Red Alert's starting issue...

[ICEPICK]

sucks

[OIF1VET]

You'll get her figured out B! I have no doubt..

[1BADAIR]

step 1
unhook all non factory stuffs

[Derek]

step 1
unhook all non factory stuffs

lolz, you mean.. the entire car?

[meissen]

yeah that'd be basically unwiring the whole car.

[98blackbeauty]

When I get back from vacation you should bring it over and leave it in my garage so I can work on it. Or while I'm gone charge battery and unplug fuse that powers inside lights and body control module. See if battery goes down. We really have 2 issues we have been fighting. 1. parasitic draw. and 2. starter issue. I think the starter issue is when you drive a while and stop, then go to start car it clicks and won't start till you wait 1 hr. That problem I believe is the starter gear to flex plate clearance is to small, everything expands and gear can't come forward enough to engage and let solenoid engage contacts to spin starter. When it cools down car starts fine without a jump. The parasitic draw is the tough one. I also wonder about the connections that are rerouted under the wheel well. Its just going to take time to find it and not shot gun it.

[DETROITMUSCLE]

I know Brian said you guy put a heat blanket on the starter or something similar but have you wired in a remote mounted solenoid yet? that seems to be a pretty common problem and should be cheap and easy to test, if not shimming it should work as you already know. I'd start pulling fuses like others have mentioned

[Fbomb]

We had a problem starting the 67 all the time where it would just click. Installed a remote solenoid and it starts reliably now.

[meissen]

I just don't think it's the starter being bad... with the heat blanket and heat shield on it I have a hard time believing it could be heat related. For example, I started the car while the engine was cold a few weeks ago to pull it out of the garage and that's it - didn't let it run more than 5 minutes. Went to start it about 5-10 minutes later and I needed to jump it.

I'm going to throw the trickle on it tonight and then start pulling fuses to see if it makes any difference. I'm going to start with the radio fuse.

[Fbomb]

Well the thing was that it would burn up the wire leading up to the solenoid. Every time I replaced the wire it would work again. So, it happened when it was cold too.

[sman]

Put a tester inline on the pos battery cable and start pulling fuses. I know its been said before, but thats got to be the easiest way.

[ezcruisn71]

Put a tester inline on the pos battery cable and start pulling fuses. I know its been said before, but thats got to be the easiest way.

[meissen]

That's my biggest problem - our ammeter said 0.00 amps when we put it inline with the battery and opened the door.

[ezcruisn71]

Don't use the ammeter. You use a 12volt test light and put it in series with your battery cable coming off the battery. Then you start pulling fuses out 1 by 1 til the light goes out. Then that is the area that you need to address because that is were your battery drain is probably coming from.
Have you ever tried turning on your head lights while you were trying to start your car?

[meissen]

Wouldn't the test light always be on because it's always getting juice from the battery?