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Yes it does, I stated that I took the plates off and re did them. That was an old pic. They are surely sealed now. And believe it or not, that was torqued down tight in that pic. I just used that as a reference to what I did.
Um that vacuum port on the passenger size is needed for the fuel pressure regulator.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]41018[/ATTACH]
Courtesy of Shbox.
Oh SHIT! I could have sworn that bottom line went to that HVAC tee thingy and the top one routed to the regulator, as it is on my car. It's clearly visible in the pic of the block-off plate. So maybe I should swap the hose with the bottom outlet?!? Dont they both do the same thing, do you think one port will have a different affect than the other??There like a 1/2" apart. If it matters then Im about to feel like a total dumbass. Im gonna go switch them right now.. ill brb lol.
If you just took the line that's going to your HVAC and put it in the line above, that's perfectly fine. What TJ was saying was that if you infact pulled out the BOTTOM line then you pulled the fuel pressure regulator rather than the HVAC line.
Edit: Looking at the pics again it looks like you do have the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line conected.
If you just took the line that's going to your HVAC and put it in the line above, that's perfectly fine. What TJ was saying was that if you infact pulled out the BOTTOM line then you pulled the fuel pressure regulator rather than the HVAC line.
Edit: Looking at the pics again it looks like you do have the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line conected.
Yeah the fuel regulator line is definitely connected. I have to jump it real quick cause the batt is dead. But while it was cranking it didnt want to start. But either way, I dont think one port or the other is going to make a difference. It'd be nice though if it did.
Pacesetter LT's, Pacesetter ORY, full MSD ign., 2 step, rear LCA's, SFC's, B&M Ripper, poly motor mounts, Nitto NT05R's, WS6 wheels, KYB AGX adj. suspension, Eibach Sprotline springs, Trickflow elbow w/K&N, All HVAC deleted w/ delete panel, no AIR, No EGR
Did you pull out or disconnect the EVAP canister? Also, check the elbow on the TB that feeds the purge solenoid. They rot out and cause vacuum leaks, you can actually use a 90* spark plug wire boot to fix it
Fuel pressure is controlled by vacuum. At key on, car off it should be around ~44psi. Drop 3 - 7psi while idling. The problem is that why is the PSI climbing to 50psi?
A min is not enough time to heat up the o2 sensors and the car would be running in Open Loop.
Originally posted by Yoshi94
Mines about an inch bigger than Kyles. I need to get one of those
Originally posted by ryanwarby01
Put it this way, if you have a money tree a LT1 is a wood chipper!
The car starts to idle erratically before the fuel pressure starts to climb. I would say as a result of the engine dieing, fuel is not being used and its just excess pressure. I would guess they arent related. In that video, was that a cold start? Like it has been sitting for 40 min or more, or it had be previously running recently. If it had been running recently, then its very possible that it reached closed loop. If it did, it could point to o2 sensors among other things.
Fuel pressure is controlled by vacuum. At key on, car off it should be around ~44psi. Drop 3 - 7psi while idling. The problem is that why is the PSI climbing to 50psi?
A min is not enough time to heat up the o2 sensors and the car would be running in Open Loop.
Exactly my thoughts. The evap canister is good, never touched it, but just checked anyway. What I need to figure out is what would make it spike in pressure? Never did this till the EGR was removed, so that's why I'm focusing on that. The regulator is hooked up, I never unhooked it. But I just swapped the lines for the hell of it. It seems as if the regulator just isn't regulating. Just pushing fuel like it's at WOT(50ish psi)all the time. And yeah, open loop wouldn't happen for a few minutes at least. That is what Larry Meissen was thinking it was. It makes since, but I don't think it's the case... unless the computers being tricked into THINKING it's in open loop?!?
Pacesetter LT's, Pacesetter ORY, full MSD ign., 2 step, rear LCA's, SFC's, B&M Ripper, poly motor mounts, Nitto NT05R's, WS6 wheels, KYB AGX adj. suspension, Eibach Sprotline springs, Trickflow elbow w/K&N, All HVAC deleted w/ delete panel, no AIR, No EGR
Like I said, has the car been running recently? They can switch to closed loop in a matter of seconds if they were up to temp already.
Closed loop is what I was referring to, sorry. No, the car has not been running and was for sure cold. It hasnt ran for more than a minute for a few weeks now. I just tried to start it and it's just getting worse. Cranked for about 30 secs and finally fired but struggled to run the whole time. I had to continuously feather it and the second I stopped it died.. honestly, it acts like it's out of gas, due to the fact that it's getting worse. but it's not(it's at 1/4 tank). Just saying. Still wouldn't explain the spike in pressure. I'm getting so irritated by this. This car has never once given me an issue with running/performing! Now i pull the EGR and it's acting like its on its last leg.
Pacesetter LT's, Pacesetter ORY, full MSD ign., 2 step, rear LCA's, SFC's, B&M Ripper, poly motor mounts, Nitto NT05R's, WS6 wheels, KYB AGX adj. suspension, Eibach Sprotline springs, Trickflow elbow w/K&N, All HVAC deleted w/ delete panel, no AIR, No EGR
Well i gotta get ready for work(graveyard shift). I really appreciate all your help. I feel like a pita right now, but I just cant figure this out. I'm going to put 5 gallons of gas in it tomorrow just to cancel out the possibility of low fuel, so please check back on this tomorrow and hopefully I can get this resolved. Thanks a ton!
Justin
Pacesetter LT's, Pacesetter ORY, full MSD ign., 2 step, rear LCA's, SFC's, B&M Ripper, poly motor mounts, Nitto NT05R's, WS6 wheels, KYB AGX adj. suspension, Eibach Sprotline springs, Trickflow elbow w/K&N, All HVAC deleted w/ delete panel, no AIR, No EGR
Make sure your Maf is plugged in. Do you have a Lap top? at this time need to data log what is going on with engine, best way to trouble shoot, will take guess work out of it. There are free programs you can down load but you'll need a cable from obd to pc.
If car was running fine why did you take egr off? did you delete AIR as well? One thing you did not send is picture of EGR tube that connects to exhaust man on passender side, you sent pic of tube but I mean where tube connects to exhaust manafold.
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1998 Trans Am Convertible A4 - WS6 hood, WS6 air lid, WS6 rims, drilled/slotted rotors.
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