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  • Project Rebuild

    My 94 z28 will be under going alot of changes this winter,I will be taking alot of pictures and posting them as I go along..Plans are forged 383 stroker,Bmr tubular K member,Bmr tubular upper and lower A arms,ABS delete,Le2 Dart Pro 1 heads..I actually sold my old short block last weekend,so I actually started the build,but forgot to take pics..I should be getting the short block back next week,I need to talk to Mike and see about getting a re-stall...Stay tuned..If this is in the wrong section,feel free to move it..

  • #2
    post some pics of the build! Glad that block is getting put to good use
    -Joel
    1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
    1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


    WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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    • #3
      looking forward to seeing your build
      '91 Camaro Modded, LSx, House of Kolor Intense White, lowered, GS chrome 18" wheels, 14" Brembo CTS-V on all 4 corners, LS rear end, FP suspension components

      " When in doubt...throttle out ! "
      ENVYsion Entertainment Group

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      • #4
        I picked up the short block today!!!!It will be a few days before I can get out to the garage and get some pictures...stay tuned..

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        • #5
          sounds good, cant wait to check out those pics
          '91 Camaro Modded, LSx, House of Kolor Intense White, lowered, GS chrome 18" wheels, 14" Brembo CTS-V on all 4 corners, LS rear end, FP suspension components

          " When in doubt...throttle out ! "
          ENVYsion Entertainment Group

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          • #6
            I have some pics to upload...I ran into problems with the BMR k-member...after installing it my steering shaft is now hitting the driver side header..anyone else have this problem?

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            • #7
              Originally posted by my1994z28 View Post
              I have some pics to upload...I ran into problems with the BMR k-member...after installing it my steering shaft is now hitting the driver side header..anyone else have this problem?
              you know mike did you change motor mounts aswell? i know some people have this issue when changing their motor mounts.
              wishing i could drive like joe and the atm squad

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              • #8
                On my BMR K-member the built-in poly mount was crooked by a couple degrees. Maybe the engine positioning has been slightly altered with your new k-member. From a fabrication standpoint I imagine it would be pretty difficult to get the engine position exactly where it was stock. From what I remember many sets of headers already require clearancing of a tube for the steering shaft as it is, I could see even a slight change in positioning with the new k-member causing a minor clearance issue.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by birdie2000 View Post
                  On my BMR K-member the built-in poly mount was crooked by a couple degrees. Maybe the engine positioning has been slightly altered with your new k-member. From a fabrication standpoint I imagine it would be pretty difficult to get the engine position exactly where it was stock. From what I remember many sets of headers already require clearancing of a tube for the steering shaft as it is, I could see even a slight change in positioning with the new k-member causing a minor clearance issue.
                  but he has pacesetters, i completly agree with what your saying, but they are known for not having clearance issues. im more onto the motor mount idea.
                  wishing i could drive like joe and the atm squad

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                  • #10
                    Oh no, I agree with you too, it probably is motor-mount related. I'm just saying that since one of the motor mounts is built-in to the k-member (and stock clamshell/mount isn't reused), it's possible that it's BMR's fault since I've seen it happen before and it's hard to notice unless you're looking for it. Just something to check for shits and giggles.

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                    • #11
                      One fix is to loosen the bolts for the steering column inside the car push the steering wheel towards the middle of the car it (only moves very little) then tighten it down that slight movement gave us enough clearance. recheck or do this with wheels on the ground. Side note have bolt in steering coupler loose when you do this. Because of the pivot angle from inside you can get up to an 1/8" by headers. final clearance was obtained by filing the ridge off on the head of the coupling bolt.
                      Usually this is enough, when you are driving and on the engine torque moves engine up on drivers side and will give you more clearance.
                      sigpic
                      1998 Trans Am Convertible A4 - WS6 hood, WS6 air lid, WS6 rims, drilled/slotted rotors.

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                      • #12
                        I do have a new poly mount installed on the driver side...I did grind the yoke on the steering shaft and gained a little more clearance...Thanks Larry for the suggestion on moving the steering shaft over,gonna try that tomorrow..I cant wait til I can finally fire this beast up!!!!...LOL

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                        • #13
                          Yeah you can get a decent amount of movement just loosening the two bolts under the dash and pushing the steering wheel towards the center of the car. You won't notice it when you're in the car driving, but it does make a difference for clearance by the headers.
                          - Brian Meissen
                          Owner, MiFBody.com
                          Administrator, LTxTech.com


                          1994 Camaro LT1 Transplant - 357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven.
                          2022 Camaro LT1 - "Cherry Bomb 2"
                          Michigan FBody Meet & Greet Car Show 2022
                          June 4th, 2022 - 9am to 3pm!!!
                          The HUB Stadium, Auburn Hills, MI

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