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10 bolts nittos and a T-56

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  • #16
    Originally posted by JoeliusZ28 View Post
    if your suspension cant handle it it doesnt matter. your stock torque arm will experience a whole new world of forces when you put nittos on it. Not that it isnt possible, im just saying I wouldnt expect it to work out very well. my stock torque arm is giving me problems at ~360 rwhp and tires that cant hook worth a crap.
    Well Im not investing in a torque arm because Im planing on converting it to a mini 4 link setup next year when I do the 8.8 swap.
    What do you mean by not work out well do you mean it will still spin? Im not wanting the car to completely Hook I just want to cut down on wheel spin because my first gear is useless for the most part unless I bog. Keep in mind my car is driven 99% percent of the time on the street. Im really looking for a tire that will cut down on wheel spin in 1st some and when I take it to the track will cut down on wheel spin but not dead hook and break my rear end? Is there any other tires that fit this bill?
    Last edited by mtuggle86; June 1st, 2010, 08:10 PM.
    01 NBM Base SS build #514 M6 Pat G/EPS 230/234 111+4 Cam, LS2 Heads, Tick Master,Extreme Chassis 8.8 with 4.30's, BMR LCA And Torque Arm, Edelbrock PHB, FIPK intake, Ported TB. Jet-Hot LT Headers TSP True Duals Tuned By SB Tuning

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    • #17
      as far as i know with tires. im not a tire guru but nittos are decent on the street and any time you put any ponies down to the pavement through the tires you take a chance of breaking the rear. if your careful you should be fine. but realiability and performance dont normally mix lol. either your gonna have a dead hooking car or really good hooking car but then you gotta look at all the wear and stress your putting on your rear and visa versa. on the torque arm aspect. hard launches will start to mess with your trans as well. mount and what not. something definately a really really good investment. even if your gonna do something better. dont keep stock for now. thats why i dont have a 383 camaro anymore


      sorry if im stealing your thunder joel im not trying to step on your toes.
      94 V6 A4>>>>LT1 M6>>>>>>383 M6 13.1 @ 109 2.2 60' Sold/Stripped
      94 Z28 383 LT1 A4 SNAPPED CRANK
      1992 Camaro RS 305 700r4 Convert.
      1986 Dodge Ramcharger 318 Dually Rear, Camo paint. Scrapped
      1993 s10 4x4 5spd 4.3 on 31s awaiting a lift. [COLOR=rgb(0,0,0)]traded for...[/COLOR]
      1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 I6 getting 3in lift and 31s within a week or two
      "Life is full of decisions, You make them and don't look back"

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      • #18
        Originally posted by mtuggle86 View Post
        Well Im not investing in a torque arm because Im planing on converting it to a mini 4 link setup next year when I do the 8.8 swap.
        What do you mean by not work out well do you mean it will still spin? Im not wanting the car to completely Hook I just want to cut down on wheel spin because my first gear is useless for the most part unless I bog. Keep in mind my car is driven 99% percent of the time on the street. Im really looking for a tire that will cut down on wheel spin in 1st some and when I take it to the track will cut down on wheel spin but not dead hook and break my rear end? Is there any other tires that fit this bill?
        what im talking about is nothing to do with wheel spin but wheel hop when you are near that limit of traction. that traction limit will be harder to break, which means there is more force acting on the torque arm at the point that does happen which equals more wheel hop. make sense?
        -Joel
        1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
        1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


        WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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        • #19
          Originally posted by JoeliusZ28 View Post
          what im talking about is nothing to do with wheel spin but wheel hop when you are near that limit of traction. that traction limit will be harder to break, which means there is more force acting on the torque arm at the point that does happen which equals more wheel hop. make sense?
          Ya I get what your saying
          01 NBM Base SS build #514 M6 Pat G/EPS 230/234 111+4 Cam, LS2 Heads, Tick Master,Extreme Chassis 8.8 with 4.30's, BMR LCA And Torque Arm, Edelbrock PHB, FIPK intake, Ported TB. Jet-Hot LT Headers TSP True Duals Tuned By SB Tuning

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          • #20
            See my sig...10 Bolt, Nitto DR's, M6 and 4.10's also zero wheel hop. If you don't beat the shit out of your car it should last a while but you're always that one clutch dump away from going BOOM! I had M/T ET Streets on it before and they hooked but get caught in the rain and its like ICE. The Nitto's aren't as sticky but are great all around DR's and they last longer too. Hope this helps.
            sigpic
            1999 Trans Am NBM M6 || Stock short block || Livernois stage 2 LS6 heads || Speed Inc. SI5 cam 231/237 .589/.595 112 lsa || LS6 intake || P&P throttle body || F.A.S.T. 36 lb.injectors || Ls6 oil pump || New timing chain, gears and cam bearings || GM performance lifters || Comp pushrods || Comp 918 valvesprings || SLP lid || SLP underdrive pulley || Jethot long tube headers || ORY || Borla exhaust || Hurst short throw shifter || LS7 clutch || BMR lowering springs || Tubular control arms || BMR panhard bar || BMR torque arm || 4.10 gear || 10 bolt rear with welded axle tubes and a TA Performance girdle || Drilled and slotted rotors || SLP subframe connectors || BMR driveshaft loop || SLP Firehawk hood || SLP Firehawk Wheels || Nitto Drags || EVI Dyno Tune 436RWHP/ 413RWTQ

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            • #21
              joel pretty much covers it, i beat my 10 bolt up pretty good on my other car and when i added my 408 stroker it didnt skip a beat the 2-3 weeks i was driving it around.

              just watch the wheel hop and dont do a ricer dump
              sigpic
              The LS1 or Go Home Crew

              ASE master certified
              1998 Camarbo z28-going back to stock
              11.3@121 old heads & cam setup




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              • #22
                Its just not a good idea. You can do it..................................but lets just say I wouldnt drive the car 85 miles to the track and try to get a good launch, and HAVE to drive it home. I would recomend trailering it to the track the first couple of times you run it on sticky tires. I ran a centerforce clutch, and et streets on a bolt on LT1 car and it didnt take long to tweak the housing and take out an axle bering. That, in my opinion, is the weak point on the 10 bolt. If you run a 4.10 gear, the gears dont hold up well and can chip under hard launching, and the housings are prone to tweaking. Dana FTW, lol. And FWIW, I would take a torque arm over a short 3 or 4 link any day for the street. Ive seen those setups and they work OK for the track (not any better than a torque arm) but arent real street friendly and ride like crap. Hence the reason you dont see them very often. The arms end up to short and mess with your suspension travel in my opinion. If you want to hook hard and go fast with a T56, talk to Larry (1badair) on this site. He will steer you in the right direction. But be warned, hes kinda a dick, and dosent play well with others, lol. Eric L

                1997 Camaro SS #2819 M6, Red, 3.42, 1 of 27, Ttops, BBK shorty headers, Flowmaster cat back, 1.6 rr, LT4 valve springs, ASAM CAI, Centerforce clutch, runs 12s, breaks 10 bolts.
                http://s602.photobucket.com/albums/t...20Camaro%20SS/


                1963 Plymouth Valiant Signet 200, 6.0 LS3, Carb, Rapid Motorsports Dominator 2X cam.
                http://s602.photobucket.com/albums/t...uth%20Valiant/

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by prorac1 View Post
                  Its just not a good idea. You can do it..................................but lets just say I wouldnt drive the car 85 miles to the track and try to get a good launch, and HAVE to drive it home. I would recomend trailering it to the track the first couple of times you run it on sticky tires. I ran a centerforce clutch, and et streets on a bolt on LT1 car and it didnt take long to tweak the housing and take out an axle bering. That, in my opinion, is the weak point on the 10 bolt. If you run a 4.10 gear, the gears dont hold up well and can chip under hard launching, and the housings are prone to tweaking. Dana FTW, lol. And FWIW, I would take a torque arm over a short 3 or 4 link any day for the street. Ive seen those setups and they work OK for the track (not any better than a torque arm) but arent real street friendly and ride like crap. Hence the reason you dont see them very often. The arms end up to short and mess with your suspension travel in my opinion. If you want to hook hard and go fast with a T56, talk to Larry (1badair) on this site. He will steer you in the right direction. But be warned, hes kinda a dick, and dosent play well with others, lol. Eric L
                  What rpm where you launching at?
                  01 NBM Base SS build #514 M6 Pat G/EPS 230/234 111+4 Cam, LS2 Heads, Tick Master,Extreme Chassis 8.8 with 4.30's, BMR LCA And Torque Arm, Edelbrock PHB, FIPK intake, Ported TB. Jet-Hot LT Headers TSP True Duals Tuned By SB Tuning

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                  • #24
                    i'm a wha?

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by 1BADAIR View Post
                      i'm a wha?
                      He called you a dick larry Do you guys think Removing the rear LCA's and PHB and boxing them like this would help stop wheel hop? http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/suspen...-60-bucks.html

                      Also what about a solid Torque arm Bushing I know most of the flex is prob in the arm itself but would this help much?
                      Last edited by mtuggle86; June 2nd, 2010, 09:54 AM.
                      01 NBM Base SS build #514 M6 Pat G/EPS 230/234 111+4 Cam, LS2 Heads, Tick Master,Extreme Chassis 8.8 with 4.30's, BMR LCA And Torque Arm, Edelbrock PHB, FIPK intake, Ported TB. Jet-Hot LT Headers TSP True Duals Tuned By SB Tuning

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                      • #26
                        just find a used torque arm, tubular lca's and some relocation brackets and your wheel hop should be almost non existant.




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                        • #27
                          larry isnt a dick, hes short and to the point. no need to blabbering.
                          wishing i could drive like joe and the atm squad

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by MunsterZ28 View Post
                            larry isnt a dick, hes short and to the point. no need to blabbering.
                            idk
                            check this out
                            http://www.bringvictory.com/

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by 1BADAIR View Post
                              idk
                              check this out
                              http://www.bringvictory.com/
                              thats bull crap!!!! hahahaha love it lol
                              97 TA AI 355
                              2012 Jeep Patriot

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by MunsterZ28 View Post
                                larry isnt a dick, hes short and to the point. no need to blabbering.
                                I think the other guy was joking
                                01 NBM Base SS build #514 M6 Pat G/EPS 230/234 111+4 Cam, LS2 Heads, Tick Master,Extreme Chassis 8.8 with 4.30's, BMR LCA And Torque Arm, Edelbrock PHB, FIPK intake, Ported TB. Jet-Hot LT Headers TSP True Duals Tuned By SB Tuning

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