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  • #16
    i would get all new lifters
    idk if its anything like a newer 350 but id switch the pushrods too, the could be damaged if ran dry
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    1996 Base Model
    +2 cylinder mod

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    • #17
      yep id definitely start by replacing the lifters.

      and dont beat yourself up so bad about it, lifters are no biggie.
      -Joel
      1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
      1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


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      • #18
        lifter chatter is more typical when cold and usually dissipates when warmed up - unless you messed up a valve

        are your sure you didnt just develop an exhaust leak?

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        • #19
          Agree with Todd. Once it warms up it should go away because the oil would have gotten to it.

          Also, you have to replace all the lifters at once. With the flat tappets they get a wear pattern in them or something. All the old school people at Murrays kept telling me that when I was rebuilding my engine and then one of them was all "He's got roller lifters..."
          - Brian Meissen
          Owner, MiFBody.com
          Administrator, LTxTech.com


          1994 Camaro LT1 Transplant - 357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven.
          2022 Camaro LT1 - "Cherry Bomb 2"
          Michigan FBody Meet & Greet Car Show 2022
          June 4th, 2022 - 9am to 3pm!!!
          The HUB Stadium, Auburn Hills, MI

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          • #20
            Originally posted by TSTONE View Post
            lifter chatter is more typical when cold and usually dissipates when warmed up - unless you messed up a valve

            are your sure you didnt just develop an exhaust leak?

            Its definatley not an exhaust leak. I took a scewdriver and held it to my valve cover and the tapping is definatly coming from the left side valve cover.
            So I will be replacing all the lifters this week. Since its a 1974 engine how do I go about installing the lifters.
            The noise is not there on startup, the tapping starts when the engine is hot which is why I am wondering if I did something else to the valvetrain.

            1989 Stock L98, Holley Stealth Ram intake, Hooker Headers, GMMG cat-back with cat-delete, #24 Bosch D3 Injectors

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            • #21
              It could be a wrist pin in one of the pistons, that would associate more to the hot symptom. At this point before anything is done I would drain my oil and change filter maybe open filter for inspection of metal particles. If thats good I would proceed with lifters. Keeping in mind you may have worn a lob on the cam and thats giving you the sound. It only take a few thousands to do that. If your lucky you might be able to adj valve lash and get ride of it. At some point your headed for more work if thats the case.
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              1998 Trans Am Convertible A4 - WS6 hood, WS6 air lid, WS6 rims, drilled/slotted rotors.

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              • #22
                I thought that my valves had zero valve lash on them.


                Edit: I should also mention that the tapping noise started probably 3 weeks ago but I thought it was a exhaust leak cause at the time my exhaust had many leaks, So my guess is I did more damage to the engine... I have the valve cover pulled off right now.
                Last edited by Blue_Thunder; June 15th, 2009, 01:35 PM.

                1989 Stock L98, Holley Stealth Ram intake, Hooker Headers, GMMG cat-back with cat-delete, #24 Bosch D3 Injectors

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                • #23
                  Start it with the valve cover off and see how bad the noise is... you'll definitely be able to tell where it's coming from with the cover off.
                  - Brian Meissen
                  Owner, MiFBody.com
                  Administrator, LTxTech.com


                  1994 Camaro LT1 Transplant - 357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven.
                  2022 Camaro LT1 - "Cherry Bomb 2"
                  Michigan FBody Meet & Greet Car Show 2022
                  June 4th, 2022 - 9am to 3pm!!!
                  The HUB Stadium, Auburn Hills, MI

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by meissen View Post
                    Agree with Todd. Once it warms up it should go away because the oil would have gotten to it.

                    Also, you have to replace all the lifters at once. With the flat tappets they get a wear pattern in them or something. All the old school people at Murrays kept telling me that when I was rebuilding my engine and then one of them was all "He's got roller lifters..."
                    damn thats right he doesnt have rollers, Yeah i'd replace them all lol

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                    • #25
                      No noise with a cold engine, Its only tapping when its warm, I don't think its a wrist pin cause that would make noise all the time.

                      Well I have no specs on setting valve lash or anything, 1974 impala 350. If anyone would like t come over and help I would greatly appreciate it
                      Last edited by Blue_Thunder; June 15th, 2009, 02:11 PM.

                      1989 Stock L98, Holley Stealth Ram intake, Hooker Headers, GMMG cat-back with cat-delete, #24 Bosch D3 Injectors

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by Blue_Thunder View Post
                        No noise with a cold engine, Its only tapping when its warm, I don't think its a wrist pin cause that would make noise all the time.

                        Well I have no specs on setting valve lash or anything, 1974 impala 350. If anyone would like t come over and help I would greatly appreciate it
                        Just seems weird that it's only when it's warm - that's when the oil would have gotten up into the push rods and rockers and the oil should be lubricating everything.
                        - Brian Meissen
                        Owner, MiFBody.com
                        Administrator, LTxTech.com


                        1994 Camaro LT1 Transplant - 357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven.
                        2022 Camaro LT1 - "Cherry Bomb 2"
                        Michigan FBody Meet & Greet Car Show 2022
                        June 4th, 2022 - 9am to 3pm!!!
                        The HUB Stadium, Auburn Hills, MI

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by meissen View Post
                          Just seems weird that it's only when it's warm - that's when the oil would have gotten up into the push rods and rockers and the oil should be lubricating everything.
                          x2 my 5.3l truck only lifter ticks when cold.

                          but after about 5 mins it gos away.

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                          • #28
                            keep in mind all metals expand when hot and contract when cold. but you have different metals involved. Block cast iron pistons maybe alem, cam steel, etc.
                            sigpic
                            1998 Trans Am Convertible A4 - WS6 hood, WS6 air lid, WS6 rims, drilled/slotted rotors.

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                            • #29
                              I wouldn't worry too much about running an old school SBC 2 quarts low as long as you weren't beating on it and it wasn't for long.

                              Do you have headers? Alot of times that tapping noise that won't go away will be actually coming from a valve closing hard on the seat. This is very common on an SBC with headers that has a decent size cam in it. The headers don't insulate sound like the cast iron manifolds. I had it all the time on my old motor.

                              I would pull the valve cover off and run it at idle.....you will be able to pin point it quickly. Re-adjust the valve lash while your in there. Hydraulic flat tappets like 1/2 to 3/4 turn of pre-load on the lifter. It's super simple to do with the engine idling...but if that makes you nervous, you can do it with the motor not running as well.
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                              Turbo Charged LS1/T56

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by WMCCjames View Post
                                I wouldn't worry too much about running an old school SBC 2 quarts low as long as you weren't beating on it and it wasn't for long.

                                Do you have headers? Alot of times that tapping noise that won't go away will be actually coming from a valve closing hard on the seat. This is very common on an SBC with headers that has a decent size cam in it. The headers don't insulate sound like the cast iron manifolds. I had it all the time on my old motor.

                                I would pull the valve cover off and run it at idle.....you will be able to pin point it quickly. Re-adjust the valve lash while your in there. Hydraulic flat tappets like 1/2 to 3/4 turn of pre-load on the lifter. It's super simple to do with the engine idling...but if that makes you nervous, you can do it with the motor not running as well.
                                thats how i did mine, and had a buddy turn the motor over with a 5/8 ratchet

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