Welcome to the Michigan FBody Association website.
The Michigan FBody Association is a centralized website for FBody enthusiasts to discuss what's going on in the Michigan area. MiFbody.com was created to allow for an easy one-stop place to find out what's going on in Michigan as far as FBody events, to find out what clubs are available in your immediate area, and for an easy place to post classifieds for items you want to sell! Our goal was to create a more close-knit community of FBody enthusiasts in the state of Michigan, and to bring Camaro and Firebird enthusiasts alike together for some amazing FBody events!
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That's what I said like 20 posts ago! Forget the fuel pressure!
Sounds like your on the right track, would be really helpful to see a data log tho.
haha, dude i never even seen that. I'm gonna data log it at some point. just have to get the cable and what not.
One more thing though.. last week my parking lamps would not shut off unless i disconnected the batt. this was after i re-installed my dash. I played with the BCM and some relays(unplugged then plugged back in) and they worked fine again.
Could the BCM cause an issue like this?
Pacesetter LT's, Pacesetter ORY, full MSD ign., 2 step, rear LCA's, SFC's, B&M Ripper, poly motor mounts, Nitto NT05R's, WS6 wheels, KYB AGX adj. suspension, Eibach Sprotline springs, Trickflow elbow w/K&N, All HVAC deleted w/ delete panel, no AIR, No EGR
I'm going to buy an ALDL cable to get some data logging. From what i see, they don't make a cable for 96+ OBDII cars, like they do for pre-96, but they have that allinone scan tool at: http://www.obd2allinone.com/. This is what everything seems to point to for 96+ cars for data logging. Is this what I need, or is there a better deal? Thanks guys.
Pacesetter LT's, Pacesetter ORY, full MSD ign., 2 step, rear LCA's, SFC's, B&M Ripper, poly motor mounts, Nitto NT05R's, WS6 wheels, KYB AGX adj. suspension, Eibach Sprotline springs, Trickflow elbow w/K&N, All HVAC deleted w/ delete panel, no AIR, No EGR
Just thought of this today not sure if it was mentioned previously but the reason your fuel pressure is going to 50 psi is because the engine is loosing vacuum. The fuel pressure regulator is vacuum controlled and when it senses the loss in vacuum it dumps more fuel in the car thinking you're going wide open throttle (which causes vacuum loss since your throttle blades are wide open to suck in all that air). I would believe, but not 100% sure, that you're going to loose vacuum as the car is struggling to stay idling - so the 50# fuel pressure is just an effect of the vacuum loss, not a cause.
Did anyone notice how fast the fuel pressure bleeds off after the engine dies? My 97 will hold fuel pressure after I shut it off (as it should)
97 30th anv Z28 Lt1 Ported Heads and Intake, small Cam, LT's, SLP LM1 w/power flow conversion and cut out, Stalled A4, 3.73, 125 shot or so......... Custom EVI Tune and more to come...... SOLD
1971 Suburban work in progress
1969 Mach 1 In restoration process
Waiting to find the right Fbody
Just thought of this today not sure if it was mentioned previously but the reason your fuel pressure is going to 50 psi is because the engine is loosing vacuum. The fuel pressure regulator is vacuum controlled and when it senses the loss in vacuum it dumps more fuel in the car thinking you're going wide open throttle (which causes vacuum loss since your throttle blades are wide open to suck in all that air). I would believe, but not 100% sure, that you're going to loose vacuum as the car is struggling to stay idling - so the 50# fuel pressure is just an effect of the vacuum loss, not a cause.
I agree with you 100%. I'm looking more into the ICM or other routes(hope to God it's not the opti) rather than fuel. I noticed that the fuel always reprimes once the engine dies so that is pretty much what it is doing when it starts dying. I have an ECM coming in the mail as we speak. Is there a way to tell 100% if it's the opti? I did spill a lot of antifreeze when i ditched the HVAC heater hoses. Didn't think any got on the opti but starting to wonder now. Really considering buying a OBD1 PCM and converting for the ease of datalogging(96+ are a b****).
Pacesetter LT's, Pacesetter ORY, full MSD ign., 2 step, rear LCA's, SFC's, B&M Ripper, poly motor mounts, Nitto NT05R's, WS6 wheels, KYB AGX adj. suspension, Eibach Sprotline springs, Trickflow elbow w/K&N, All HVAC deleted w/ delete panel, no AIR, No EGR
I can datalog OBD2 with my Evo4G phone, cost me 16 bucks. There are a ton of way to get it done w/o spending over $100
Dude! Let me in on the secret. I have a Samsung Galaxy S2, I'm sure that will work too. Do you have a part number on the cable? 96+OBD2 is way different than 94-95 OBD2 "compatible". I'm seriously desperate for information right now.
Pacesetter LT's, Pacesetter ORY, full MSD ign., 2 step, rear LCA's, SFC's, B&M Ripper, poly motor mounts, Nitto NT05R's, WS6 wheels, KYB AGX adj. suspension, Eibach Sprotline springs, Trickflow elbow w/K&N, All HVAC deleted w/ delete panel, no AIR, No EGR
Dude! Let me in on the secret. I have a Samsung Galaxy S2, I'm sure that will work too. Do you have a part number on the cable? 96+OBD2 is way different than 94-95 OBD2 "compatible". I'm seriously desperate for information right now.
Unbelievable! I went out to try to start it today to run some codes with my scanner, and it fired right up, Revved perfect and real responsive like always! I could not believe it. That's not all though. The scanner threw a MAF or VAF code, an EGR code(obviously), and some interior accessories code. So I cleared the codes. Shortly after, the car died. However, I noticed that when it died, the fuel pump continued to whine for almost 30secs. So i shut the key off and turned it back on, the pump never made the loud prime noise like usual, just had a less noticeable whine for about 30secs again, then shut off and came right back on for about 30 more seconds. This was with the car off and key on. Weird though because it ran great before it died. I have a feeling that damn fuel pump is going again! I just put one in there a little over a year ago.. a walbro 255lph.
It did smell like gas outside my engine though. You think it could be a leak, or does is sound like the pump is going?? I have video of all of this if anyone needs to see it. I'm doing a damn documentary on this POS lol
Pacesetter LT's, Pacesetter ORY, full MSD ign., 2 step, rear LCA's, SFC's, B&M Ripper, poly motor mounts, Nitto NT05R's, WS6 wheels, KYB AGX adj. suspension, Eibach Sprotline springs, Trickflow elbow w/K&N, All HVAC deleted w/ delete panel, no AIR, No EGR
Do you have a MAF plugged in? If it is plugged in, I'd be concentrating on why would it throw a MAF code. If you don't have a MAF plugged in and it's a stock tune, well that's going to cause your car to run like poop.
Latest update on this..Brian, you might as well change this to a build thread, because that's what it's turning into.. seriously.
SO among talking to a few real knowlegeable LT1 guys, I have come to the conclusion that the whole problem with my car is the deletion of the EGR. On OBD2 systems, if the EGR is not tuned out, the car will fall on it's face when gas is applied, as mine does. OBD1 is totally different! SO i sent my PCM to PCMFORLESS.com to have it all tuned. SO here is what I have done so far since this started:
Purchased Pacesetter LT headers, Fel-pro steel laminate gaskets, and locking header bolts.
New MSD coil, and new ICM
New MSD 8.5mm plug wires
Bosch Iridium plugs
pcmforless tune(waiting on PCM return)
160 thermostat
polished fuel rails, and top of intake
so once the pcm comes back(pry monday), Im putting it all together.
and thanks to Kammi, those headers look great now that they're sanded and cleaned up. well worth the money! You were right
Oh, and does anyone have an aftermarket ORY for those LT's?? I need one bad!
Pacesetter LT's, Pacesetter ORY, full MSD ign., 2 step, rear LCA's, SFC's, B&M Ripper, poly motor mounts, Nitto NT05R's, WS6 wheels, KYB AGX adj. suspension, Eibach Sprotline springs, Trickflow elbow w/K&N, All HVAC deleted w/ delete panel, no AIR, No EGR
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