Welcome to the Michigan FBody Association website.
The Michigan FBody Association is a centralized website for FBody enthusiasts to discuss what's going on in the Michigan area. MiFbody.com was created to allow for an easy one-stop place to find out what's going on in Michigan as far as FBody events, to find out what clubs are available in your immediate area, and for an easy place to post classifieds for items you want to sell! Our goal was to create a more close-knit community of FBody enthusiasts in the state of Michigan, and to bring Camaro and Firebird enthusiasts alike together for some amazing FBody events!
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Anyways the LPP Y should work anyways since it's a 2-piece part isn't it?
If not it's all just a matter of heating and bending, again and again. That'd be a pain.
Quoting Derek: "Would have gone faster but we had to do a little clearing to the k member as well as some clearancing on the Y-Pipe"
Apparently he had some fitment issues but he also stated that his car was in a front-end collision. Then again mine just rolled over to 100k.
I guess I should just try to find the cheapest stainless Y then. Off to Ebay!
The set off ls1 lpp's I installed needed a little "persuasion" with a mini sledge to get to fit, first primary on the driver side was hitting the motor mount tower, pretty good too. I didnt like the collectors either, made the rest of the exhaust hard to hook up.
I went with pacesetters on my car, out of all I read, they seem to fit the best more of the time than anything else, but all longtubes will have issues time to time. Pacesetters also wont work if your hearts set on stainless.
I also used the vette rear o2s on mine to avoid using extensions. But they seems to work either way,
Very nice Larry, sounds great. But then again you have a cam, and probably a ton of other mods. Maybe I'll get a nice cam in the spring if I have the money...
I might have a shot at getting a new prototype FAST intake too, maybe for free.
I did some reading on VHT coating, is it just paint or is it basically ceramic coating? There's a curing process to do with it where you have to heat it up and cool it a few times. It'd be nice to be able to ceramic coat some stainless headers since I can get it for like $6/can.
The vht stuff is garbage, I bet it would all flake off within a week. I used some por-20 on mine and while its wayyy better than anything else I have tried I know it won't last forever. There are several places locally that do ceramic coating and that in my opinion is better than stainless because it keeps temps down and will last a long time as well.
That is very true. You can get some headers that fit and check out a local place that'll coat it and your worries are over. Another thought to consider is that I'm not sure that paint adheres to stainless or not.
Maybe I don't need to worry about underhood temps so much because my airbox is in front of the motor but they will be higher than with manifolds right? Or will the increased flow evacuate more of the heat and make up for the thinner headers vs. manifolds?
the underhood temps aren't just for the airbox they are more for keeping the motor cooler as well. It will be hotter under the hood than with your stock manifolds but nothing thats gonna really hurt you in the end. Hope those headers work out for you though, usually you get what you pay for and those don't necessarly have a great rep for easy install.
Exactly why I'm going to give myself a whole week for the install...which I certainly hope will be enough time.
How do I do the motor mounts? basically put my car up on some rhino ramps (which I still have yet to buy) and then support the motor with a very padded jack, then swap them out right? Are they riveted in or bolted?
I don't think I can afford a cutout now either, so I'll wait and see what happens. Might just be a few years down the road but by then I might build a new motor, forged and stroked.
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