I bought my old 93 Z28 back, now it needs some TLC

[mcalus]

Same here. 114-115 seems rather optimistic for cam only to me.

Possibly, either way I'm still a bit shy of where I should be. Joel who tuned your car?

[JoeliusZ28]

I tuned it, although I'll admit my tune was more luck than it was expertise. My first attempt at it i basically ramped up my entire VE table by a set value like 12% and it reacted quite well to that setting. Its a little off in the low RPMs, but everything else seems pretty much dead on. I don't plan on tinkering with it any more until i swap to the 24x setup.

its very possible false knock could be your issue. I bought the LT4 KM many years ago, so i didnt have to do anything with it but I believe it can be desensitized in the tune.

[birdie2000]

Finding someone local to dyno tune a 93 is going to be tough. Do you have anything to datalog with? Not sure what's available in that regard for a 93, but you could send info back and forth a few times and get the tune updated until it's where you want it.

[mcalus]

Finding someone local to dyno tune a 93 is going to be tough. Do you have anything to datalog with? Not sure what's available in that regard for a 93, but you could send info back and forth a few times and get the tune updated until it's where you want it.

Nothing to datalog with.

[mcalus]

[MENTION=3564]hoogiesngrinderz[/MENTION]

any idea? I know you know proms pretty well. Any way I can read my PCM/knock sensor? I checked my headers by the k member I can barley for my fingers between on both sides. Is this too close? I am running poly motor mounts.

[hoogiesngrinderz]

Hmm...could be too close. I know I'm getting false knock because my y-pipe is rattling one of the floor supports

As for datalogging, I use and old laptop w/ a DB9 comm port and my a 160/8192 baud adapter. TunerRT Pro is free.

[hoogiesngrinderz]

As for reading the PROM, I can do that if I buy another adapter ($15) to read the stock proms w/o cutting them up.

[mcalus]

Hmm...could be too close. I know I'm getting false knock because my y-pipe is rattling one of the floor supports

As for datalogging, I use and old laptop w/ a DB9 comm port and my a 160/8192 baud adapter. TunerRT Pro is free.

So is there any way to not create a false knock or bypass the knock sensor? Pcmforless says they do desensatize the sensors a "little bit"

Dumb down that second part about the datalogging. Where can I get what I need to data log?

[jderry]

The best slip I can find on motor is 12.31 @ 111.2 mph 1.74 60'

If you have access to a good scan tool with OBD1 capability (Tech 1 or similar generic) you should be able to monitor knock.

[mcalus]

The best slip I can find on motor is 12.31 @ 111.2 mph 1.74 60'

If you have access to a good scan tool with OBD1 capability (Tech 1 or similar generic) you should be able to monitor knock.

I know your cam is a bit bigger too. Ill have to see what they have at work. Would autozone possibly have something?

[hoogiesngrinderz]

Not likely. These old ECMs all used different data streams.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-OBD1-Scan...3ed7f5&vxp=mtr

Find a laptop with a nice battery and download TunerPro RT (I mixed up the Pro and RT earlier ) and the correct Bin & Datastream definitions http://www.tunerpro.net

Edit: PS, I've had problems with USB adapters when it comes to connecting to these older cars. Hit and miss really, so I chose to go with the old serial port setup.

[mcalus]

Awesome! Thanks for the links Michael.

Where can I get a serial port cable?

[JoeliusZ28]

USB converters have come a long way since i started doing this stuff too. When i started doing this stuff i would have agreed with Michael on using a serial based connection, but lately ive actually had more stable experiences with the USB adapter. Of course, it all depends which serial and which USB adapter you are comparing, but if the stuff is only a few bucks it might not hurt to grab one of each just in case.

[NullHead]

See, I picked up a USB cable from OBDcable.com or something like that, and haven't gotten that thing to work ever. Even on three different cars, my 85 Fiero, my 89 Silverado and my 91 Firebird. None of them worked with that OBD1>USB cable. I'm thinking of picking up an OBD1>serial+USB adapter.

[hoogiesngrinderz]

I tried my RS232 (serial) OBDI with a USB to RS232 adapter and was batting about .400 with it.

The key to get them to work is software/hardware setup. You need to get the USB port to be ported to the COM1 or COM2 port (some software allows COM3 or COM4) and allow the baud (transfer rate) to be set low. USB seems to have a hard time slowing itself down to sync with the slow transmission of data from OBDI cars.

Come to think of it, I don't think I ever got USB to work with 160 baud cars, only 50/50 with 8192 baud.

http://www.aldlcable.com/sc/details.asp?item=aldlobd1

I don't remember where I got mine from. It has 4 pins (no OBDI 12 pin connector) so I can easily move from Pin E to Pin M protocols (or Lotus if ever need be) and is port powered, no need for the cigarette power plug.