1981 Camaro Z28

[MP81]

And considering the shocks back there were something that took hardly any effort to compress...and then didn't rebound back out...sag would go unmanaged.

[bri2203]

And considering the shocks back there were something that took hardly any effort to compress...and then didn't rebound back out...sag would go unmanaged.

The OE shock was likely hydraulic.
You installed a gas charged shock.

[Atrus]

Get it right, guys - It's not "sag" - it's a time-driven factory installed lowering kit. (Can you tell I work in Warranty? Gotta turn the issues into assets)

[MP81]

Get it right, guys - It's not "sag" - it's a time-driven factory installed lowering kit. (Can you tell I work in Warranty? Gotta turn the issues into assets)

Suspension-assisted Stance-correction directive.

[MP81]

Got the lower speedo cable today, but it didn't include any lubricant like it should have. In the interest of time, is there anything that people swear by that I might have that will work just as well?

Otherwise I'll just email Rock Auto and see if they'll send me something.

[TSTONE]

Trans jelly?

[JoeliusZ28]

The cable ib my truck needs to be lubricated as well and people were saying to use medium krill oil, possibly in combination with lithium grease. I havent gotten any further than that in my research though.

[MP81]

The cable ib my truck needs to be lubricated as well and people were saying to use medium krill oil, possibly in combination with lithium grease. I havent gotten any further than that in my research though.

Looks like O'Reilly sells the Dorman graphite oil for speedometer cables: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0073&ppt=C0338

I need an oil filter for the Cobalt anyway, so looks like I'll need to make a stop there to pick both up.

[MP81]

Installed the lower speedo cable today (O'Reilly did, in fact, carry graphite oil/lube for the speedo cable). The end of the upper cable was...less than what I'd call good, but I was able to get it into the new cable, and thread the ends together (though that was also not great on the upper cable). Having the extra length to route was nice, but the converter box puts the cable in a position where I'd be very worried about it kinking if I want it in front of the cat. Had no choice but to go behind the trans and around. The cable is much happier, I just had to mechanic wire it to keep it off the cat's heat shield. Hopefully it stays there, and doesn't melt.







Wheels and tires back on - I torqued the lugs to 90 ft-lbs, as specified by the service manual. I do 100 ft-lbs for all our other vehicles, is it worth just torquing to that, or should I stick with 90?



Nice not having a spare here.


It would also appear that Facebook killed all the other photo links, so I will have to go back and redo them. Cool.

[MP81]

Pulled it out of the garage to try and see if I could get a speed reading - perhaps I wasn't going fast enough (I also had to try not to run into the Cruze), but I didn't see the speedo move. I think the upper cable might be in need of replacement too - or the speedo is seized.

[JoeliusZ28]

sounds like a bundle of joy

[MP81]

Oh you know it. I ordered a new upper cable today.

Whoever realized that an electrical sensor and a wire was a better idea is a genius.

[MP81]

Started working on the upper cable yesterday - the upper end is not wanting to come out from the "channel" behind the cluster, gets stuck towards the back and won't budge. I think it's just a matter of having someone else "modulate" the end to prevent it from getting held up, while someone else pulls it out from below. I texted my brother to see if he's got some free time to come up and give me a hand - good intro into working on cars (other than when we did the head unit, and then speaker/sub install on his car).

Tested the old cable and that thing doesn't even spin, won't even pull out from up top, either.

[Atrus]

If the old cable is shot, can't you just cut it in half?

[MP81]

That's my next option. I'd like to pull it all out as one - I have mechanics wire on both ends to aid in feeding the new cable - but if it won't come out any other way, that is my plan. I'd just tie the wire around the cable just under the dash, and it'll pull up through and out from behind the cluster and then I can tie it to the new cable. Let's just hope I don't forget to put the grommet on the new cable.

The more I think about it, the more sense it makes. Lop off the end, remove the grommet, put the grommet on the same way it came off on the new cable, tie the end of the mechanics wire to the end of the cable (being an end-less cable, it shouldn't come off), pull the cable up and out with the wire, then tie the shit out of the wire to the new cable, and pull it up and through. That's the theory, at least.