I bought my old 93 Z28 back, now it needs some TLC

[sman]

Haha yeah but in 5 years when you're replacing your rusted out pacesetters, you can spend more money again to do nothing to make your next set fit while the 30minutes of work to get the cheapo ebay ones to fit will still be rust free.

I agree that they will last longer. But my pacesetters are like 7 or 8 years old and from the flange to the just before the collectors there is no rust and there still shiny. Theres a some small spots of rust starting to show on the bottoms of the collectors, but it appears to be just where they scraped on the ground. I think people way over exaggerate how quickly ceramic coating fails.

[meissen]

I agree ceramic will last longer than painted.

[nascarnate326]

I think people way over exaggerate how quickly ceramic coating fails.

I agree.

Thing is, headers for LT1's on eBay come and go, pacesetter has been reliable.

[mcalus]

The motor is out.
I choose to take my chances.
So far, chances are in my favor.

[sman]

The motor is out.
I choose to take my chances.
So far, chances are in my favor.

Thats fine, no one is arguing against you (that I know of), were just jacking your thread and having a debate, lol.

Build is coming along nicely, I know I dont post in here much, but every time its bumped I always pop in and at least check on it. Its attention to detail (all the painting and polishing) that really makes a car look good. Cant wait to see it done!

[mcalus]

Im just voicing my side of the debate

I appreciate y'all checking it out. You and the others are the people that keep me carrying on with the build. I figured I lost quit a bit of viewers when I let the car sit untouched for quite sometime. So I thank you and the others for the support!

She us pretty much buttoned up.
The hb bolt should be in Wednesday, I'm about to order some arp header bolts. I gotta route the wires as best as possible.
We installed the new starter, wires, ps pump and new tensioner.

Next is ordering the trans kit. How much easier would it be to do springs and shocks now vs when the k is back in? What is my best bang for buck setup?

[98blackbeauty]

well its a little easier now, you already have 2 of the 4 top bolts out. Just take the 2 bottom bolts out and you'll have the whole shock/spring assembly in your hands. If you do it after k frame in the car your doing it all over again, kinda.

[Lucky SOB]

Definitely easier now if the master cylinder setup is anything like the LS1 cars... I'd like to have a talk with the engineer that put that thing right above the bolts for the shock mount

I think Eibach has the cheapest springs right now, but really just depends on what stance you want if that's what you're after. As far as shocks go, most people recommend Bilsteins for all around driving, but if you're on a budget and just want something to get you through a couple years until you build more of the car, then I would recommend the Monroe Sensa-Tracs. I have had them on my TA for 5k miles and they've been fine. I sometimes wish they were a bit stiffer so I could carry people in the back seat without the tire hitting, but for cruising ride quality, they're perfect. I just don't carry more than 1 other person anymore

Also, PLEASE paint as much of your k-member, spindles, a-arms etc with POR-15 or Chassis Saver while the cradle is out. You'll be glad you did! It looks sooo much better and you're engine already looks mint. I just hate seeing it on that Nasty k-member

[mcalus]

Yeah the master cylinder needs to be unbolted to get the other 2 shock tower bolts
How much did the monroes run you? Good thing I don't have any back seats and I plan on rolling my rear quarters before the body work.

As for stance I really like the way the "STi killer" from GM high tech performance, sits.

[Lucky SOB]

The Monroes are like $40-50 per shock as I remember (for the rear at least). I think I had the fronts quoted at $80-90 per shock and decided to just re-use what I had as they were replaced by the previous owner 5k miles earlier, but appeared to be Monroes as well.

Happy reading...

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...e/viewall.html

[Lucky SOB]

If you can deal with reading LS1tech

This thread has A LOT of different setups with different stances... enjoy

http://ls1tech.com/forums/appearance...uote-pics.html

[mcalus]

Wow thank you for the links Fred!

I didnt realize how cheap the springs are.
-fronts
http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=p...&productid=292

Rears are same cost but you save $10 buying both.

Again, thank you!

[Lucky SOB]

Wow thank you for the links Fred!

I didnt realize how cheap the springs are.
-fronts
http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=p...&productid=292

Rears are same cost but you save $10 buying both.

Again, thank you!

Happy to help! I spent HOURS researching before I decided on Stranos, and still wasn't satisfied when I installed them. Ended up ripping the rears back out and adding heater hose to both the top and bottom coils (sat too low/flush for my liking) while still leaving the isolators in place. I firmly believe in leaving the isolator in place and ordering the correct spring. That thing was designed by engineers to absorb an uneven load from the spring and evenly load the structure of the car.

What tires will you be going with on the ZR1s? That will play into things as well.

[JoeliusZ28]

Haha yeah but in 5 years when you're replacing your rusted out pacesetters, you can spend more money again to do nothing to make your next set fit while the 30minutes of work to get the cheapo ebay ones to fit will still be rust free.

Got 7 years on my ceramic pacesetters now and there is barely any surface rust. Looking from afar you would see none.

[mcalus]

Happy to help! I spent HOURS researching before I decided on Stranos, and still wasn't satisfied when I installed them. Ended up ripping the rears back out and adding heater hose to both the top and bottom coils (sat too low/flush for my liking) while still leaving the isolators in place. I firmly believe in leaving the isolator in place and ordering the correct spring. That thing was designed by engineers to absorb an uneven load from the spring and evenly load the structure of the car.

What tires will you be going with on the ZR1s? That will play into things as well.

Brand wise, I'm unsure. I'd like to run a set of 315's out back and at some point I'll pick up a extra set of wheels for the rear and a set of drs.