Welcome to the Michigan FBody Association website.
The Michigan FBody Association is a centralized website for FBody enthusiasts to discuss what's going on in the Michigan area. MiFbody.com was created to allow for an easy one-stop place to find out what's going on in Michigan as far as FBody events, to find out what clubs are available in your immediate area, and for an easy place to post classifieds for items you want to sell! Our goal was to create a more close-knit community of FBody enthusiasts in the state of Michigan, and to bring Camaro and Firebird enthusiasts alike together for some amazing FBody events!
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I also wont be doing the trap door when mine quits. I can have the rear axle out in less than an hour, then i just have the tank to drop - which i want to drop so i can POR15 up in there anyway.
The trap door people are not thinking about the fumes that could come in through the trap door not sealed good when you have a cut out.
Much safer to drop tank, a little more work but far safer in the long run. IMHO.
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1998 Trans Am Convertible A4 - WS6 hood, WS6 air lid, WS6 rims, drilled/slotted rotors.
I have absolutely zero fumes, use some rtv and screw on a nice sheetmetal plate and its just like it never happened, ok I am seriously done plugging the trap door. Do it how you want
The trap door people are not thinking about the fumes that could come in through the trap door not sealed good when you have a cut out.
Much safer to drop tank, a little more work but far safer in the long run. IMHO.
I did the trap door on my Trans Am. Thankfully because when I switched over to dual intank pumps it was a breeze! Also I had dual cutouts on the car and never had an issue. If you guys don't mind doing the extra work then go right ahead but I would do the trap door over and over again.... it just makes sense.
says the guy who notched out a section of his engine bay for a blower pulley........ It's not like it's removing any rigidity or destroying the car. Can look factory if you do it right.
I just hit it with a hammer. And it looks just fine, since it's primed and painted the factory color...
So it should be no big deal then to cut out an access panel that hides under the carpet and reseal it along with adding bolts to easily remove in a future time right?
With some silicone it is 100% sealed. But hey drop the tank if you want. If you have to get at the pump again for any reason I'm sure you will be wishing you had done it.
Last edited by c0ncEpT; July 16th, 2009, 04:19 PM.
Hey Brian thanks for the head up on the tool used to get your bump stop bolts out! I went straight there got the tool and had no problem installing my bump stops! I have already noticed a big difference I made my brothers get in the car so I had 4 ppl in there and didnt slam my ass once! Thanks man!
As an actual update to the rebuild progress - I just ordered my triple gauge pod A-pillar, 100psi fuel pressure gauge, trans temp gauge, and vacuum gauge. Now I just need to order the LC-1 wideband.
Last edited by meissen; July 16th, 2009, 05:33 PM.
The trap door people are not thinking about the fumes that could come in through the trap door not sealed good when you have a cut out.
Much safer to drop tank, a little more work but far safer in the long run. IMHO.
coming from someone who has clearly never made a trap door and sealed it good. I did it on my old car and had 0 problems, fumes, anything. Just put RTV on it and put a nice piece of sheet metal on top with some screws and its good as new. The tank fits so close to where you are cutting you can tell there is no way anything is getting up in there that would cause any sort of harm. Let alone fumes once its sealed.
Its funny to see the naysayers who think taking an hour or two to drop the rear end is no big deal. When in reality it should take 10 minutes to cut the trap door and have easy access forever. Show me someone who did the trap door and regrets it, then maybe I'll start to second guess, but I'd bet a pretty penny you wont find such a person.
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