94 Formula bolt-on-a-thon

[meissen]

Looks great so far! Can't wait to see it!!! Damn that frontend suspension is nice.

[kyleozzie]

thanks, i am converting my block to 4 bolt mains and just trying to see what caps to use.. like threehonks said i went to a local shop(AA) and he told me not to use those, but others say they work fine.. so not sure what i am going to do. nice build by the way!

[Caveman]

thanks, i am converting my block to 4 bolt mains and just trying to see what caps to use.. like threehonks said i went to a local shop(AA) and he told me not to use those, but others say they work fine.. so not sure what i am going to do. nice build by the way!

Yeah eventualy ill run something like scat or whatever but for now I figured I was running an eagle rotating assy so I might as well run there caps you know... Unless your weird like me you should probably buy ones from someone else like scat

[Caveman]

today im just working on figuring out some of the chasis wiring im going to be doing and how i want to run it all to switches and all that...not too exciting.. i might get the dash in today if im feeling froggy later..

as most of you know the front suspension is complete... i just have a decent alignment issue... ive got a decent amount of toe in and both wheels are facing outwards just a little... anyone on here decent at getting an alignment half way straight and would like to help me fix it? id obviously go and have an alignment done when the car is drivable but for now its just to make it a little easier pushing the car in and out of the garage when required..

[sman]

IIRC alignment is different depending on how much weight is in the car, your car with no engine is probably way off. You say theres toe in, but say the wheels are facing out, which is toe out. Which is it?

BTW, build looks awesome so far, really digging the dash.

[Caveman]

thanks. yeah i understand about the suspension being different once the engine is in it but the suspension is so stiff that the engine isnt going to correct it...i was bouncing up and down on the k member and i dont thing i got it to move but an inch maybe and im a good 220 so i dont know..
and as far as toe, i guess i mixed up my terms a little, sorry... but yes in that case it would be toe out..as in the car looks like its trying to turn left and right at the same time... ive got the steering max adjusted on both sides so its corrected as much as i could get it but its still visible..

[Caveman]

finially got my steering wheel pulled off and the last remaining wires removed so i threw the dash in and bolted it down. i was still in the mood so i figured id assemble the bottom of the seats and wound up installing the driver side and adjusting the harnesses. the seats are real tight fits though...they would normally fit nicely but the roll bars kinda take up a little room
i was going to instal the pass side harness and seat but i started getting frustrated because i couldnt find the bolts i need for the harness so i decided to just call it quits for the day....maybe tomorrow

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[JoeliusZ28]

if you want to do it right the first time, get a 4-bolt block and stud it. Any experienced engine builder will tell you this is the strongest. Splayed caps thread into an area of the block that is not designed to hold forces and often crack. But for a mild build a splayed cap will be fine just the same as even a studded 2-bolt main like ryans will.

[Caveman]

if you want to do it right the first time, get a 4-bolt block and stud it. Any experienced engine builder will tell you this is the strongest. Splayed caps thread into an area of the block that is not designed to hold forces and often crack. But for a mild build a splayed cap will be fine just the same as even a studded 2-bolt main like ryans will.

totally agreed..
as far as my scenario, i had the lt1 and the 385 kit long before i knew this much about engines so i might as well get some use out of it. at this point in time im not planning on keeping the block for long...i deff want to go the ls route but im not going to do that till i cook this motor at the track..

[meissen]

if you want to do it right the first time, get a 4-bolt block and stud it. Any experienced engine builder will tell you this is the strongest. Splayed caps thread into an area of the block that is not designed to hold forces and often crack. But for a mild build a splayed cap will be fine just the same as even a studded 2-bolt main like ryans will.

And by mild you mean like 900 crank hp right?

[JoeliusZ28]

And by mild you mean like 900 crank hp right?

come again captain?

[OIF1VET]

Is it possible to only buckle the lap belts on the street? Could you try having both in the car At the same time so u could choose?

I'm a ways behind in this thread so this may of been answered. I have the stock belts and 5 points in my car.. I tried the 5 points once, they are not for cruisin...

And OP great work by the way.. Looking forward to the finished ride!!!!

[Caveman]

I'm a ways behind in this thread so this may of been answered. I have the stock belts and 5 points in my car.. I tried the 5 points once, they are not for cruisin...

And OP great work by the way.. Looking forward to the finished ride!!!!

Thanks. Yeah I'm running both 5 point and stock..seems like it'll be a bit of a pain to do the stocks too with the roll bars and the new seats but the 5 points from rjs arnt dot approved so I don't have much of a choice. And while I was adjusting the drivers side harness, I tightened em down and yeah u totally agree..there's no way they'd be worn while cruising lol

[meissen]

come again captain?

I've never heard of anyone under like 900-1000 crank hp having problems with original 2 bolt converted into 4 bolt splayed. I mean sure the true 4 bolts from the factory have a little more beef but the 2 bolt converted to 4 bolt splayed are still hella strong and should do perfectly fine

[ITSSLOW]

Great progress as always! You'll love those AGX's. I swapped my Konis out for them and its night and day difference in ride quality.