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Agree with Todd. Once it warms up it should go away because the oil would have gotten to it.
Also, you have to replace all the lifters at once. With the flat tappets they get a wear pattern in them or something. All the old school people at Murrays kept telling me that when I was rebuilding my engine and then one of them was all "He's got roller lifters..."
lifter chatter is more typical when cold and usually dissipates when warmed up - unless you messed up a valve
are your sure you didnt just develop an exhaust leak?
Its definatley not an exhaust leak. I took a scewdriver and held it to my valve cover and the tapping is definatly coming from the left side valve cover.
So I will be replacing all the lifters this week. Since its a 1974 engine how do I go about installing the lifters.
The noise is not there on startup, the tapping starts when the engine is hot which is why I am wondering if I did something else to the valvetrain.
It could be a wrist pin in one of the pistons, that would associate more to the hot symptom. At this point before anything is done I would drain my oil and change filter maybe open filter for inspection of metal particles. If thats good I would proceed with lifters. Keeping in mind you may have worn a lob on the cam and thats giving you the sound. It only take a few thousands to do that. If your lucky you might be able to adj valve lash and get ride of it. At some point your headed for more work if thats the case.
sigpic
1998 Trans Am Convertible A4 - WS6 hood, WS6 air lid, WS6 rims, drilled/slotted rotors.
I thought that my valves had zero valve lash on them.
Edit: I should also mention that the tapping noise started probably 3 weeks ago but I thought it was a exhaust leak cause at the time my exhaust had many leaks, So my guess is I did more damage to the engine... I have the valve cover pulled off right now.
Last edited by Blue_Thunder; June 15th, 2009, 01:35 PM.
Agree with Todd. Once it warms up it should go away because the oil would have gotten to it.
Also, you have to replace all the lifters at once. With the flat tappets they get a wear pattern in them or something. All the old school people at Murrays kept telling me that when I was rebuilding my engine and then one of them was all "He's got roller lifters..."
damn thats right he doesnt have rollers, Yeah i'd replace them all lol
No noise with a cold engine, Its only tapping when its warm, I don't think its a wrist pin cause that would make noise all the time.
Well I have no specs on setting valve lash or anything, 1974 impala 350. If anyone would like t come over and help I would greatly appreciate it
Just seems weird that it's only when it's warm - that's when the oil would have gotten up into the push rods and rockers and the oil should be lubricating everything.
Just seems weird that it's only when it's warm - that's when the oil would have gotten up into the push rods and rockers and the oil should be lubricating everything.
keep in mind all metals expand when hot and contract when cold. but you have different metals involved. Block cast iron pistons maybe alem, cam steel, etc.
sigpic
1998 Trans Am Convertible A4 - WS6 hood, WS6 air lid, WS6 rims, drilled/slotted rotors.
I wouldn't worry too much about running an old school SBC 2 quarts low as long as you weren't beating on it and it wasn't for long.
Do you have headers? Alot of times that tapping noise that won't go away will be actually coming from a valve closing hard on the seat. This is very common on an SBC with headers that has a decent size cam in it. The headers don't insulate sound like the cast iron manifolds. I had it all the time on my old motor.
I would pull the valve cover off and run it at idle.....you will be able to pin point it quickly. Re-adjust the valve lash while your in there. Hydraulic flat tappets like 1/2 to 3/4 turn of pre-load on the lifter. It's super simple to do with the engine idling...but if that makes you nervous, you can do it with the motor not running as well.
I wouldn't worry too much about running an old school SBC 2 quarts low as long as you weren't beating on it and it wasn't for long.
Do you have headers? Alot of times that tapping noise that won't go away will be actually coming from a valve closing hard on the seat. This is very common on an SBC with headers that has a decent size cam in it. The headers don't insulate sound like the cast iron manifolds. I had it all the time on my old motor.
I would pull the valve cover off and run it at idle.....you will be able to pin point it quickly. Re-adjust the valve lash while your in there. Hydraulic flat tappets like 1/2 to 3/4 turn of pre-load on the lifter. It's super simple to do with the engine idling...but if that makes you nervous, you can do it with the motor not running as well.
thats how i did mine, and had a buddy turn the motor over with a 5/8 ratchet
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