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Looking at sub-frame connectors...whats good?

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Purple94Z28 View Post
    i agree Joel but I really dont have anywhere or know anywhere to get them welded in
    im sure a decent exhaust shop could do it, i know even a hand full in my small town can
    sigpic
    The LS1 or Go Home Crew

    ASE master certified
    1998 Camarbo z28-going back to stock
    11.3@121 old heads & cam setup




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    • #17
      Originally posted by meissen View Post
      Exactly. Plus, how much more strength is a weld-in going to truly offer? I'm no engineer, and maybe this is where it comes in, but if you have something tightened securely or you have it welded, the lateral forces that it's going to see from our sub-500hp beasts doesn't seem to be that big of a deal. Sure, eventually get them welded in just so you don't have to worry about the bolts coming undone, but will it REALLY matter? I think some people just go with the "weld ins are always better" bandwagon without really thinking about it.


      On the 2pt vs 3pt, though, I appreciate everyone's input in this thread. I hadn't thought of interference with the y-pipe. Cost aside, that might be enough of a reason to go 2pt instead.

      actually weld in ones are substantially stronger since they allow zero flex compared to bolt ins that will flex at the bolts




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      • #18
        Originally posted by kammi10 View Post
        actually weld in ones are substantially stronger since they allow zero flex compared to bolt ins that will flex at the bolts
        Yeah... that does make sense. Meh, I'm still going bolt-in though. Easier to bolt it in and not worry about it for awhile and get it welded later when it's more convenient.
        - Brian Meissen
        Owner, MiFBody.com
        Administrator, LTxTech.com


        1994 Camaro LT1 Transplant - 357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven.
        2022 Camaro LT1 - "Cherry Bomb 2"
        Michigan FBody Meet & Greet Car Show 2022
        June 4th, 2022 - 9am to 3pm!!!
        The HUB Stadium, Auburn Hills, MI

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        • #19
          Probably weld mine in this summer, just time-constrained during spring break to get everything done so they'll be bolted in for a few months. I'll apply red loc-tite and hopefully it'll help.

          Used to own a Firebird.

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          • #20
            Nick, finding a shop to weld them in should not be a problem.

            Originally posted by meissen View Post
            Exactly. Plus, how much more strength is a weld-in going to truly offer? I'm no engineer, and maybe this is where it comes in, but if you have something tightened securely or you have it welded, the forces that it's going to see from our sub-500hp beasts doesn't seem to be that big of a deal. Sure, eventually get them welded in just so you don't have to worry about the bolts coming undone, but will it REALLY matter? I think some people just go with the "weld ins are always better" bandwagon without really thinking about it.


            On the 2pt vs 3pt, though, I appreciate everyone's input in this thread. I hadn't thought of interference with the y-pipe. Cost aside, that might be enough of a reason to go 2pt instead.
            lol ive thought about it. This isnt the first time we've had this arguement here. Strength and rigidity are two different metrics. If saying shear strength is all you need, then basically you are claiming to have enough horsepower to twist your chasis as it is without them. Bolt-ins ad a degree of rigidity as well but it will not compare, especially over time. The whole idea of subframe connectors is to eliminate flex, which is alot more of a rigidity issue than it is strength. You have a strength issue when your doors arent aligning or your quarter panels are creasing.

            And im not saying welds are perfect either. In fact I want to get new subframe connectors because i think my old rusty welds are no longer as rigid as they need to be from corrosion and several hundred stress-cycles. And I say that because my quarter panels dont seem to be as picture-perfect as they were when i bought the car, yet I am far from having a creasing issue.
            Last edited by JoeliusZ28; February 2nd, 2010, 06:35 PM.
            -Joel
            1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
            1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


            WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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            • #21
              Yeah the creasing issue is going to be important for me.

              Used to own a Firebird.

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              • #22
                Originally posted by Fbomb View Post
                Yeah the creasing issue is going to be important for me.
                actually, due to the curvature of firebird quarter panels, they are more resistant to flex damage than camaro's are.
                -Joel
                1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
                1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


                WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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                • #23
                  i have the UMI 2 points and they came on the car, so i dont know actually what it was like without them.. but i like them lol
                  97 TA AI 355
                  2012 Jeep Patriot

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                  • #24
                    I have round bmr weld ons on my ragtop bolt on will longate the holes will seem tight but will flex there is a right way to put them on and a wrong way to put them on, if you have them welded make sure that they don't catch the gas line on fire like mine was, Sean did mine at a shop called Cars he was at one time on this site it really keeps the car tight.

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                    • #25
                      Alright guys maybe ill just get the weld in's and call the local race shop and see if they will weld them in. i just hope the welds look good.
                      1999 z28 Bright Blue Metallic 1 of 10
                      1999 z28 Hugger Orange RS 1 of >309 (Sold)
                      1997 z28 White 6 speed Heads and Cam. (Sold)
                      1994 z28 PPM auto Cam only (Sold)
                      1984 sport coupe red 4 cyl (Sold)

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                      • #26
                        dope some chasis saver / por15 over the welds when you get it home.
                        -Joel
                        1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
                        1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


                        WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

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                        • #27
                          UMI tubular 3pt bolt in here. Got the bolt in so that I can install, and make sure its done right, then have any idiot that can weld, weld them in.
                          1999 Camaro - 6 liters of fury.....

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                          • #28
                            running kenny brown double diamonds (3 point) that are welded in and driveshaft loop connecting them and seemed to help with the little sqeaks (like t-top area)Don't know if it helps but was told when installing try to have wheels on ground (hoist lifting from tires) so suspension is loaded. Don't just jack up one side then another.Which reminds me since I had sub frame conn. installed sometimes jacking up front the whole side starts lifting.good luck!!
                            sigpic

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                            • #29
                              Another nice thing about the bolt-ins. You can get under the car with a jack to loosely install the bolts and then set it back down and tighten them if you can reach 'em.

                              Used to own a Firebird.

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                              • #30
                                yep installing with all 4 wheels on the ground is a MUST.
                                Doing less with more


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