1996 Camaro Z28 LT1 Project

[JoeliusZ28]

Kyle could be on to something there. Was the knock sensor desensitized in the tune? Either that or an LT4 knock module is typically necessary after adding an aggressive cam and noisy roller rockers.

[alone_and_insane]

I have zero idea if they did anything with the knock sensor. They really didn't tell me much of what they did or share any data other than what's on the graphs...

[birdie2000]

Agreed with Joel. LT4 knock module is standard fare after long tube headers and especially with the rockers you have.

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[alone_and_insane]

Is this the right one? Screenshot_20160720-140630.png

[JoeliusZ28]

Not sure the part number but it does look about like that.

Just keep in mind you can accomplish the same thing in the tune. Id talk to your tuner before you spend money you might not need to.

[alone_and_insane]

Well how would this differ from "desensitizing" the tune? If an LT4 knock module will better detect true knock than simply dumbing down the sensitivity of the calibration, i'd rather go the route of the new sensor.

Also HOLY CRAP $75 for a new ICM??? Just for that little thing???

[MP81]

Well how would this differ from "desensitizing" the tune? If an LT4 knock module will better detect true knock than simply dumbing down the sensitivity of the calibration, i'd rather go the route of the new sensor.

Also HOLY CRAP $75 for a new ICM??? Just for that little thing???

Oh yes, they're expensive.

[JoeliusZ28]

It doesnt differ other than that the module is a hardcoded chip and there is another calibration in the pcm. If you desensitize in both places it might not be capable of detecting knock. Dont ask me why GM made it adjustable in two places i have no idea... It was the 90s might have been to do with iron headed cars requiring different sensitivity but using the same pcm.

[DanDalessandro]

Also HOLY CRAP $75 for a new ICM??? Just for that little thing???

Like i said, I have my icm and coil that I dont need anymore. It's free if charge. 24x..

[alone_and_insane]

Thanks for the offer, but i want to go brand new to 100% remove all doubt

[alone_and_insane]

hokay, so...I swapped in a brand new ICM. Seems to drive fine, though it still doesn't idle very well once it's warm. I haven't opened it up on the highway to see if it fixed the ignition issues at high RPM. However, what I'm running into now is the Service Engine Soon light flashes, but when I scan the module, I don't get any codes reported. I first noticed it last Saturday driving back from Cars and Coffee in Plymouth. I was going down Hines Drive, so I never went over 45mph, and I wasn't beating on it at all. I'm not sure if it's because of the new ICM or not, because I have no idea what's causing a fault because there are no codes. Nothing really feels or sounds any different. Any thoughts?

[DanDalessandro]

Usually a flashing check engine light is a sign for misfire.
You put the heat paste on the ICM?

[alone_and_insane]

Yes, I did. Though I kind of thought there should have been more of it, I'm not sure I got the entire surface covered.

[alone_and_insane]

Looks like I haven't updated this thread in a while.

First, at the recommendation of my tuner, I replaced my spark plugs to see if it would help with the ignition issues. I had NGK TR55 plugs gapped at .050", and I swapped them out for NGK TR5 V-power plugs gapped at .040". Seems to help with idle quality when warm, but the SES light still flashes and it still breaks up at high RPM. Granted, I wasn't able to swap one of them because I couldn't get to the plug with the header in the way. I think I'll have to get it from underneath.

Otherwise, I haven't driven it in a few weeks because I was traveling for work and because I didn't like how much noise and vibration was coming from the front suspension. This weekend I got it up in the air to take a look, and here's what I found:




one of the front wheel studs was totally sheared off! More than that, a couple of the lug nuts were loose enough I could remove them by hand. I checked the other side, and that wheel had loose lugnuts as well. There were also a couple of loose castle nuts on the front ball joints, and the driver's side sway bar end link was too loose as well. Hopefully getting all this stuff straightened out will help with the suspension problems.

[DynoDave]

It can't hurt!