help with gas lines (true dual/torque arm clearance)

[JoeliusZ28]

Pretty sure vent line can stay or do you mean return line?

Id just mount the fuel filter on the outside of the frame. The reason the fuel lines and such are mounted inside the frame is for car crashes.

They are all in the way regardless of what they are. the only one I will probably keep there is the brake line.

[Fox Slaughter]

In my mind I think you could just bend a new return line using the stock size. The feed side is pressurized to ~43.5 psi and the return line, in my mind wouldn't be pressurized. Anyone chime in if this is correct? What I mean is you have a lot of fuel being pushed in the feed line, but you only have bleed off fuel coming from the regulator going down the return line back to the tank to maintain the psi.

By the way the rails are a joke. I would just mount up -6an to the back of each rail.

[JoeliusZ28]

Anyone else have any input? Bump for the weekday crew. I don't want to keep my stock torque arm on much longer, I am honestly afraid its going to let go at some point this summer.

[birdie2000]

Can the lines be pulled tighter to the floor of the car with zip ties and those sticky pad things, or zip ties with the screw holes in them and screwed into the floor? Looks like if you can get those tight to the floor you'd be all set. I'd consider some heat shielding for the muffler up near the fuel filter if you need to move the muffler out a bit.

[JoeliusZ28]

Question: I know for gas line this would be a huge no-no, but for the brake line that is routed through the tunnel, would there be any issue drilling holes in the floor and routing this INSIDE the car such as the console area?

I autocrossed the car yesterday and my wheel hop is to the point I think i could break my drive-line on command if i just floor it around a corner in first. I couldnt use my power at all, really need to get this fixed.

Can the lines be pulled tighter to the floor of the car with zip ties and those sticky pad things, or zip ties with the screw holes in them and screwed into the floor? Looks like if you can get those tight to the floor you'd be all set. I'd consider some heat shielding for the muffler up near the fuel filter if you need to move the muffler out a bit.

that would one solve one of the clearance issues but not both. The other clearance issue is moving the muffler over to territory that the fuel filter currently inhabits. I'd rather just get it all out of my hair and never have to worry about it again.

[kammi10]

just go spend the 150 bucks and get some braided stainless line and fittings and be done with it.. its your best option by far

[c0ncEpT]

just go spend the 150 bucks and get some braided stainless line and fittings and be done with it.. its your best option by far

Agreed. Then route them where ever you want.

[JoeliusZ28]

just go spend the 150 bucks and get some braided stainless line and fittings and be done with it.. its your best option by far

You or anyone wanna help me pick out the stuff? Obviously i need the line, its the connections im clueless on.

[1BADAIR]

nylon braid>>steel

[JoeliusZ28]

Willing to spend whatever money necessary to get this done, just need some guidance

[bigjon88]

You or anyone wanna help me pick out the stuff? Obviously i need the line, its the connections im clueless on.

I am in the same boat I wanna run braided lines for my fuel but dk what to buy

[JoeliusZ28]

Also if now is the time for me to change to something better than a stock fuel pump, I'll consider that too.

[JoeliusZ28]

Anyone? I guess I'll start a thread on LS1 tech.

[meissen]

Regardless of where you find the answer, when you do post it up over here if you don't mind just so others who find your thread can find answers.

[JoeliusZ28]

I plan on documenting the project on my website . - assuming i do it myself and do t just take it to the guy down the street. Gas lines are not something i really want to have a "learning experience" on.