Anyone use non synthetic oil in their car?

[meissen]

ps -- their* (fixed the title for ya. )

[OIF1VET]

Have always used Mobil 1 synthetic.. Gets changed once a year... But I only put 2k a year on my car..

[nascarnate326]

There is really no way to know how well any oil is doing without a UOA test, I just looked at a UOA on KENDALL synthetic oil after 5k miles and the oil was shot. The oil was shearing to a lower viscosity and the wear metals were high and this was on a new unmodified GM V6 CUV that the dash oil monitor was saying 50% life left. All I know is every oil, filter and engine is different and may require more or less protection but i will never trust the oil-life monitor on the dash of a GM vehicle.

I trust a ohv or dohc OLM system but these new direct injected motors are hard on oil.

Both my cars get m1. Cobalt gets lots of highway miles every week, oil gets changed when the gauge is at 10%.

Wondering if it's really worth the extra for m1 for the camaro. Wouldn't save me much money buts it's a psychological thing IMO.

[JoeliusZ28]

IMO it completely depends how you are driving it. In all the reading ive done on LT1s, I have concluded that the oil system is actually to be blamed for a lot of engine failures and it is completely independent of power level or mileage. There was a thread over on frrax about how even 305s like to burn bearings up after so many laps of all-out driving. You know it isn't the power level that is straining the bearings with a 305. I was able to keep my 370rwhp car out on the track for multiple 20 minute sessions giving everything, yet some stock SBCs don't even last 10 minutes before toasting a bearing. If i didnt have 40 weight M1, and more importantly the upgraded pressure relief spring, I believe my bottom end would have dropped out many moons ago. For any performance application i recommend the white pressure spring. Synthetic is a great idea for a "band aid" fix if you can't do that. I choose to take both pre-cautions, as well as a taller oil filter to maximize my oil in the system. Next I need to get a stand alone cooler!

Everyday driving with some WOT - I'd say you are fine with regular oil, but still use 40 weight over 30.

if you do a lot of "aggressive" driving or drag racing - use M1

Road racing or continued high RPM driving - you NEED the white pressure spring and the best oil you can get. Probably a cooler too.

[FASHOOTER]

GM white spring 5w-20 or 5w-30 regular oil, Wix filter. Oil changed every time I go to track so I guess about once a month in summer! Thats probably 250 miles a month. Oil is cheap insurance

[farmington]

I'm in the same mind set as Larry, it only gets changed once a year, so the Mobil 1 isn't that much more expensive. It helps me sleep at night. LOL.

[Kwazrollinz28]

IMO it completely depends how you are driving it. In all the reading ive done on LT1s, I have concluded that the oil system is actually to be blamed for a lot of engine failures and it is completely independent of power level or mileage. There was a thread over on frrax about how even 305s like to burn bearings up after so many laps of all-out driving. You know it isn't the power level that is straining the bearings with a 305. I was able to keep my 370rwhp car out on the track for multiple 20 minute sessions giving everything, yet some stock SBCs don't even last 10 minutes before toasting a bearing. If i didnt have 40 weight M1, and more importantly the upgraded pressure relief spring, I believe my bottom end would have dropped out many moons ago. For any performance application i recommend the white pressure spring. Synthetic is a great idea for a "band aid" fix if you can't do that. I choose to take both pre-cautions, as well as a taller oil filter to maximize my oil in the system. Next I need to get a stand alone cooler!


Everyday driving with some WOT - I'd say you are fine with regular oil, but still use 40 weight over 30.

if you do a lot of "aggressive" driving or drag racing - use M1

Road racing or continued high RPM driving - you NEED the white pressure spring and the best oil you can get. Probably a cooler too.

yup i did the spring mod, 20w-50 oil and a K&N tall oil filter and get great oil pressure now

[1slo_camaro]

plain castrol white bottle 10w30 winter and 40 in summer

[Lucky SOB]

I only use M1 in the Trans Am... the truck gets conventional

[SoulTerror]

yup i did the spring mod, 20w-50 oil and a K&N tall oil filter and get great oil pressure now

hhhmmm I wonder if that's why my issue is. Once my motor get's warm at idle it's almost red line, but as soon as the rpm's go up, the pressure goes up.

[Detoxx03]

Currently using Castrol 10w40 while I complete my break in and after I will switch back to my Amsoil 5w30

[MunsterZ28]

where does one get this spring? and if you have a high volume pump does it suck the stock pan dry before oil has time to return to the pan? sorry about my ignorance but i swear i have read that somewhere.

along with suspension i want to upgrade my oil system after boot-camp for racing applications and don't know whats good and whats bad.


o and just today i swapped in 10w-30 valveoline high mileage just to get me threw the very little it will be driving this summer. was on sale with a filter for $20

[Kwazrollinz28]

i got mine on ebay pretty cheap, i also heard you can mod the factory spring as well.

[JoeliusZ28]

GM part # 3848911

[my95z28]

Yea Fred, HV pump will suck the stock pan dry. Best bet is a HV pump with a high capacity pan.

Just started using German Castrol 0w30 in my LS1 Camaro. $8.50/quart Really hoping it clears up some of the valvetrain noise.