Originally posted by Purple94Z28
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Looking at sub-frame connectors...whats good?
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Originally posted by meissen View PostExactly. Plus, how much more strength is a weld-in going to truly offer? I'm no engineer, and maybe this is where it comes in, but if you have something tightened securely or you have it welded, the lateral forces that it's going to see from our sub-500hp beasts doesn't seem to be that big of a deal. Sure, eventually get them welded in just so you don't have to worry about the bolts coming undone, but will it REALLY matter? I think some people just go with the "weld ins are always better" bandwagon without really thinking about it.
On the 2pt vs 3pt, though, I appreciate everyone's input in this thread. I hadn't thought of interference with the y-pipe. Cost aside, that might be enough of a reason to go 2pt instead.
actually weld in ones are substantially stronger since they allow zero flex compared to bolt ins that will flex at the bolts
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Yeah... that does make sense. Meh, I'm still going bolt-in though. Easier to bolt it in and not worry about it for awhile and get it welded later when it's more convenient.Originally posted by kammi10 View Postactually weld in ones are substantially stronger since they allow zero flex compared to bolt ins that will flex at the bolts- Brian Meissen
Owner, MiFBody.com
Administrator, LTxTech.com

1994 Camaro LT1 Transplant -
357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven. 
2022 Camaro LT1 - "Cherry Bomb 2"Michigan FBody Meet & Greet Car Show 2022
June 4th, 2022 - 9am to 3pm!!!
The HUB Stadium, Auburn Hills, MI
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Nick, finding a shop to weld them in should not be a problem.
lol ive thought about it. This isnt the first time we've had this arguement here. Strength and rigidity are two different metrics. If saying shear strength is all you need, then basically you are claiming to have enough horsepower to twist your chasis as it is without them. Bolt-ins ad a degree of rigidity as well but it will not compare, especially over time. The whole idea of subframe connectors is to eliminate flex, which is alot more of a rigidity issue than it is strength. You have a strength issue when your doors arent aligning or your quarter panels are creasing.Originally posted by meissen View PostExactly. Plus, how much more strength is a weld-in going to truly offer? I'm no engineer, and maybe this is where it comes in, but if you have something tightened securely or you have it welded, the forces that it's going to see from our sub-500hp beasts doesn't seem to be that big of a deal. Sure, eventually get them welded in just so you don't have to worry about the bolts coming undone, but will it REALLY matter? I think some people just go with the "weld ins are always better" bandwagon without really thinking about it.
On the 2pt vs 3pt, though, I appreciate everyone's input in this thread. I hadn't thought of interference with the y-pipe. Cost aside, that might be enough of a reason to go 2pt instead.
And im not saying welds are perfect either. In fact I want to get new subframe connectors because i think my old rusty welds are no longer as rigid as they need to be from corrosion and several hundred stress-cycles. And I say that because my quarter panels dont seem to be as picture-perfect as they were when i bought the car, yet I am far from having a creasing issue.Last edited by JoeliusZ28; February 2nd, 2010, 06:35 PM.-Joel
1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd

WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop
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actually, due to the curvature of firebird quarter panels, they are more resistant to flex damage than camaro's are.Originally posted by Fbomb View PostYeah the creasing issue is going to be important for me.-Joel
1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd

WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop
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I have round bmr weld ons on my ragtop bolt on will longate the holes will seem tight but will flex there is a right way to put them on and a wrong way to put them on, if you have them welded make sure that they don't catch the gas line on fire like mine was, Sean did mine at a shop called Cars he was at one time on this site it really keeps the car tight.
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aka Purple94Z28
- May 1st, 2009
- 1858
- Nick Kerns
- 1999 BBM z28 Camaro
- Saginaw Michigan
- New Car Sales Consultant
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Alright guys maybe ill just get the weld in's and call the local race shop and see if they will weld them in. i just hope the welds look good.1999 z28 Bright Blue Metallic 1 of 10
1999 z28 Hugger Orange RS 1 of >309 (Sold)
1997 z28 White 6 speed Heads and Cam. (Sold)
1994 z28 PPM auto Cam only (Sold)
1984 sport coupe red 4 cyl (Sold)
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dope some chasis saver / por15 over the welds when you get it home.-Joel
1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd

WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop
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running kenny brown double diamonds (3 point) that are welded in and driveshaft loop connecting them and seemed to help with the little sqeaks (like t-top area)Don't know if it helps but was told when installing try to have wheels on ground (hoist lifting from tires) so suspension is loaded. Don't just jack up one side then another.Which reminds me since I had sub frame conn. installed sometimes jacking up front the whole side starts lifting.good luck!!sigpic
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