Well, I'm off work Friday, so I'm going to attempt to get the oil pan swapped Friday. Busy all weekend, but Friday I should have enough free time to get it done. I don't see it taking more than 4-5 hours, but I'm going to allot 6-8 hours for completion. I know how these things work. . . Lol
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'93 Formula "Sleeper"
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Post Slut
- December 9th, 2011
- 5919
- Michael H
- 1989 Iroc-Z Convertible/1998 Z28
- Greenville, MI
- Die Maker
- Send PM
So true.Originally posted by 93formulalt1 View PostI know how these things work. . . Lol
1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc
2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver
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I don't have any plans as of yet for this weekend Nick. If you want you can bring it out here to work on it. Up to you though. I know it would be far from home if you couldn't get it back together.95' Formula: A4, 3.23'S, K&N CAI, Granatelli MAF, Trickflow Elbow, tune from previous owner. Best 1/4 of 13.91.

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It's going back together. If you are free on Friday, I could use some help. Would prefer to do it at my place, since the last time it cost me the tow fee to get the car home.Originally posted by CJOFORM View PostI don't have any plans as of yet for this weekend Nick. If you want you can bring it out here to work on it. Up to you though. I know it would be far from home if you couldn't get it back together.
I could probably pick you up, however, and give you a ride home.Nick H.
Current MIFC Vice President
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aka "Plum Nuts"
- June 4th, 2008
- 5699
- Larry Meissen
- 1998 Trans Am convertible, 2012 Camaro V6 auto IBM
- Macomb, Michigan
- Realtor
- Send PM
I replaced a new ICM and installed spacers with no effect. My next thing is to replace plugs and wires. 1,3,5,7 side seems ok when data logging right side the Lterm trims go high at idle and deacceleration under load they even out at around 125-130. I already replaced 1,3, & 8 plugs, this weekend if its not to hot I plan on replacing 2,4,6, and wires. (I'm a fair weather mechanic LOL)sigpic
1998 Trans Am Convertible A4 - WS6 hood, WS6 air lid, WS6 rims, drilled/slotted rotors.
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Picked up some parts today. . . Oil pan gasket, water pump drive seal (that's leaking bad also), plugs, wires, oil, oil filter, and a couple gallons of full strength coolant. Hoping to get the oil pan removed tonight, but it's not looking good, all of my help has disappeared on me. . .Nick H.
Current MIFC Vice President
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Don't forget to use this when you do the water pump drive seal: http://www.ebay.com/itm/92-97-LT1-L9...282e74&vxp=mtrsigpic
355 LT1 M6. 232/240 LE cam. 21* Trick Flow heads. Fully ported intake. 58mm TPIS tb. 42# SVO Injectors. LS7 Lifters. Moser 9" TrueTrac w/ 4.22 gears. True Duals. UMI Suspension. LS1 brake swap. Dr. Phil tuned 400ish rwhp. Money Pit.
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I'm going to use an appropriately sized socket to press the seal in. . . Works just as well, and doesn't require spending money I don't have. LolOriginally posted by ryanwarby01 View PostDon't forget to use this when you do the water pump drive seal: http://www.ebay.com/itm/92-97-LT1-L9...282e74&vxp=mtrNick H.
Current MIFC Vice President
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That tool is nice though. Gradually changes the diameter. I think a 3/8 socket works too, cannot remember the right size.Last edited by CJOFORM; September 6th, 2012, 11:20 PM.95' Formula: A4, 3.23'S, K&N CAI, Granatelli MAF, Trickflow Elbow, tune from previous owner. Best 1/4 of 13.91.

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Well, pulled everything apart today, and sure enough, the water pump drive seal was trashed. Oil was inside the opti, which made it abundantly clear that the bulk of the oil leaking was coming from there. Pulled the front of the engine apart, cleaned out the opti until I can afford to replace it, left the oil pan alone until I have the time and facilities to pull the motor and re-gasket the whole thing, and replaced the drive seal (took two seals to get it on without ripping/flipping or otherwise becoming damaged. . .
Should have it back together tomorrow and I'll report back on the oil leak situation. Engine coming out after the end of the cruising season, and it's going to get some parts thrown at it while it's mounted on the engine stand.
I also decided to finally purchase a Haynes manual for the firebird, and apparently I didn't use enough RTV on the intake gasket around the coolant passageways, so that is now the #1 possible cause of the milkshake issue. . . Going to tackle that after I move at the end of the month, probably over the winter after the '94 is squared away. I'll figure out what to do with it after I get it fixed. Maybe I'll keep it and go a different direction than I originally planned to go with it, maybe I'll get it running and sell it for a quick couple grand, maybe I'll just drive it until it breaks again.
Oe thing is for sure though, having a 2 car garage is going to be quite nice, I'll get the wood burner installed, stock up on firewood, and keep myself working on the car all winter. It's going to be pretty sweet. Planning on building a shed behind the garage for storing whichever car isn't being worked on at the time, but that's not going to happen until next summer, so one of these cars is going to be parked outside through winter.
Hoping to make it to Woodward tomorrow night or next weekend, I just hope the oil leak is gone, I'm sure the folks at AE won't appreciate an f-body pissing in their driveway. HahaNick H.
Current MIFC Vice President
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Let me know if you're at AE tomorrow, I'll be in Birmingham and planning on going out to WW for a few.Originally posted by 93formulalt1 View PostWell, pulled everything apart today, and sure enough, the water pump drive seal was trashed. Oil was inside the opti, which made it abundantly clear that the bulk of the oil leaking was coming from there. Pulled the front of the engine apart, cleaned out the opti until I can afford to replace it, left the oil pan alone until I have the time and facilities to pull the motor and re-gasket the whole thing, and replaced the drive seal (took two seals to get it on without ripping/flipping or otherwise becoming damaged. . .
Should have it back together tomorrow and I'll report back on the oil leak situation. Engine coming out after the end of the cruising season, and it's going to get some parts thrown at it while it's mounted on the engine stand.
I also decided to finally purchase a Haynes manual for the firebird, and apparently I didn't use enough RTV on the intake gasket around the coolant passageways, so that is now the #1 possible cause of the milkshake issue. . . Going to tackle that after I move at the end of the month, probably over the winter after the '94 is squared away. I'll figure out what to do with it after I get it fixed. Maybe I'll keep it and go a different direction than I originally planned to go with it, maybe I'll get it running and sell it for a quick couple grand, maybe I'll just drive it until it breaks again.
Oe thing is for sure though, having a 2 car garage is going to be quite nice, I'll get the wood burner installed, stock up on firewood, and keep myself working on the car all winter. It's going to be pretty sweet. Planning on building a shed behind the garage for storing whichever car isn't being worked on at the time, but that's not going to happen until next summer, so one of these cars is going to be parked outside through winter.
Hoping to make it to Woodward tomorrow night or next weekend, I just hope the oil leak is gone, I'm sure the folks at AE won't appreciate an f-body pissing in their driveway. Haha
Sent from my Pantech Breakout using Tapatalk
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About that rtv and gasket. Just remembered we are working on a bastard lt1 and not a gen1 sbc
No coolant flows through the intake so theres no way for a bad intake gasket to leak coolant.
95' Formula: A4, 3.23'S, K&N CAI, Granatelli MAF, Trickflow Elbow, tune from previous owner. Best 1/4 of 13.91.

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