anyone have lpp headers on lt1

[mikek18]

Does anyone here have lpp headers on an lt1? If so can you give some insight as to how the heck you got them on. mine are hitting the kmember.

[meissen]

You have to grind a little bit of the kmember down to get them to fit if they hit the k-member. Transamsfast is the only one that I know of on here that already had his installed but he said his went on with no problems at all. It's hit or miss, some have an issue some don't.

[mikek18]

seems wierd that they fit different. Glad they decided to redesign them. lol

[Phantom409]

From what I have found the LS guys don't have a problem.

I have 2 primary's hitting the K-Memeber on the Passenger side and I need to close a 1/4 gap up.
The more I try the more they hit and if Mike raps on his car at all it will need a 1/2 - 5/8ths min. clearance.

I just don't know how much I can cut out of the K-Memeber and not hurt the integrity of the car.

The most radical I have found with these are having to cut the stearing and elongating holes and welding in a 1/2" in the stearing shaft for the drivers side to clear the #1 primary.

Passenger side is the K-member mostly but I had a hell of a time getting the passenger one in and it's the only one that's in right now.

If I can get any insight on how to make these things fit it would be great.

[WMCC Gary]

If it was mine I'd send them back before hacking on the car.

[meissen]

Search in the LPP Header thread on LS1Tech. They talked about it in there. IMHO, $550 for a stainless steel longtube & y-pipe setup is not bad at all for a few fitment issues - not to mention that the fitment is no better than Kooks.

[Phantom409]

My Hookers slid right in, no problem, no cutting and I did them in a car port.

IMO B, if your going to pay good money for something you better not have to cut up your car & it better fit & work.
Stainless is nice but if it don't work it's crap!

[meissen]

For the price, it seems perfectly fine to me to have to do some work to get it to fit. Better than paying twice as much for Kooks.

[mikek18]

I can get pacesetters for the same price or hookers for a few bucks more. seems like they would at least explain what needs to be done when you buy them. i just went with these because they are stainless and got good reviews on here. Well see what happens

[meissen]

true, but pacesetters and hookers aren't stainless are they? I dunno, maybe I'm being too forgiving? It's their first batch and for the price to get stainless steel stepped headers..

[mikek18]

I agree, Id love to make them work.

[Phantom409]

I haven't had a call from LPP either

[s.reef]

whend you call? Its only one guy

[Phantom409]

E-mail, he only has e-mail, no phone

It was about 11ish.

[Phantom409]

This is from CZ28 and a guy named WRD1972:

My LPP headers for the LT1 review.

Got my LPP headers installed and wrapped up. I installed dual Pypes mini cats on the y-pipe too. My motor would pin you at 3.5K RPM with RK Sport mid tubes. With these headers the motor will pin you just under 3K RPM. Low to mid power band improvement with these headers is off the charts awesome. Power up top is better as well not to mention the much wider power band.

I highly recommend these headers but be advised they are not a straight up, just bolt them in, get them on in just one day install. Of course what LT1 headers are? My old RK sports were a big time PITA too. They require some patience, creativity and a lot of foul language to properly install. The quality of the pipes and the welds are top knotch. Even the flange bolt holes line up perfectly and required no tweaking to easily run the bolts in without binding up. The slip fit collectors are totaly leak free too and those 1 7/8 primaries stepped primaries are huge.

Here are the mods I had to do to ensure they went in without clearance issues.
1. Elongate the bolt holes in the firewall and relocate the steering column as far to the driver side as it to better clear the #1 primary.
2. Elongate the slot in the fixed steering shaft to accommodate the lengthened jointed steering shaft.
3. Cut then lengthen the jointed steering shaft by 1/2" then weld it up to properly reach the now relocated steering column.
4. Beat in a 3" area of the sheet metal unibody on the passenger side with a BFH to better clear the #8 primary.
5. Did some grinding on the rear passenger side corner of the k-member to better clear the primaries.
6. Slightly re-bend the right side y-pipe to better align with the catback.

BTW both headers installed through the bottom without having to touch the motor mounts. Plug access is decent with #2 being the hardest one to reach. My headers did have the end hole slots in the flanges which are there to make it easier to install the headers solo. I see no ill benefits from them considering the flanges are very thick. They certainly help out in allowing the header to hang without falling out so you can go up top and run the bolts in. Bolt access is decent too compared to my old mid-tubes. I used stage 8 double hex locking bolts which allows for sockets or Allen wrenches to be used in tricky tight places. Another big plus is the dipstick tube required very little re-bending to allow it to easily be reinstalled once the right side header is attached. You will also need a single 12" O2 extension for the right side O2 sensor.

Certainly did not mind the glitches considering the price. Plus they arrived three days after placing the order in a big ass WELL packed box. Comes with quality gaskets, three band clamps and a mounting bracket assembly too.

Now that I have several hours of driving on them, the shiny silver finish has turned more of a bronze color which is normal for stainless and looks equally good. Also because of modding as described above, I have no pipes banging against stuff or funky vibrations from chassis contact like under the driver side floorboard which is a bit tight. Ground clearance is decent too. I have yet to bang a pipe even over large speed bumps at work.

Once LPP gets these fitment bugs worked out, these will be the most bad ass f-body headers available again considering the price. It is understandable that issues like this can happen when new products are brought to the market and everyone here knows that header install is not an exact science like bolting on a set of heads. I applaud LPP for producing a product that in terms of specs and design is ridiculously cheaper than the closest comparable product.