94 Formula bolt-on-a-thon

[Caveman]

so today i was going to put the pass side seat in but i decided against it because i still need to bolt some stuff to the heater delete panel like some relays, my ecu, etc. instead i figured id start the wiring process.. i dissassembled the enging compartment relay and fuse box along with the headlight switch so i could wire them the way i wanted to. today i just worked on the gauge lighting circuit and i put in my slp line lock since the wires are running in the same locations. so far ive got in my boost/vac, voltage and water temp gauges and lighting for all of them kick on when you switch the running lights on . tomorrow im going to try and get the in-cab electronics bolted to the heater delete panel so i can start working on the items that need power when the acc. switch is hit.. whats funny is running all my wires and switches is much less frustrating than just cutting all the stock stuff out.. weird huh? anyways...enjoy! more progress tomorrow!
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[Lucky SOB]

Looks great. That dash turned out perfect, I was worried when you said you were dying it.

[DETROITMUSCLE]

I agree the dash looks amazing, I'd love to do that to my interior one of these days. Also I got the clockspring today, thanks again

[Caveman]

i just about completely finished all the gauge wiring and lighting... only thing left to do with the gauges is to run the tach and speed signal wires. i hooked up all the gauges and tested the acc. power and interior lighting circuits...all the gauges fired up just fine cant wait to get all the interior together and see how it all looks..
after the gauge test went well i mounted my fast xfi and my aeromotive fuel pump controller, ran all the wires for the controller and test fired it as well. itll be a while before i start wiring the ecu so itll be looking naked for a bit. i really need to get cracking on wiring the turn signals and switch but im a little hazy with wiring the switches, relays and flashers involved with that.. ill have to go through my custom wiring book a few more times this weekend before i even take a shot at wiring them up.. i think maybe another week or so and the chasis wiring will be completely done?
anyways...i tried to get a shot of the gauges lit up with the flash off bit it turned out a little fuzzy but other than that enjoy the pix!

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[MP81]

Looks fantastic!

[Lucky SOB]

That interior is going to look amazing... I think I'm going to like how the red gauges tie in with the red seat accents and roll cage. Very tasteful and not overdone. Nice work!

[98blackbeauty]

Looks real good, try www.shbox.com for wire diagram for loor locks and power windows.

[Gottork]

love following your progress, keep up the good work..

[ITSSLOW]

Are you dying the rest of the interior panels or just the dash? Nice work by the way.

[Caveman]

All of the interior is going to be dyed black..I'm juts trying to not dye stuff until I'm ready to instal or will be ready shortly

[JoeliusZ28]

I've never heard of anyone under like 900-1000 crank hp having problems with original 2 bolt converted into 4 bolt splayed. I mean sure the true 4 bolts from the factory have a little more beef but the 2 bolt converted to 4 bolt splayed are still hella strong and should do perfectly fine

thats basically what i said? But i would agree and disagree with that assesment. Everyone on tech will think "oh, 2 bolt is holding my 900 rwhp just fine" and then wonder why they have a spun main bearing 15k miles later. It takes a ton of power to break a main cap, preventing breakage is not why I would upgrade them, but rather for stability. The harsh and constantly reversing forces there can stretch your main studs without breaking them, which will likewise affect your bearing tolerances and lead to premature bearing failure even though everything is still in tact. And it usually has alot more to do with the RPM you are turning than the power you are making at said RPM. That said, even a studded 2-bolt main holds up just fine for what most people will ever do. But I know when i build my 7500 RPM solid roller motor, its going to be a studded 4-bolt even if i dont "need" it.

OP - damn, fast xfi !! you arent messing around! everything looks awesome. very clean work on your wiring too, Ive never thought of getting a fuse block like that!

[ThreeHonks]

A 2 bolt block will hold fine in most cases, Joel basically covered what happens when they "break". I would personally trust a ARP studded 2 bolt main with a quality align bore over anything with those eagle caps. Soft chinese metals just arent a good idea, in any application.

I will be pulling a few caps this winter on my shortblock to see what shape its in. I will be re-checking the bearing clearances and thrust clearance. My motor has 3500 street miles on it with quite a few passes down the track and sees over 7000rpm on a consistent basis.

[kammi10]

just chiming in about the seatbelt thing.. i took my stock belts out and just use the harnesses.. granted it takes abit longer to get into them and out, they arnt that uncomfortable to me at least. movement is restricted but if you just leave them a tad loose i can still see about 95% of what i used to be able to

[Caveman]

thanks larry, thats going to help me out a lot...with more things than just the blinkers too...good find!

and yes, im aware of the entire stud/4 bolt discussion... im getting arp studs for the mains when im ready to start assembling the engine. and yes i know the eagle caps arnt the best but again...i dont plan on keeping this motor long..infact i expect to blow it up at the track eventualy... as joel pointed out the fast xfi (yes, i spared no expence, when it comes to stuff i plan on keeping..), as much as i wanted to mount it where it would be seen, such as the engine bay, i dont want it damaged (or at least less of a chance of damage..) when the engine goes...

with a fast xfi, complete aeromotive a1000 fuel system + controller, rci fuel cell, just about everything they make for the car suspension wise, moser 9 inch with axles and 5/8 studs, roll bars, and everything else...i hope itd be obvious that im not going to just leave the lt1 in there.. again, i already had the block, its already been bored+stroked...so i might as well put a few more $$ in it and see what shes made of

lastly...this seatbelt thing is killing me lol... i think imma go down to my local pd tomorrow or monday and see what they have to say about it... if i get a thumbs up for using just the harnesses then im going to go for it... i mean if i get too annoyed i can alwayse just put the stocks in you know

anyways..its the brother in laws 21st bday...so you guys know what that means...
ill try and get some work done tomorrow...feel like a bum, i havnt put new pictures up in like 36 hours

[JoeliusZ28]

i think you would be very surprised how competitively you can build an LT1. plenty of guys running that fast XFI on serious builds. The opti is definitely what will be holding this setup back.