Welcome to the Michigan FBody Association website.
The Michigan FBody Association is a centralized website for FBody enthusiasts to discuss what's going on in the Michigan area. MiFbody.com was created to allow for an easy one-stop place to find out what's going on in Michigan as far as FBody events, to find out what clubs are available in your immediate area, and for an easy place to post classifieds for items you want to sell! Our goal was to create a more close-knit community of FBody enthusiasts in the state of Michigan, and to bring Camaro and Firebird enthusiasts alike together for some amazing FBody events!
The most important thing to know about the Michigan FBody Association is that we are NOT a club! The Michigan FBody Association is open to everyone, and is a community. Thus, we will have get togethers, casual cruises, events, and such like that, but this is not an exclusive club and it's 100% free to join this site! So what are you waiting for? Register now!
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Just a little information about the 3800 series 2. Supposedly, the killer of the engine is the lower intake manifold gasket (I have to do them on the boat). So it's a good thing you are replacing gaskets.
Either way, looks like a nice engine. Keep the updates rolling in.
Got me some felpro problem solver aluminum lower gaskets, these things are beasts!
Yup, opening them biotches up! Takes forever! I need to get some more coarse dremel bits. You can see my technique is much better on the middle port. I'll do the fine lines and blending last.
Got the exhaust on one head ported. Still have to mirror polish them. Sadly this is all I have done. But considering it's only March, I work full time, and I go to Ann arbor weekly for my wife's rare syndromes....it's progress! Next intake ports, unshrouding valves, and paint! Stay tuned!
Here you can see how much I've opened the exhaust ports. Stock in the rear, ported in the front.
Better comparison pics. I'm losing some compression in the combustion chambers, but I am offsetting that with thinner head gaskets.
Enlarged the intake ports and coolant passages by port matching. Remembered to leave the chambers slightly rough to help fuel atomization. The height of the ports are probably 4-6mm taller, but the width only 2-3mm. I am matching them to felpro aluminum helper gaskets.
Gasket matched the exhaust ports. Was told not to do this, but I think it will help. I'll take care of the backpressure issue in the headers. Still need to polish them for best effect and to inhibit carbon buildup.
Lots of cleaning here. There was some putting. Removed all sharp edges and flashing. Cleaned the entire valve area making sure to not touch the valve sealing area. I did buy a valve lapping tool and compound, so I'll redo that area too. I still have to polish this entire area to once again to inhibit carbon buildup, and also help with combustion equalization.
Stay tuned...paint and passenger head work to come [emoji123]
Wow been 2 months since I updated! Just got my 20 over pistons and ARP rod bolts this past week. Pistons should be here Monday. Sway bars should be shipping this coming Friday. Still have to order stiffer end links and sway bar mounts. Not sure which ones I want, looking like Bmr so far. Hopefully I'll get the heads finished this coming week too. Spent the last couple weeks fixing up my house. Oh yeah, ordering 2-LM2 mufflers this coming week too! Busy busy!
Tearing the old engine down a bit. l gotta get the rollmaster timing set, and balancer to CTech so they can balance my rotating assembly. I forgot to take pics of some of the new parts going in. I sent the shop my new pistons, rings, and some use con rods. Probably other stuff too. This past week i picked up some BMR LCAs and a Spohn panhard. Ill post pics as i progress from now on. My plans changed a little, going to stick with the 9.2:1 pistons because I'm going to add a turbo. Reading up on them now and I'll study piecing one together soon. Still gotta pull the T5 and sent it to florida so Astro can make it an A5 for me. Still deciding on clutch, rear end, etc.
My method for removing the balancer. Tapped the first 1/4 of threads, used the bolts that came with the puller kit i borrowed from auto zone. Only used 2, slid right out.
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