Project: 1967 Firebird 326 Rebuild

[OVRKILL]

Tick, tock, tick, tock....

[ktl711]

Sunday after Dream Cruise still has lots of nice cars out, you'll still have a nice cruise if you can jump the final hurdles!

[bri2203]

Already have the 2 bracket guides bolted in... Not sure what this thing is for



Can I prime it by turning it over without the throttle linkage hooked up or how do I do this?

I did pick up a bottle of zinc additive for the oil so I hope that suffices.

Should I expect the hoses to break in after they see a few heat cycles and water?

No, to prime the engine you only spin the oil pump to lubricate evertythng well. Most people use an extra distributor on a drill. The rotating assembly does not move.

I would prefer to a use an oil designed for break in. They formula is design specifically to meet the critical needs of new engines during break-in while allowing proper seating of the rings and compenents.

As you know when your cooling system is under pressure when it is warm. The heater hoses are not the problem, the problem is the crappy reproduction clamps do not usually have enough tension seal the hose to the nipple. People usually intall worm driven clamps for a better seal and reliability.

You think you have a 4x4? I saw you turning around at that apartment complex last night after woodward closed. I hope you didn't scrap up your bumper too bad.

[Lucky SOB]

No, to prime the engine you only spin the oil pump to lubricate evertythng well. Most people use an extra distributor on a drill. The rotating assembly does not move.

I would prefer to a use an oil designed for break in. They formula is design specifically to meet the critical needs of new engines during break-in while allowing proper seating of the rings and compenents.

As you know when your cooling system is under pressure when it is warm. The heater hoses are not the problem, the problem is the crappy reproduction clamps do not usually have enough tension seal the hose to the nipple. People usually intall worm driven clamps for a better seal and reliability.

You think you have a 4x4? I saw you turning around at that apartment complex last night after woodward closed. I hope you didn't scrap up your bumper too bad.

Thanks. Must have been another car like mine. I was diverted onto 12 mile and didn't scrape anything.

[Lucky SOB]

Turned the key, got nothin! Not even a peep from the starter. Thinking its the connector to the fire wall, or I wired the starter up backwards. We'll be checking tomorrow for voltage. Also, starter could be dead, but what are the chances?

Enjoy a couple buttoned up, fluid filled pictures!

[ktl711]

Looks beautiful! Crossing my fingers that it will run beautifully for you too!

[ryanwarby01]

Good luck, Fred. Hope to see this car on Woodward soon.

[Lucky SOB]

Need some help here folks

When we jump the yellow wire that goes to the starter, to the battery cable on the starter, it kicks the starter and turns the engine over. But when we jump from pin to pin in the block connector, it doesn't kick the starter. But, when we test from the block connector pin to the other end of the wire down at the starter, there's continuity. Trying to figure this out, but any thoughts?

[ktl711]

Sorry señor -- No Habla El Ectricol...

[hoogiesngrinderz]

I'll have to re-read this in the morning, too exhausted to try and picture it right now

[Lucky SOB]

I'll have to re-read this in the morning, too exhausted to try and picture it right now

The block connector I'm talking about has 10 pins in it and connects to the fire wall. It's the end of the engine bay wiring harness.

[bigjon88]

http://thefirstgensite.com/library/6...ce/FI67S12.pdf

[Lucky SOB]

http://thefirstgensite.com/library/6...ce/FI67S12.pdf

Thanks Jon - a bit easier to follow than the wiring diagram I dug up!

[hoogiesngrinderz]

Need some help here folks

When we jump the yellow wire that goes to the starter, to the battery cable on the starter, it kicks the starter and turns the engine over. But when we jump from pin to pin in the block connector, it doesn't kick the starter. But, when we test from the block connector pin to the other end of the wire down at the starter, there's continuity. Trying to figure this out, but any thoughts?

Looking at the schematic, the yellow wire should go to the + side of the coil. Purple wire should go to the trigger post of the starter solenoid.

[Lucky SOB]

I'll double check it this weekend, but the yellow is on the low side when it's installed. My Dad was doing some reading earlier and thinks it might have to do with the Maxi Fuse?