Welcome to the Michigan FBody Association website.
The Michigan FBody Association is a centralized website for FBody enthusiasts to discuss what's going on in the Michigan area. MiFbody.com was created to allow for an easy one-stop place to find out what's going on in Michigan as far as FBody events, to find out what clubs are available in your immediate area, and for an easy place to post classifieds for items you want to sell! Our goal was to create a more close-knit community of FBody enthusiasts in the state of Michigan, and to bring Camaro and Firebird enthusiasts alike together for some amazing FBody events!
The most important thing to know about the Michigan FBody Association is that we are NOT a club! The Michigan FBody Association is open to everyone, and is a community. Thus, we will have get togethers, casual cruises, events, and such like that, but this is not an exclusive club and it's 100% free to join this site! So what are you waiting for? Register now!
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Does any one know the difference between the Founders Perfromance bolt on Relocation bracket and UMI Performance Relocation brackets besides the $40?
I was going to order them but wondered if there was a benefit to buying the more expensive UMI brackets?
1998 Pontiac Trans Am LS1, Ram Air, White with custom Ghost Flames, Black Leather Interior, T-Tops, T56 Trans, 4.10 Rear End, Spohn Adjustable Torque Arm, Line Lock, Kooks Headers, Kooks ORY Pipe, SLP Loudmouth II catback, LS6 Intake, K&N Air filter, Centerforce Dual friction Clutch, Lowered and "Conklinized"
Founders only offers bolt on brackets where as UMI offers both weld an and bolt on. Not that it matters. 95% of guys buy the bolt on brackets and weld them on for an extra piece of mind.
Last edited by c0ncEpT; September 15th, 2011, 11:32 AM.
Got my brackets in today gonna take the car to a friends house who has an aligment hoist and get the brackes on and adjust my torque are, Hope these help, I was rosting the tires all the way through 3rd gear.
1998 Pontiac Trans Am LS1, Ram Air, White with custom Ghost Flames, Black Leather Interior, T-Tops, T56 Trans, 4.10 Rear End, Spohn Adjustable Torque Arm, Line Lock, Kooks Headers, Kooks ORY Pipe, SLP Loudmouth II catback, LS6 Intake, K&N Air filter, Centerforce Dual friction Clutch, Lowered and "Conklinized"
I have the trak pak torque arm from bmr and that helped but I was wondering if the lowers were worth the money. That might of answered my question. But are your bars pointing down from the rearend or up?
I have the trak pak torque arm from bmr and that helped but I was wondering if the lowers were worth the money. That might of answered my question. But are your bars pointing down from the rearend or up?
from the rearend they are pointed up.. I definately needed relocation brackets, but the brackets themselves did not solve my problem..
For any kind of corner handling you would like to have it level or even a little lower on the body side of lower control arm compared to the rear end side. When I say little I mean generally right around 1 degree or so. If you are looking for straight-line handling and better overall straight-line traction you want the lower control arm to be lower on the rear end side then the body side, this will add the positive anti-squat which improves those characteristics.
Mine are set for straight line..
Last edited by OIF1VET; September 25th, 2011, 01:09 PM.
Sounds like I need some mine might be more than a degree Down and I'm normally going fast in a straight line. I would like it to hook better on the streets as they spin so easy. I've run drag slicks not radials on the street and the hook ALOT better than street radials but I need something to shock the tires harder to get it to set then go. But I also understand that I'm still Gunna have wheel spin, but would like to keep it to a minimum. So do you guys think it would help to have them pointed up? Also what's your pinion if know it off the top your head?
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