1996 Camaro Z28 LT1 Project

[alone_and_insane]

also, apparently all four of my O2 sensors are throwing codes. the front ones affect fuel delivery, don't they? what will happen if I delete those codes?

[meissen]

also, apparently all four of my O2 sensors are throwing codes. the front ones affect fuel delivery, don't they? what will happen if I delete those codes?

Deleting the codes won't do anything - it'll just throw the codes once the PCM detects the variables necessary to throw the code again.

[meissen]

also, apparently all four of my O2 sensors are throwing codes. the front ones affect fuel delivery, don't they? what will happen if I delete those codes?

Deleting the codes won't do anything - it'll just throw the codes once the PCM detects the variables necessary to throw the code again. What codes specifically are being thrown?

[alone_and_insane]

Deleting the codes won't do anything - it'll just throw the codes once the PCM detects the variables necessary to throw the code again. What codes specifically are being thrown?

I don't remember for sure, I think it said they weren't reading at all.

Also, i'm going to be removing my valve covers and trying to determine my valvetrain issue Saturday and/or Sunday. I've never done this before, so I would really appreciate it if somebody could stop by and walk me through it/help look for the problem once it's off.

[meissen]

I might be able to stop by after the dyno day but it's REALLY easy - don't be afraid to get your hands dirty. There's like 4 bolts that hold the valve cover on. Take 'em off while the car is off to see if there's any really apparent issues with the rocker arms - like if one is completely off of the pushrod or something. If everything looks uniform, start the car up but keep in mind you might get a bit of oil sloshed around from running with the valve covers off. At idle it shouldn't be too bad but if you rev the RPMs up a bit you'll probably get a little more splatter.

If the front O2s aren't being used at all, you'll stay in open loop and never go to closed loop.

[alone_and_insane]

I might be able to stop by after the dyno day but it's REALLY easy - don't be afraid to get your hands dirty. There's like 4 bolts that hold the valve cover on. Take 'em off while the car is off to see if there's any really apparent issues with the rocker arms - like if one is completely off of the pushrod or something. If everything looks uniform, start the car up but keep in mind you might get a bit of oil sloshed around from running with the valve covers off. At idle it shouldn't be too bad but if you rev the RPMs up a bit you'll probably get a little more splatter.

If the front O2s aren't being used at all, you'll stay in open loop and never go to closed loop.

I was really mostly concerned with what to do after I get the covers off. Also, I don't know what that open/closed loop thing means.

[meissen]

I'm not going to lie - it's a lot to read but this website is a REALLY good resource. I'd highly recommend slapping it in the favorites and reading through it from time to time - it explains a lot of information in one page. http://www.injuneer.com/ScanMast.html

[alone_and_insane]

just got the car back from the shop. had it at Aamco Transmissions on Van Dyke. Apparently both shift solenoids were broken. final tab was about $268 after the guy gave me a break on labor. he seemed like a really cool guy, he autocrosses an SVT Lightning (never been beaten by a stock Corvette--pretty good for a tow truck) and a Shelby Cobra (never been beaten by a race-modded Corvette). He also has a Mini Cooper S that he did head work on himself and is making 240 hp at the wheels. His DD is a 2008 Bullitt Mustang. I'd definitely go there again.

also, valve covers are probably coming off on Sunday so I can get my valvetrain issue figured out.

[meissen]

Really glad to hear it's getting fixed - those shift solenoids definitely set ya back a bit but it could've been a lot worse. Good luck tomorrow - be sure and post what you see.

[alone_and_insane]

took the valve covers off today. I'm pretty sure the only thing that accomplished was pissing me off. I'm pretty sure the problem is on the driver's side, but I couldn't see any difference from one side to the other. I still have no idea how to fix that valvetrain issue.

[nascarnate326]

I wish I could help you more. I think I may have a lifter or something acting goofy too. Too bad my car has crap covering the valve covers.

[alone_and_insane]

I also forgot to mention that I broke off not one, but TWO hoses. the EGR hose on the passenger side I discovered to have started falling apart. I took it off, and the one end of it pretty much crumbled to pieces. I also broke off the hose that goes from the top rear of the valve cover to the front of the engine. Does anybody have extra hoses they could give me? There's a pick-a-part yard about 12 miles from me, but I haven't heard anything good about them so far.

[98blackbeauty]

go to the dealer Buff Whallen right at 18 and vandyke. You go to junk yard for rubber hoses you get same as you got, junk.

[meissen]

Honestly rather than replace the hoses you'd be better off just deleting the EGR crap now while you're there. How bad was the passenger side hose falling apart? An exhaust leak will make a ticking noise and if the EGR hose was loose that'd be an exhaust leak.

[alone_and_insane]

Honestly rather than replace the hoses you'd be better off just deleting the EGR crap now while you're there. How bad was the passenger side hose falling apart? An exhaust leak will make a ticking noise and if the EGR hose was loose that'd be an exhaust leak.

it was just falling apart at the very end by the hose clamp. All it was doing as far as I could tell was throw a code. I could probably clamp it back on the way it is for now.

What is that tube that goes from the passenger side valve cover to the front of the engine? I'm considering just wrapping it up real tight with electrical tape and calling it good for now.