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  • #16
    Originally posted by 86Camaro View Post
    boneage
    What?

    2011 Mustang GT
    20" Satin Black AMRs with 305/35 & 275/35 MT Street Radials, Saleen Grille, CS Lower Valance, Roush Axleback, GT500 Spoiler, resonator delete

    In Progress: Brembo 6-piston brake upgrade


    Comment


    • #17
      Originally posted by JoeliusZ28 View Post
      i suggest doing the trap door method where you cut a hole in the flat area immediately behind the back seat. You dont want to drop a rear end, exhaust, and a gas tank for that. It would take you an entire day just to GET to the pump if the rear has never been out before.
      might take this route if too expensive to have mechanic do. any idea what it would be to have it done, everything included? Noy much time between working and college.

      2011 Mustang GT
      20" Satin Black AMRs with 305/35 & 275/35 MT Street Radials, Saleen Grille, CS Lower Valance, Roush Axleback, GT500 Spoiler, resonator delete

      In Progress: Brembo 6-piston brake upgrade


      Comment


      • #18
        no idea man, i do just about everything myself. im busy writing a paper thats due in the morning, but tomorrow I will try to find you a how-to writeup to give you a better idea of whats involved.
        -Joel
        1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
        1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


        WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

        Comment


        • #19
          its eay and takes a hour to two hours at most if you ar mechannically inclined and have never done a pump before..

          i have pulled it 2 or 3 times on my t/a and i have it down to about 20-25 minutes on the side of the road with fuel dissconnect tools, a screw driver and a set of channel locks.


          all you do is fold the back seat up, pull the carpet and insulation off of the back hump.. find the center of the hump and cut a peep hole, to see how big you need to make it.. i don;t know how big exactly.. but just eyeball it.
          cut the hole, get a 3/8's and a 5/16's fuel line dissconnect tools from auto parts store, and dissconnect fuel lines.. take the 5 nuts off the of the top of the pump housing, and pull the swing arm assembly free of the tank.. let it drain or you will have fuel everywhere..

          at the bottom of the swing arm assembly there is a white box.. take a screwdriver and gently pry it off the swing arm assembly, dissconnect the hose and wires..

          gently pry the top of the white/yellow container open and take out the pump. replace with new pump and put it all back together..

          when you get it all back together take a peice of sheetmetal, some caulk and a couple short self tapping screws and patch the hole and seal it.. and your good to go!
          -Im Ron Burgundy?
          ----------------------------
          -LT1 383 Stroker, 36 lbs SVO's, Comp Custom grind, Eagle H beam forged rotating assembly, 1.5 RR's, Hooker super comp LT's, custom straight pipes back to a pair of Thrush Turbo II's.. more to come.

          Comment


          • #20
            autozone has a entire swingarm assembly for sale for 250 bucks.. pump and all.
            -Im Ron Burgundy?
            ----------------------------
            -LT1 383 Stroker, 36 lbs SVO's, Comp Custom grind, Eagle H beam forged rotating assembly, 1.5 RR's, Hooker super comp LT's, custom straight pipes back to a pair of Thrush Turbo II's.. more to come.

            Comment


            • #21
              thank you very much, with the way it's acting now do you think it will last the rest of the week?

              2011 Mustang GT
              20" Satin Black AMRs with 305/35 & 275/35 MT Street Radials, Saleen Grille, CS Lower Valance, Roush Axleback, GT500 Spoiler, resonator delete

              In Progress: Brembo 6-piston brake upgrade


              Comment


              • #22
                I dealt with mine for a month - and it took a few minutes of cranking to have it fire.
                Gone but not forgotten: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z

                "You shall ride eternal. Shiny and chrome."

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                • #23
                  its just one of those things.. when it goes it goes.. may get lucky and last a month.. may not start the next time you try..
                  -Im Ron Burgundy?
                  ----------------------------
                  -LT1 383 Stroker, 36 lbs SVO's, Comp Custom grind, Eagle H beam forged rotating assembly, 1.5 RR's, Hooker super comp LT's, custom straight pipes back to a pair of Thrush Turbo II's.. more to come.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    here you go:

                    http://www.worldisround.com/articles/12533/index.html

                    http://www.geocities.com/formulapower2/fuelpump.html

                    http://www.taekwondoplus.org/z28/fuelpump.html
                    -Joel
                    1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
                    1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


                    WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by k0261886 View Post
                      @#$@% I'm sooo pissed right now. Bought this car yesterday, probably listed to it start five times, it took at most 1 extra turn to fire. Get it home and shut it off, then start again later and this starts happening. Don't know if I'm going to mess with it or just have an actual mechanic do it. Kind of strapped for cash right know with just buying it.
                      I Hear ya.
                      I just bought mine a month ago and now mine won't start.

                      -Duane

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                      • #26
                        Well now I'm throwing check engine lights. And of course the scanner to read it is OBD-1.5, which nobody but a dealer has. Wonderful....

                        2011 Mustang GT
                        20" Satin Black AMRs with 305/35 & 275/35 MT Street Radials, Saleen Grille, CS Lower Valance, Roush Axleback, GT500 Spoiler, resonator delete

                        In Progress: Brembo 6-piston brake upgrade


                        Comment


                        • #27
                          OBD 1.5?

                          I thought for Fbodies it was just OBI and II???

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            So did I but apparently ONLY 1995 were OBD-1.5. OBD-2 fits the port, but only comes up error. It was the year before it was government mandated to switch to OBD-2

                            2011 Mustang GT
                            20" Satin Black AMRs with 305/35 & 275/35 MT Street Radials, Saleen Grille, CS Lower Valance, Roush Axleback, GT500 Spoiler, resonator delete

                            In Progress: Brembo 6-piston brake upgrade


                            Comment


                            • #29
                              oohh... I have a 1994.. of course I have the OBD II port..but with an OBD I , I have the full scantool


                              In order to get it scanned and what not you have to put in the info manually... Engine.Car.etc. its not like OBD II where as hook and boom.

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                OBD 1.5 is the 95 bastard year where they used an OBD2 connector on an OBD-1 pcm. yea, it sucks... i would know

                                and rolo you have a 94... why is your car a 1.5? should be 1.
                                -Joel
                                1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
                                1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


                                WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

                                Comment

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