me that your battery is draining and needs to be jumped if you say that whatever test you ran said that nothing was draining the battery when the key was off.

[1BADAIR]

how about this, when the battery is dead..... test it to see what it reads, if its 12.5.

i have seen many batterys that show good voltage but wont crank a car.

[BigJeffSS]

I would start by doing the basic tests I mentioned before. They are basic electrical tests that are starting points that I do on every car that has issues like yours. Right now you don't know if you chasing a electrical draw or bad connection issues so it is a guessing game. If your lost on how to do some of these tests feel free to PM me.

[ICEPICK]

i have seen many batterys that show good voltage but wont crank a car.

right but at the same time is the battery dead or is there somthing els going on, mine turned out to be the tach wire after 6 yrs i just discoverd that, then figured out 2 othere things and added relays for safty

[steddy]

Or if you've ever had a battery with a broken plate or other internal defect. Good god, I had one that stumped me and a few others. Showed good voltage, hit the switch, totally dead. Volts come up and start the car, afterward same deal, then no start. Of course B proved that out with another battery, but that can be twisted. Anyway, I'd star at grounds. Remember the K.I.S.S. principle. Go free first before finding high dollar replacements did nothing to fix.

[meissen]

Yikes lots of replies since yesterday!

The alternator is painted, not powdercoated, but I'll make sure the mount points are clean and clear of any paint. I vaguely remember them being free of paint, but I'll make sure when I put the alternator back in today to get the car drivable again for FBody's at the Barn.

I really don't think it's the battery or the alternator anymore, I do believe it's either a wiring/ground issue or parasitic draw from inside the dash (car alarm or car PC). Then again it could just be all the damn things I've added that require a bit of juice while the car is off. All the aftermarket gauges require constant draw for it to remember the color to light up with, the wideband requires constant power to retain the calibration settings, radio requires constant draw for station settings, PCM requires constant draw, etc etc.

[ICEPICK]

my tach had constent power didnt need or realize till a couple weeks ago. the needle was up all the time instead of droping when the car was off. so u might need a second battery for the crap or just to start the car. will be the best investment you make if that is the problem. oh tthe tach needel would kill the battery dead in 3 days.