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1996 Camaro Z28 LT1 Project

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  • We'll see if that ends up happening or not...right now it looks like it might be out of budget.

    1996 Camaro Z28 cam, heads, stall, and a few other goodies
    Alumni Member, MSU Racing Club
    THREE-PEAT MiFbody Meet & Greet "Longest Hauler Award" 2010, 2011, 2012
    Originally posted by JasonH
    It's amazing what you can get done when you throw copious amounts of money at something.

    Comment


    • Originally posted by alone_and_insane View Post
      First 2500-2800 is barely anything, now 3200 is barely anything? Where does it end??? I guess I'd like to err more on the side of being lower. Like I said before, two different transmission shops drilled it into my head that that high of a stall is idiotic. Guess I still haven't gotten over that.

      Where would be a good place to look for one of these converters? I saw some on ebay for around $400, and I saw Yank converters online upwards of $700 (!)
      Its expensive for a good converter period. You pay a junk price and you get junk! Yank, Vig, CricleD, PTC, ect are all good companys to deal with.


      Comment


      • Those two transmission shops must be really old school -- ask anyone with an LS1 what a normal converter is for cammed LS1s. From what I've seen LS1 guys usually get converters starting at 4000 rpm.
        - Brian Meissen
        Owner, MiFBody.com
        Administrator, LTxTech.com


        1994 Camaro LT1 Transplant - 357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven.
        2022 Camaro LT1 - "Cherry Bomb 2"
        Michigan FBody Meet & Greet Car Show 2022
        June 4th, 2022 - 9am to 3pm!!!
        The HUB Stadium, Auburn Hills, MI

        Comment


        • Originally posted by c0ncEpT View Post
          Its expensive for a good converter period. You pay a junk price and you get junk! Yank, Vig, CricleD, PTC, ect are all good companys to deal with.
          So the brands to look for are Yank, Circle D, PTC, and was that supposed to be "ECT" or "etc" as in "et cetera?" Thoughts on a used one? If a new one is $500-600, I'd feel better about myself dishing out $300-400 for a slightly used one. Also, can an LS1 converter be used on an LT1?

          1996 Camaro Z28 cam, heads, stall, and a few other goodies
          Alumni Member, MSU Racing Club
          THREE-PEAT MiFbody Meet & Greet "Longest Hauler Award" 2010, 2011, 2012
          Originally posted by JasonH
          It's amazing what you can get done when you throw copious amounts of money at something.

          Comment


          • Starter t.c for LS1 is 3600

            Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2

            Comment


            • http://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-clas...-3600-lt1.html

              Isn't this a member here?

              1996 Camaro Z28 cam, heads, stall, and a few other goodies
              Alumni Member, MSU Racing Club
              THREE-PEAT MiFbody Meet & Greet "Longest Hauler Award" 2010, 2011, 2012
              Originally posted by JasonH
              It's amazing what you can get done when you throw copious amounts of money at something.

              Comment


              • Also found this one:

                http://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-clas...converter.html

                1996 Camaro Z28 cam, heads, stall, and a few other goodies
                Alumni Member, MSU Racing Club
                THREE-PEAT MiFbody Meet & Greet "Longest Hauler Award" 2010, 2011, 2012
                Originally posted by JasonH
                It's amazing what you can get done when you throw copious amounts of money at something.

                Comment


                • Theres a pile of good converter companies, it all really depends on how much coin you are willing todrop... ptc,fti,ati,neil chance,lenny atultimate,yank,vig etc... personally if I were you I would get a yank, out of the box, they seem to be a good converter. A ,3600 would be nice for you...

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by alone_and_insane View Post
                    Of course, all this is on top of the engine rebuild. I also plan on replacing the steering shaft (LS1 upgrade) and painting the engine bay while it's empty. Debating tubular k-member. I know it will make life easier, but man they're expensive. Already have opti and nearly new (probably less than 1k miles) lifters. Also, will 1.6rr's require different valve covers for clearance? I hope not, because I just got mine powdercoated and like the looks of them more than probably any other options I've seen.
                    Originally posted by Lucky SOB View Post
                    @DRYSUMP for engine bay painting price. I know it was under $1k though. But we did all of the prep work including stripping all the lines, wires, etc out of the way. We then sanded the entire bay up to 600 grit I think. Kolin will remember better than I.
                    Get a tubular K-member, it's worth every cent and you will be so happy you got it when you're put everything back together! As far as painting the engine bay goes Fred is pretty spot on. We removed everything (pics below), cleaned the engine bay with a shit ton of enamel reducer, ground off any surface rust, then sanded with 240>400>600, then wiped everything back down with more enamel reducer. If you go to the extent I did and take it to a quality paint shop the rest of the painting (primer, paint, clear) should be around $500ish.

                    DSC_0096.JPG

                    photobucket-44241-1356976785109.jpg

                    sigpic
                    No longer your average SS

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by dawdaw View Post
                      Theres a pile of good converter companies, it all really depends on how much coin you are willing todrop... ptc,fti,ati,neil chance,lenny atultimate,yank,vig etc... personally if I were you I would get a yank, out of the box, they seem to be a good converter. A ,3600 would be nice for you...
                      This^

                      Buying a used converter can be alright. Again just make sure its a quality converter.


                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by c0ncEpT View Post
                        This^

                        Buying a used converter can be alright. Again just make sure its a quality converter.
                        Are either of those two I posted what you'd consider a "quality converter?"

                        1996 Camaro Z28 cam, heads, stall, and a few other goodies
                        Alumni Member, MSU Racing Club
                        THREE-PEAT MiFbody Meet & Greet "Longest Hauler Award" 2010, 2011, 2012
                        Originally posted by JasonH
                        It's amazing what you can get done when you throw copious amounts of money at something.

                        Comment


                        • TCI is junk. Revmax you'll get mixed opinions on. Personally, I'd hold out for a used high-end converter vs. buying a value brand. A converter is too important of a piece in your combo to cut corners on, IMO.

                          Comment


                          • What are the quality metrics for a converter? i.e., what makes a TCI "junk," and what do people like/dislike about whatever converter they're running?

                            1996 Camaro Z28 cam, heads, stall, and a few other goodies
                            Alumni Member, MSU Racing Club
                            THREE-PEAT MiFbody Meet & Greet "Longest Hauler Award" 2010, 2011, 2012
                            Originally posted by JasonH
                            It's amazing what you can get done when you throw copious amounts of money at something.

                            Comment


                            • I've always heard a ton of complaints about the reliability of them over the years. I have one that we ran in my dad's car that I was trying to sell and we can't even give the damn thing away. TCI and B&M converters/transmissions are the only two I've consistently heard to stay away from.

                              Comment


                              • I paid around 900 for my rebuild. That was taking the motor apart, cleaning everything, painting block, put it back together with new bearings and seals. Also came with head and intake bolts. Dowker Race Engines in Charlotte MI.

                                Hotcam kit was 560

                                Heads (valve job) was 140, plus 100 to have them sandblasted (clean)

                                Tune was 75 (I had a previous tune by ion)

                                GM opti was 200

                                Probably 300 in random extras


                                If I was in your shoes I would be either doing a base 350 rebuild with hot cam like I did or 5.3 LS swap. As awesome as the AI kits are, if your motor needs any kind of repair or more parts that I did, put it into Lsx.

                                I wanted a 5.3 swap and still do. Not that I regret my motor(its a massively fun car now) I am over the LT1 platform and in my head Lsx requires less maintenance.
                                1998 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 - 6 Speed

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