1981 Camaro Z28

[JoeliusZ28]

I think the only way you could bypass yours is to convert it to a standard vacuum advance distributor and coil. Which actually might not be a bad idea...

[MP81]

If it works fine, I have no issue leaving it. Just need to confirm if it's actually advancing timing - or something in the carb being weird. Gotta check it with a timing light.

[JoeliusZ28]

Yeah i wouldnt mess with it unless its giving you problems. But seems unanimous from opinions ive read that a mechanical (centrigual spring) and vacuum advance distributor connected to full vacuum is going to give you the best drivability/reliability/power for a street application. I have no idea how good or bad esc systems are in comparison however.

[MP81]

I know my '86 had the same (or similar - the '86 was a screw down, this is clamp down) kind of distributor. But had a bit more advanced of a computer setup (not that it's saying much compared to today's computers ).

[81DaytonaPaceCar]

I think the issue is more of the tire bulge you'll get putting a 255/60 on a 7" rim. It fits and it works - but the tire is happier on a wider wheel.

A 255/60 is actually 0.4" shorter than a 225/70.

And correct - no option to bypass, other than disconnecting the ability for it to electronically advance timing. If my last time running the car was any indicator, I don't think it is artificially advancing timing at idle, bringing up RPM, but may just literally be something sticking in the carb. It was idling at about 1500-2k with the distributor unplugged, and you could see it trying to drop past 1500, but it seemed like something was holding it back. A few revs later, she dropped right to 750 - and idle speed didn't seem to jump up when I reconnected the distributor.

I may be oversimplifying this, but it could be just a sticky choke...dropping down from cold idle to warm?

[MP81]

I may be oversimplifying this, but it could be just a sticky choke...dropping down from cold idle to warm?

My thinking was something simple like that, especially since it seemed to drop right down to a nice 750rpm idle after a few revs.

The choke plate is wide open during my testing, so that seems to be at least functioning correctly.

[81DaytonaPaceCar]

My thinking was something simple like that, especially since it seemed to drop right down to a nice 750rpm idle after a few revs.

The choke plate is wide open during my testing, so that seems to be at least functioning correctly.

Not the plate, what about the float? If the car hasn't been driven in a while, the old gas in the float chamber could have easily gummed up the float. Easy fix with some carb cleaner and even a bit of driving would help...

[MP81]

Not the plate, what about the float? If the car hasn't been driven in a while, the old gas in the float chamber could have easily gummed up the float. Easy fix with some carb cleaner and even a bit of driving would help...

That is entirely possible, since I can't really see down in there too easily.

We'll see if I get to even drive it. My uncle just got the duplicate title today - and the asshats didn't remove the lienholder.

Long story short - sounds like another 4-6 weeks. Because I totally didn't want to ****ing take this to the Dream Cruise or anything...

[81DaytonaPaceCar]

That is entirely possible, since I can't really see down in there too easily.

We'll see if I get to even drive it. My uncle just got the duplicate title today - and the asshats didn't remove the lienholder.

Long story short - sounds like another 4-6 weeks. Because I totally didn't want to ****ing take this to the Dream Cruise or anything...

Honestly, just get it running in the garage a bit...get it up to temp, leave the hood closed, hot day would be good, if it's going to split a hose, better to do it there than anywhere else.

Limit testing can be a good thing in a controlled environment.

New gas, a bit of cleaner, just get the old girl circulating again...pop a beer, pull up a chair, and just watch...

[MP81]

Yup - I have done that before - ironically it was right before I wanted to change the plugs. Not the best order of events.

On a positive note, it seems lately that it hasn't been smoking as much - I think it's finally burning off all that buildup off, and not leaking further.

Also, I need to go pick up some Mobil Super 5000 (which is what I also run in the Cav) 10W-30, and I already have the oil filter. Probably go fill up one of my 5-gallon canisters with gas (nice that it only needs 87) and dump that in, as well.

Hot day meaning Saturday. Going to be nice and toasty then. I'm eyeing the upper radiator hose for replacement. There's a strange divot on it, looks like a great point for failure. I'll grab a picture when I remember to.

[JoeliusZ28]

Not sure what oil that is, but i think you should be using oil with zinc additive. Assuming youve got a tappet cam as well, anyway.

[MP81]

I don't think they switched to a roller in a 305 until 1987, so it should still be a flat-tappet cam. My '86 was as well.

Mobil Super 5000 is their conventional oil. But I don't think it has any kind of zinc additive. I just ran Pennzoil in my '86 - but I didn't have the car long enough to even get a second oil change, I don't believe.

[JoeliusZ28]

Run zinc added oil. Brian sells brad penn at his shop and i believe quaker state also makes a blend if you want a cheaper alternative. Stp zinc supplement would be another option.

[MP81]

What works better - Zinc additive added in with "regular" oil, or Zinc-added oil?

[Atrus]

BOTH! MOAR ZINC! (I honestly have no clue)