Welcome to the Michigan FBody Association website.
The Michigan FBody Association is a centralized website for FBody enthusiasts to discuss what's going on in the Michigan area. MiFbody.com was created to allow for an easy one-stop place to find out what's going on in Michigan as far as FBody events, to find out what clubs are available in your immediate area, and for an easy place to post classifieds for items you want to sell! Our goal was to create a more close-knit community of FBody enthusiasts in the state of Michigan, and to bring Camaro and Firebird enthusiasts alike together for some amazing FBody events!
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Yes and i think to some degree it is but trying to break the cam in at 2500 rpm may not be allowing it much chance to learn.
However, when we did the initial setup on my cousins Dodge it started with the key and ran/idled straight out of the gate. Mine isn't even close to doing that.
Yeah. I think I may have the distributor installed wrong. I could not get the rotor to point to #1 TDC like i wanted. It was landing closer to #3/#5 or the water pump, so I was choosing between two options that both looked wrong.
But if you have the cap off, shouldn't you be able to see the rotor and make sure it's still pointing at #1?
I've never actually dealt with dropping one in, so I've never been entirely sure about that. I'll have to when I change the intake, even if I don't go with a Fitech right away (I probably would, since it's all right there).
Gone but not forgotten: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
Thats the method i was using but the cam teeth would not allow it to point to #1. I could only point to either side of it. IE pointing at #1 had a tooth in the way.
Yeah, dealing with the spiral cut gear on the distributor drive is a PITA. I know you SBC guys dont't want to hear it, but the Mopar V8 dist. drive, which is a slot, is so much easier. You are either 180* out, or spot on. No in between. Of course, you still have to time it, but the distributor install is dummy proof, which is what I need.
That EFI setup looks slick. I'm sure you're going to love it once it gets tuned in.
Somewhat relevant to my interests. I'm thinking about throwing an HT383 cam in the Vortec along with some longtubes and swapping in my 98 PCM over the winter. Towing down to Bristol was ~11mpg average it seems like these things respond well to those mods.
Somewhat relevant to my interests. I'm thinking about throwing an HT383 cam in the Vortec along with some longtubes and swapping in my 98 PCM over the winter. Towing down to Bristol was ~11mpg average it seems like these things respond well to those mods.
The combination of those three things would wake up the vortec big time. I just did a custom tune on my 1998 with HPTuners and the change low rpm torque response was crazy. I haven't quite dialed my 305 in yet but i can already tell its got quite a bit more pep than it used to. I probably could have gone bigger on the cam, it still sounds stock.
Last edited by JoeliusZ28; July 22nd, 2019, 01:54 PM.
The combination of those three things would wake up the vortec big time. I just did a custom tune on my 1998 with HPTuners and the change low rpm torque response was crazy. I haven't quite dialed my 305 in yet but i can already tell its got quite a bit more pep than it used to. I probably could have gone bigger on the cam, it still sounds stock.
Did you use a wideband or just dial in the non-PE tables? I imagine just adjusting the tables to account for the E10 fuel we get now should help quite a bit even if you leave the WOT tables alone. I'd like to leave this truck on 87 so I would think spark could be done on the street too.
Did you use a wideband or just dial in the non-PE tables? I imagine just adjusting the tables to account for the E10 fuel we get now should help quite a bit even if you leave the WOT tables alone. I'd like to leave this truck on 87 so I would think spark could be done on the street too.
Its been at least 10 years since I did that so my memory is a little vague. I didn't have a wideband, I was using the narrowbands where i could. I remember there being a 4 second delay on power enrichment which I zero'd out, and there was also a lot of timing and fuel getting pulled on immediate throttle tip-in that I flattend out. I also up the trans line pressure just a little bit. The combination of all three of those took it from barely being able to do a brake torque to enough torque response I could just stab the gas and it would lay patch and try to grab 2nd gear mid burnout...without any help from the brakes. But it didn't seem like there was anything to gain in the upper RPM WOT, once it was rolling at WOT it felt exactly the same as it did stock.
Last edited by JoeliusZ28; July 26th, 2019, 10:19 AM.
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