Charlyne 95 Z28 M6

[JoeliusZ28]

You need some drop springs in the rear

[c0ncEpT]

You need some drop springs in the rear

Even cutting a half or full coil out would do that car wonders.

[Fox Slaughter]

Well still chasing the vibration.

Centered the rear end today.
Adjusted the coilovers to get the same height on both sides.
Adjusted pinion angle to -2* to -3* degrees.
Vibration is still 90+ even while coasting.
Read a Hurst document saying if you can feel it in the shifter, which I can it is likely a bad u joint or front driveshaft balance.

So going to check the driveshaft for runout to rule out it being a yoke or pinion.
Adjustabled LCAs are on the way so will center the rear end in the wells.

Anyone one know who does good driveshaft balancing?

[c0ncEpT]

Dynotech in Troy. They can balance a driveshaft to like triple the speed of anyone else around.

[my95z28]

You running on the drag setup right now or the Miglia 1000s? Those Miglias are super soft metal and are slightly out of round, so that could be where your vibration is coming from. Took me forever to figure out what the issue is, those are actually BMW wheels if you ever need to look up info on them.

[Fox Slaughter]

You running on the drag setup right now or the Miglia 1000s? Those Miglias are super soft metal and are slightly out of round, so that could be where your vibration is coming from. Took me forever to figure out what the issue is, those are actually BMW wheels if you ever need to look up info on them.

Yeah but the thing was before I put the car away and started the driveline work, I've had it up to 130 with no vibration at all.
So I don't think its anything to do with the wheels. Although when I had the rear tires mounted Discount was like "you're wheels are bent, I can hook you up". I thought he was trying to get a sale as I said I have never had the vibration before.

I also feel it through the shifter not really the car so much.

[Fox Slaughter]

Starting to think you're right Kyle.
When I put the drag trim on today I rolled the 1000s and they wobble. Looked at one of thems and the sticky weights were missing.

Probably try to find someone with rims I can borrow and check it out.
Cause run out was less than .010 on the driveshaft.

[JoeliusZ28]

Starting to think you're right Kyle.
When I put the drag trim on today I rolled the 1000s and they wobble. Looked at one of thems and the sticky weights were missing.

Probably try to find someone with rims I can borrow and check it out.
Cause run out was less than .010 on the driveshaft.

Youre welcome to come borrow some salad shooters from me.

[Fox Slaughter]

I might have to.

I have been looking at some OE wheels.

http://www.oewheelsllc.com/Wheels_3/...Pontiac/C6-Z06

[Fox Slaughter]

Aside from that think I have a valve cover gasket leaking from when I put the covers back on.
Need to get into that.

Going through some other ideas off the wall in my head.

[Fox Slaughter]

Someone double check this wiring schematic I drew up.

Nitrous Wiring.jpg

How it works:

When you depress the clutch 12v is sent down the green wire to 85, which activates the solenoid, which gives you 12v when cranking on 30 then to 87 to use the clutch switch to start the car.
12v goes down the green to the toggle switch, when closed will provide 12v to the LED to signal the Line lock is on.
Continues to the next toggle when closed will tell the Mallory to activate 2 step.
Goes to 85 on the center relay, which activates sending 12v from the red to the pink wire which locks up the line lock.
Goes up to the top solenoid, into 85 which activates the solenoid removing the 12v from WOT switch and doesn't allow the Mallory to get Window switch 12v or the nitrous relay to have 12v to activate.

Once clutch is released it opens the relay which then allows the WOT switch to send 12v to the Mallory activating the window switch and energize the nitrous relay thus spraying off the line.

Now I want to keep the line lock for burn outs, so if I wire the push button into the green wire, open the first toggle and the toggle to the 2 step on the Mallory that will energize the line lock solenoid, kicking the line lock in, 2 step will not be active, and the WOT switch solenoid will open which will stop it from spraying (Plus the nitrous kit wouldn't be armed so there would be no 12v on the nitrous solenoid).

Someone wanna double check this for me?

[dawdaw]

Someone double check this wiring schematic I drew up.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]48247[/ATTACH]

How it works:

When you depress the clutch 12v is sent down the green wire to 85, which activates the solenoid, which gives you 12v when cranking on 30 then to 87 to use the clutch switch to start the car.
12v goes down the green to the toggle switch, when closed will provide 12v to the LED to signal the Line lock is on.
Continues to the next toggle when closed will tell the Mallory to activate 2 step.
Goes to 85 on the center relay, which activates sending 12v from the red to the pink wire which locks up the line lock.
Goes up to the top solenoid, into 85 which activates the solenoid removing the 12v from WOT switch and doesn't allow the Mallory to get Window switch 12v or the nitrous relay to have 12v to activate.

Once clutch is released it opens the relay which then allows the WOT switch to send 12v to the Mallory activating the window switch and energize the nitrous relay thus spraying off the line.

Now I want to keep the line lock for burn outs, so if I wire the push button into the green wire, open the first toggle and the toggle to the 2 step on the Mallory that will energize the line lock solenoid, kicking the line lock in, 2 step will not be active, and the WOT switch solenoid will open which will stop it from spraying (Plus the nitrous kit wouldn't be armed so there would be no 12v on the nitrous solenoid).

Someone wanna double check this for me?

When I get home ill dig threw my computer and see if I still have my schematic on mine, I'm pretty sure I do.

[Fox Slaughter]

Stopped at Terminal Supply and picked up half a dozen relays and pigtails and some extra wire.
Got home and had a package from Founders.

Adjustable Rod End LCAs baby.

DSCN0251.JPG

[erk2581]

Stopped at Terminal Supply and picked up half a dozen relays and pigtails and some extra wire.
Got home and had a package from Founders.

Adjustable Rod End LCAs baby.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]48277[/ATTACH]

Let me know how you like these. Debating what kind of ends I want. I was thinking either rod/rod or rod/poly. Both are adjustable, but I've heard complaints about lots of noise on rod/rod. Let me know how it works for you. Did you get relocation brackets as well?

[Fox Slaughter]

Let me know how you like these. Debating what kind of ends I want. I was thinking either rod/rod or rod/poly. Both are adjustable, but I've heard complaints about lots of noise on rod/rod. Let me know how it works for you. Did you get relocation brackets as well?

I have had the relocation brackets welded on my S60 direct from Strange. I sold my bolt on BMR brackets.
I currently have BMR non-adjustable poly ends in now. Will be selling those.
Never ran a rod end so we will see.
I will keep you updated when I get them on and drive with them.