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Yeah, I don't know, just like to document the process, always have!
And thanks! To me it makes sense that I can fix it much cheaper than a car payment on a new vehicle, plus it allows me to do what I enjoy (even if I am constantly swearing at the car, it's the accomplishment at the end that makes it all worth it).
Gone but not forgotten: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
So I've discovered that the vehicle now likes to spray brake fluid from the left rear end of the vehicle - however, with my luck, it is not the flexible hose, but rather the hard line that goes from the flex hose to the drum itself.
Since it appears pre-made hard line replacements are hard/impossible to come by (or even used ones for that matter), it looks like my main option is to buy brake tubing, buy a bender, and a flare tool and make my own.
I'm not much interested in this from a time and effort perspective. I hardly have time as it is with packing up to move and what not, so I'd prefer this just be a swap. So, unless I can find something on eBay, would I be able to use a braided stainless line in place of the hard line? If I have to do it on both sides, I don't really mind. I'm planning to replace the wheel cylinders and do drums/shoes just as preventative (necessary, perhaps) maintenance. Wheel cylinders for the car are about $3 each, and considering one of the current ones has a bleeder already broken off from one of the previous owners, I have no way to bleed both back brakes. Parts are cheap, so I don't mind.
So am I able to use some braided line, or do I have to scour the internets for someone selling a pre-bent hard line?
I can post a picture of the hard-line in need of replacement when I get home.
Gone but not forgotten: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
I've known some people to send the original lines in to Classic Tube and they well make replacements based off that. They are not the cheap option though.
um go buy a piece of brake line with the fittings you need already on it, so no flaring is required then buy a $5 tool to bend it or use your knee, and bolt it back in... They sell brake line in all different lengths at your local auto parts store. About a 20 minute fix.
um go buy a piece of brake line with the fittings you need already on it, so no flaring is required then buy a $5 tool to bend it or use your knee, and bolt it back in... They sell brake line in all different lengths at your local auto parts store. About a 20 minute fix.
Okay, didn't know they sold it with the fittings on there already. I can measure the length needed with a string to ensure I get the correct length hard line.
Fittings should be a set standard?
Gone but not forgotten: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
Okay, didn't know they sold it with the fittings on there already. I can measure the length needed with a string to ensure I get the correct length hard line.
Fittings should be a set standard?
First is it a complete line, where you can remove it completely? If so, then take that with you get the correct fittings and bend the new one. If you have to cut the line (in the middle of it) then you might need to flare and put a fitting on, or if you dont care 100% use a compression fitting (I have used them before, they work fine). But if you can remove the entire line that is your best bet. Then you can bend/route it on your own.
First is it a complete line, where you can remove it completely? If so, then take that with you get the correct fittings and bend the new one. If you have to cut the line (in the middle of it) then you might need to flare and put a fitting on, or if you dont care 100% use a compression fitting (I have used them before, they work fine). But if you can remove the entire line that is your best bet. Then you can bend/route it on your own.
My plan is to remove the whole line. The line runs from the wheel cylinder to the flex hose at the torsion beam. I'll just spray it with PB Blaster daily for about a week, and buy a set of line wrenches, and hope that it comes off.
Gone but not forgotten: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
Might need use some heat. I bought a MAP gas torch with a trigger nozzle a while back and it has been the best $45 I have spent in a very long time. I've always used MAP or the oxyacetylene torch, but having the trigger and electric ignition is awesome.
Brake lines should have standard inverted flare fittings. They have lengths of all sizes. I'm not a fan of looping line so I tend to get two sections and using a union, unless a single line fits the bill (obviously)
Long story short, and as I anticipated, no matter of beating and prying on these things would make them budge. There was movement at the studs while prying, but the center stayed put. As time isn't the most abundant thing right now with moving and what not, I bought myself a brake drum puller. Nothing wrong with buying new tools, even specialty ones.
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Yesterday the tool arrived, so I set to work to at least get the drums off.
The right rear drum after my failed attempts on Sunday - even the air hammer didn't help.
New drum puller tool. Talk about beefy.
First drum off! What a noise it makes when it finally pops loose.
Other side off. Definitely a useful tool, well worth the expense.
These drums are quite a bit different in design to those on the Cobalt, so it'll be interesting reassembling them. Leaving the left side assembled so I can reference it when I inevitably forget how it goes back together.
Gone but not forgotten: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
The last thing this car probably needed was to be modifed, but meh, screw it. One of my brothers has a '97 Cavalier and bought an ebay cold air intake (AEM clone), but bought it for a '98-'02 model - which is quite different from the '97. So he offered it to me, and I figured, what the hell, this car can use any extra power it can get, and it's cheap.
And quite honestly, the weight savings from removing the massive stock resonator and air box was worth it anyway. Plus it sounds cooler, so there's that too, I suppose. It's still slow.
Better look out, real racecar now that is has Camaro seats.
Easy swap - move the tracks over and they bolt right in. I even found $0.13 taking the driver's seat frame off. And the side shield was even the same - a good thing since the driver-side Camaro seat was missing that piece.
Cleaned up the Camaro seats earlier today before starting. Cav and Camaro seat compared.
Passenger seat in:
Both seats in. Now I'll at least be held in side to side more when the body rolls more than a lifted Jeep.
Gone but not forgotten: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
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357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven.
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