Red Alert's starting issue...

[ezcruisn71]

The only time the light should be on is if you have the door open, hood light on because it is open, or your glove box door is open.
Remember you are putting the test light in series with your battery lead not across the battery in parallel.

If one of the Diodes inside the Alternator was shorted, this can also drain the Battery, but the Alternator will still put out the correct Voltage, and therefore pass the Voltage Output Test, however it could not put out full Current, and would fail the Current Load Test, if the auto parts store actually ran that test.

[meissen]

Ah OK - I'll give it a shot then.

[Fbomb]

Your alternator doesn't heat up when you leave it, does it?

[ezcruisn71]

Just make sure before you hook up your test light that you remove your dome light lamp or tape over you door switch so the dome light can not come on while you are testing for a current draw. Also make sure your hood light is removed and your glove box light is off.

[ezcruisn71]

Brian, here is some info I copied out of an old manual for you on hooking up the 12v test light.

Constant Current Drain Test
Check for current drains on the battery in excess of 50 milliamps with all the electrical accessories off and the vehicle at rest. This test can be performed one of three ways.
. Use a "clamp on" current probe to the battery
positive or negative cable. ;
. Use an ,in-line ammeter between the battery
positive or negative post and its respective cable.

Use a 12 volt test lamp between the battery positive post and the positive cable. If the lamp illuminates then there is a drain somewhere in the electrical system.



Typically, a drain of approximately one amp can be attributed to an underhood lamp, glove compartment lamp, or rear deck lid lamp staying on continually. Other component failures or wiring shorts may be located by selectively pulling fuses or disconnecting fuse links to pinpoint the location of the current drain. When the current drain is found, the current-will drop below 100 milliamps or the test lamp will go out. If the short is still not located, after checking all the fuses and fuse links, the drain may be due to the alternator/regulator. Disconnect the alternator output w.ire from the output stud and the regulator connector. If this eliminates the drain, check the charging system to locate the problem.
NOTE: A voltmeter is sometimes used for this test but it will react to a very small normal drain caused by "always-on" electronic systems such as Starter Interlock, Anti-Theft Alarm, Illuminated Entry, etc., which are so small they cause no problem. The test lamp shows only drains which are large enough to
cause a problem. .
NOTE: When the electronic instrument cluster is initially powered-up (after a battery disconnect), the "computer" may be energized for as long as one minute causing a .25A current draw before returning to the normal .010*.012A current draw. Therefore, it is important to allow at least one minute to pass (after ammeter hookup) before observing any current measurements.

Also remember this:
If one of the Diodes inside the Alternator was shorted, this can also drain the Battery, but the Alternator will still put out the correct Voltage, and therefore pass the Voltage Output Test, however it could not put out full Current, and would fail the Current Load Test, if the auto parts store actually ran that test.

[farmington]

The clock in the radio will have power flowing. Pull the radio fuse so no current should be flowing anywhere.

[squareandcompass]

ezcrusin71,

Most excellent post!

Cat.

[1BADAIR]

you have to use a good test light for that. the $5 cheapy;s wont work. you need a good high impedance one.
. DVOM with a milliamp setting should be used
http://www.aa1car.com/library/battery_runs_down.htm

[meissen]

Thanks guys! Not sure how many of you saw the burning my hooptie to the ground thread but my alternator turned out being bad after all - the diode was bad. My dad thinks if the regulator was bad on the alternator, it would draw the battery down and hence be my problem I was having with parasitic draw and not starting. I drove the car on Friday to and from work and had no issues - I plan to drive it as much as possible since that's the only way I can test the no start issue.

[prorac1]

Alternator > Brian, lol. Ive learned some very important lessons here on MIFBODY. Number 1, always listen to Larry, lol. He hasnt steered me wrong yet. Eric L

[meissen]

Started the car twice today with no problems - so far so good!