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I bought my old 93 Z28 back, now it needs some TLC

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  • nascarnate326
    replied
    I ment paint it the PPM color and just have a hood/ SS car in an unusual color.

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  • mcalus
    replied
    Originally posted by white97z28 View Post
    Silver 35th stripes!! I always thought it would look awesome to do a front end swap on my purple car and put the 35th stripes on it in silver!
    Ew lol. Way to gaudy.

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  • white97z28
    replied
    Silver 35th stripes!! I always thought it would look awesome to do a front end swap on my purple car and put the 35th stripes on it in silver!

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  • mcalus
    replied
    I still plan on painting a set (4) of the 8 10 spokes I have, black. I know many people frown upon black wheels but I love them.

    I also plan on painting around my fog lights gloss black when I find a new bumper.

    And I don't know of a color that would go well with purple other than black. Maybe a charcoal but even then it's just going to make the purple that much more purple. If I did black at least it would tie in with other things.

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  • 93formulalt1
    replied
    Originally posted by nascarnate326 View Post
    Im going to say no to the gloss black manta.

    Because of the color of your car, I would go with a real clean look in an unusual color.
    Agreed. Hard to say which color I'd go with, but I would choose something more subtle than gloss black.

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  • nascarnate326
    replied
    Im going to say no to the gloss black manta.

    Because of the color of your car, I would go with a real clean look in an unusual color.

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  • meissen
    replied
    That will look awesome.

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  • alone_and_insane
    replied
    gloss black Manta would be a good choice.

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  • mcalus
    replied
    As most of you probably saw on Facebook or the daily chit chat thread. I basically stole a true ss hood and 96 & 97 ss spoiler.

    I'll probably end up selling the spoiler (what are they going for? )

    The hood will be getting stripped, primed, blocked and painted. Should I do a gloss black manta?






    Last edited by mcalus; July 9th, 2014, 11:28 AM.

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  • JoeliusZ28
    replied
    I had a digital tach in the pillar with a shift light but i got rid of that and got a column mounted one. Both of them just had a signal wire i ran to the pcm.

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  • jetice
    replied
    A lot of them need an aftermarket tachometer. Here is a wiring diagram.
    guide-13500-01.jpg

    I also know that [MENTION=254]JoeliusZ28[/MENTION] has one hooked up without a tach, although it might be a standalone unit.

    Leave a comment:


  • mcalus
    replied
    Awhile back i bought a pillar and a pod along with this shift light. I was mainly buying the pillar and pod but I was wondering if I could use this shift light? Seems like I need to hook it up to something else as well as to tell it when to turn on (at so an so rpms).

    http://www.jegs.com/i/Auto+Meter/105...FWQQ7Aodwz8A1A

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  • birdie2000
    replied
    I'm not very familiar with all the different measurements and such so I'd definitely consult with your engine builder about it and make sure those are the exact part #s you want. That said, those are very good choices of parts IMO, bordering on expensive. Do some research on camaroz28.com, there were a ton of FI LT1 guys on there back in the day and a couple hours searching old posts would give you a wealth of information. Maybe even ask around on LTxtech as well, there are a few knowledgeable guys running around.

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  • mcalus
    replied
    Originally posted by birdie2000 View Post
    Yeah, I mainly suggest the 24x for tuning options. You can make the opti work, but tuning options are sparse for LT1s these days (especially 93's) and you definitely want a dyno/street tune vs. mail-order. Plus, they're just flat out more reliable.

    For those goals you'd probably be fine with a stock crank. General consensus is that they're pretty stout around that power level, but more than that and I'd start considering forged options. Rods I'd go with 4340 SCAT or Compstar H-beams for something budget-friendly and keep it at 5.7" rod length. Pistons I wouldn't skimp out on. Pay the extra money and get a good piston designed for forced induction, preferably 2618 aluminum. I'd probably go with a 24cc dished piston so you can keep your head choices open and still have a decent compression ratio. Use studs throughout the engine and use ARP2000 rod bolts. Never used L19 rod bolts myself but I've heard that L19 is a pain to handle and it's not necessary for what you want. Also, some may disagree, but I'd also get a 4-bolt main conversion done too.




    I think I'm going with these rods. Everything seem okay with them?
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cpi-a5700cs2a2ah

    And these pistons
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/jep-131636-8


    How about bearings?
    [MENTION=1248]birdie2000[/MENTION]
    Last edited by mcalus; June 20th, 2014, 08:55 PM.

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  • 98blackbeauty
    replied
    your not that far from doing it right to start with forged pistons rods and crank, 4 bolt mains inline bore on mains. Then you have a good base not half a$$ together. anything you do from there can be done without pullin the motor. If you go the other route and through a rod or spin a bearing your now into more cost rod could go through the block etc etc.

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