10 bolts nittos and a T-56

[Nocooler]

http://www.youtube.com/nocooler#p/u/8/W86kp0hwymE - nitto's with 10 bolt - 3.42's - 3000rpm slip (as much as you can slip a monster stage 3)

Just to give you an idea

[JoeliusZ28]

Replace the control arm bushings with polyurathanes. I used eigth inch plate steel to box the bottom and the end of both control arms. Eric L

Eh, i dont agree with that. the axle cant flex (articulate) like it was designed to with polyurathane bushings. I have one set poly and the other set stock so there is at least some give. I dont think full polys are a good idea without a meaty sway bar.

[mtuggle86]

Eh, i dont agree with that. the axle cant flex (articulate) like it was designed to with polyurathane bushings. I have one set poly and the other set stock so there is at least some give. I dont think full polys are a good idea without a meaty sway bar.

I decided after some reading that 1le bushings will be a better choice for my car.

The FB397 lca bushings sold at pepboys are the same as the moog and 1le bushings but there only 8.99 per set

[prorac1]

Its polyurathane, not cement. They are still flexable. From my experience the secret is in the pinion angle and instant center. I would like to try reinforcing/preloading the axle tubes. IIRC you (Joel) had the link to where they did that. They connected the rod ends to the girdled cover and tan them to brackets on the ends of the axle tubes. We are planing on trying this on a friends rearend to see if we can make it live behind a 4l60e and 10 sec times. Time will tell. Eric L

[1BADAIR]

i am gonna bolt/weld a plate on the bottom of the TA bracket then run bars wwith heims out to the shock mounts to try to get mijne to live longer

[prorac1]

OH, thats a good one, never thought about doing it that way. Eric L

[DETROITMUSCLE]

I'm sure you guys can make something work Eric, lots of guys are lucky enough to hit 10s on bone stock 10 bolts.

[mtuggle86]

The 1le bushing went in easy enough only took about 2 hours. Im not sure if it just in my head or what but overall the rear seems tighter from just swapping out the bushings. I also had the nittos put on yesterday all Ive done is jump on it through 1st and 2nd but it doesn't seem to have any wheel hop when doing that. Theres three drilled out holes in the LCA. I think im going to make/find round metal spacers to fit between the lca walls then get some bolts and run them through the holes and spacers and tighten the whole thing down. This would keep the the metal walls from open/closing under stress in turn stiffening them right?

[DETROITMUSCLE]

got a pic? If the LCA has 3 mounting holes you must have relocation brackets that would be sweet.

[mtuggle86]

got a pic? If the LCA has 3 mounting holes you must have relocation brackets that would be sweet.

No there not mounting holes there holes that run the length of the control arm just peak your head under your car and youll see what Im talking about. I read about the spacers and to me it seems like a good idea by keeping the distance the lca walls are apart the same at all times it prevents them from flexing but yet isn't as solid as boxing them.

I found this write up it seems to have some good info on F-body suspension http://www.crystalridge.net/cars/bushings.htm#How