I don't know what pads are on my car now, they don't dust at all... We don't have an O'reillys here.. My front rotors look fine, it's the rears(esp the pass rear) that look ate up.. I may just replace the rear rotors..
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What calipers, rotors and pads to get?????
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I usually trust a rotor that has the maximum surface area. If the rotor is drilled or slotted, you're losing the friction area. That being said, I switched all my pads to ceramic and the difference is great. No pulsing pedal and perhaps, if you haven't already, switch your brake hoses to stainless shielded. They provide a little more pressure to the calipers without the give of straight rubber. Russel should carry the lengths you need.sigpic
Why the Hell do I have to press 1 for english?!

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Larry....first thing I would do if flush and refill/bleed the system. Your fluid probably just needs changed. Fresh fluid can make a HUGE difference if you are having a soft pedal. Also, as long as you buy quality drilled and slotted rotors, you will not have to worry about cracking under normal use. I've had mine for 5 years and there are no cracks last time I inspected them. The cracking myth is WAY overhyped on the interweb. Now...if you are road racing alot with them it's another story.sigpicTurbo Charged LS1/T56
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yep I run slotted rotors and they work great, then again I'm not road racing my car every weekend. As for brake pads I love my hawk hps pads and he dust is much much less than the previous pads on had on there they are great no noise either.Doing less with more

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My zinc coated drilled/slotted rotors still look great and no issues for years, but I do not rage on the car either. You can find nice zinc coated sets on the web very cheap.sigpicMODS: SLP DUAL/DUAL EXHAUST, 160 STAT, MTI LID, SHANER S3 T.B., SMOOTH BELLOWS, DESCREENED MAF, TUNNEL BRACE, UMI SFC & PHB, STRANO SWAY BARS, DRILLED/SLOTTED ROTORS, WHISTLER LIGHTS, BLACK BILLET GRILLE w/69'SS EMBLEM, BLACK SMOOTHED TAIL PANEL w/69'SS EMBLEM, BLACK SS HOOD INSERT, INTIMIDATOR SS WHEELS.
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I run EBC Rotors on my truck because the last 3 sets fell apart after getting hot. None of the rotors are made in the USA anymore and the metal that they use in them are junk.
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I changed the fluid 2 years ago.. My pass rear rotor is shot.. Very deep grooves in it.. Not sure what happened to it, drivers rear has some grooves, but not as bad as passenger side.. Fronts look fine.. I am going with Hawk HPS pads, Still undecided on what rotors, looking at some slotted rotors from Strano and steel braided lines..Originally posted by WMCCjames View PostLarry....first thing I would do if flush and refill/bleed the system. Your fluid probably just needs changed. Fresh fluid can make a HUGE difference if you are having a soft pedal. Also, as long as you buy quality drilled and slotted rotors, you will not have to worry about cracking under normal use. I've had mine for 5 years and there are no cracks last time I inspected them. The cracking myth is WAY overhyped on the interweb. Now...if you are road racing alot with them it's another story.sigpic
U.S. Army 1983-2005
11.20@122.37 1.51 60'
Originally posted by WMCCjames
"Plans Subject to change upon Sobering up"
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I want steel braided lines too but they are so damn expensive! Like everybody else said Larry, you won't have a problem with the rotors if your not racing them all the time, but do you really need them?
I think you buy them for the looks plain and simple.
sigpicAnd another thing.....when I gun the motor, I want the whole world to think it's coming to an end.
-Homer Simpson
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Oh, I won't lie, drilled and slotted are for for bling(for me anyways).. I don't race all the time, heck I only put about 2k a year on it.. Looking at these rotors: http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...=193&ModelID=8Originally posted by 1bad83ta View PostI want steel braided lines too but they are so damn expensive! Like everybody else said Larry, you won't have a problem with the rotors if your not racing them all the time, but do you really need them?
I think you buy them for the looks plain and simple. 
Braided lines are expensive, but figure if I am doing pads and rotors, why not?sigpic
U.S. Army 1983-2005
11.20@122.37 1.51 60'
Originally posted by WMCCjames
"Plans Subject to change upon Sobering up"
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I can get this package for $670,Originally posted by WMCCjames View PostBraided lines are money well spent....they firm up the pedal too.
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...=193&ModelID=8
But with these rotors:
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...=193&ModelID=8sigpic
U.S. Army 1983-2005
11.20@122.37 1.51 60'
Originally posted by WMCCjames
"Plans Subject to change upon Sobering up"
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If you are getting rid of the drag setup, do a cts-v upgrade. You should be able to fit them since you have 18s. There was a thread on Ls1tech about doing them on the cheap.
2011 Mustang GT
20" Satin Black AMRs with 305/35 & 275/35 MT Street Radials, Saleen Grille, CS Lower Valance, Roush Axleback, GT500 Spoiler, resonator delete
In Progress: Brembo 6-piston brake upgrade
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thats the problem with going to big brakes , if you do you can't run anything smaller than a 17" wheel.Doing less with more

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^ and even 17s will be a very tight fit, most likely have to run spacers but those big calipers & rotors look so good behind any wheels! I'm definitely doing the upgrade on all 4 when I can buy some custom wheels to fit w/o spacers.
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Which is why I think I am going the route I asked about a few posts up. Same size rotors as stock, going to keep my calipers so I can keep my drag setup...Originally posted by DETROITMUSCLE View Postthats the problem with going to big brakes , if you do you can't run anything smaller than a 17" wheel.sigpic
U.S. Army 1983-2005
11.20@122.37 1.51 60'
Originally posted by WMCCjames
"Plans Subject to change upon Sobering up"
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