Also worth mentioning: the pitch-black plugs I removed only had about a 0.040" gap - whereas spec is 0.045" (what I gapped the new plugs to). I'd guess the last time plugs were changed, nobody bothered to gap them, and they wore down to still 0.005" smaller than factory gap.
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Always nice to start with fresh ignition parts.
Don't forget to coat the bottom of that module with some dielectric grease before installing it.DynoDave
POCI # 72200

1988 Pontiac Trans Am WS6
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Dont plugs normally increase gap over time? Under spec is better than over with plug gap imo. And ditto what Dave said on the module, i didnt do that first time around.-Joel
1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd

WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop
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Originally posted by DynoDave View PostAlways nice to start with fresh ignition parts.
Don't forget to coat the bottom of that module with some dielectric grease before installing it.Sounds like I'll be taking the cap and rotor back off then.Originally posted by JoeliusZ28 View PostDont plugs normally increase gap over time? Under spec is better than over with plug gap imo. And ditto what Dave said on the module, i didnt do that first time around.
Yes, they do.
With them looking that black (probably rich/fouling from so many short starts later in its life in LA), I'm guessing they've been in there for a while, wouldn't that imply they were far under spec when installed?
Gone but not forgotten: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
"You shall ride eternal. Shiny and chrome."
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Something else I noticed and couldn't seem to correct - but the distributor cap definitely sits slightly crooked (horizontally unlevel) on the distributor base. The original one did and so does this new one. Kind of weird.Gone but not forgotten: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
"You shall ride eternal. Shiny and chrome."
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Yes although far under spec isnt likely to cause much of an issue. I was just looking at the chilton manual for my truck and found i under-gapped the new plugs i installed by .010. Runs fine.-Joel
1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd

WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop
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Planning on getting the tires changed soon (probably will be prior to the title, so I'll just drive them up there) - thinking of moving up from the 225/70R15 stock size to a 255/60R15. Anybody ever run this size on a second gen?
If so, will it rub? It's closer to the stock diameter than any of the 235s available.Gone but not forgotten: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
"You shall ride eternal. Shiny and chrome."
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It's worth taking the time to do. The dielectric grease acts to transfer heat out of the module. It's rule #1 when changing those modules to avoid future failures.Originally posted by MP81 View PostSounds like I'll be taking the cap and rotor back off then.
I don't recall if you said you were going to or not, but carrying a spare module is also wise. The old one you are taking out, if it still worked, would make a great spare to toss in the glove box.
These modules have two circuits...one for cranking, the other for run. A CLASSIC failure mode is an engine that cranks, starts, and as soon as you let go of the key, dies. That's the module cutting over from the good crank circuit to the failed run circuit. Just mentioning it so it's stuck in your brain, so that if/when you experience it, maybe it will trigger your memory.DynoDave
POCI # 72200

1988 Pontiac Trans Am WS6
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I have the old one, which still worked fine - and for whatever reason, the box for the one I ordered came with a second one in it.
Thanks for the tip, I'll keep it in the old memory banks - hopefully never requiring access, but if it does, it's there.
Gone but not forgotten: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
"You shall ride eternal. Shiny and chrome."
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From another *****in'-305 owner, thanks for that info Dave!-Joel
1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd

WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop
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Also on this topic - it appears that Discount carries both Radial T/As and Cooper Cobra GTs. From my reading online, the Radial T/A is the better tire (even if it has a 6mph lower speed limit - both are higher than the gear-limited top speed of the car...which is 108Originally posted by MP81 View PostPlanning on getting the tires changed soon (probably will be prior to the title, so I'll just drive them up there) - thinking of moving up from the 225/70R15 stock size to a 255/60R15. Anybody ever run this size on a second gen?
If so, will it rub? It's closer to the stock diameter than any of the 235s available.
), especially in the rain, but is it $50 a tire better? I have no issue spending extra on the tires, as long as it's worth it.
And that's assuming the 255/60s don't rub.Gone but not forgotten: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
"You shall ride eternal. Shiny and chrome."
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Ive never had a bad experience with any BFG and the radial ta is certainly a good enough tire for what this car is capable of. Question is what wheels are you using!!-Joel
1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd

WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop
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The factory 15x7 N90s (what is currently on there) for now (255/60 BFG T/A is good for 7-9" wheels).Originally posted by JoeliusZ28 View PostIve never had a bad experience with any BFG and the radial ta is certainly a good enough tire for what this car is capable of. Question is what wheels are you using!!Gone but not forgotten: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
"You shall ride eternal. Shiny and chrome."
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Post Whore
- August 16th, 2007
- 2881
- Jim
- 2002 Camaro Z28, 1994 Firebird Formula
- Traverse City, MI
- Send PM
I've used the BFG radial ta on a couple cars and had good luck with them
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