1996 Camaro Z28 LT1 Project

[Fox Slaughter]

You do know a lockup is controlled by the PCM right?
So you can tell it to lock up at a certain mph.

[alone_and_insane]

converters are great but when you get up in the high stall range they make alot of heat in the trans

Yeah, I know that. I already planned on an auxiliary trans cooler and possibly a trans temp gauge.

You do know a lockup is controlled by the PCM right?
So you can tell it to lock up at a certain mph.

I thought "lockup" referred to the turbine being locked to the housing, so the turbine and the impeller (that is, the engine output and the trans input) speed is the same. How would that be electronically controlled by the PCM?

Forgive me if these questions seem rather elementary. Torque converters never really made a whole lot of sense to me. I understand planetary gearsets and apply elements and all that good stuff, but converters are still sort of fuzzy.

[Boost Addict]

Yeah, I know that. I already planned on an auxiliary trans cooler and possibly a trans temp gauge.



I thought "lockup" referred to the turbine being locked to the housing, so the turbine and the impeller (that is, the engine output and the trans input) speed is the same. How would that be electronically controlled by the PCM?

Forgive me if these questions seem rather elementary. Torque converters never really made a whole lot of sense to me. I understand planetary gearsets and apply elements and all that good stuff, but converters are still sort of fuzzy.

No, you are thinking of stall. There is a clutch inside the torque converter and a switch in the transmission. Lock up applies that clutch and stops torque converter slippage.

[c0ncEpT]

Was the car hitting the rev limiter? If not it was probably just laying over due to the lack of power from the spun bearing. Transmission is probably fine.

[alone_and_insane]

No, you are thinking of stall. There is a clutch inside the torque converter and a switch in the transmission. Lock up applies that clutch and stops torque converter slippage.

Yeah, that's what I was referring to. I thought that clutch inside the torque converter locks the impeller to the housing so they're spinning at the same speed. The housing spins at the same speed as the flexplate, and the impeller spins the transmission. How is that clutch actuated?

Was the car hitting the rev limiter? If not it was probably just laying over due to the lack of power from the spun bearing. Transmission is probably fine.

No, I backed out of the throttle before that. Good to know, thanks. If the transmission was messed up, there would've been hell to pay haha

[c0ncEpT]

Yeah, that's what I was referring to. I thought that clutch inside the torque converter locks the impeller to the housing so they're spinning at the same speed. The housing spins at the same speed as the flexplate, and the impeller spins the transmission. How is that clutch actuated?

The clutch is actuated by a solenoid in the transmission. The input shaft has a hole in it(how the converter gets fluid) and when the lock up clutch solenoid is actuated it releases the pressure in the input shaft which allows the clutch to engage. At least this is how I understand it to work.

[alone_and_insane]

Maybe I should forget the cam and rebuild and go all-in to try to get some big speed shop to use my car for a Gen V LT1 swap

[Fish-man]

Maybe I should forget the cam and rebuild and go all-in to try to get some big speed shop to use my car for a Gen V LT1 swap

LT1 for an LT1.... that would be cool...probably a year out until we see a new LT1 swap though

[alone_and_insane]

LT1 for an LT1.... that would be cool...probably a year out until we see a new LT1 swap though

A guy can dream, can't he? haha

[nascarnate326]

ls 4.8 single turbo build!

[alone_and_insane]

lol, no

I think at this point I'm thinking I'm going to stay with stock heads. It sounds like I can hit that 350 number with cam only fairly easily. Now I just need to find a garage to work on this thing...

[Fox Slaughter]

Yes as stated a solenoid operates and activates the clutch which then basically makes the torque convert same as a manual a solid piece or so to speak.

"Torque converter slippage is important during acceleration, but it becomes a liability once the vehicle reaches cruising speed. That's why virtually all modern torque converters use a lock-up clutch.

The purpose of the lockup clutch is to directly connect the engine and the transmission once slippage is no longer needed. When the lockup clutch is engaged, a plate attached to the turbine is hydraulically pushed up against the front cover (which, you will recall, is connected to the impeller), creating a solid connection between the engine and transmission. Having the engine and transmission directly connected lowers the engine speed for a given vehicle speed, which increases fuel economy."

http://www.bankspower.com/techarticl...que-Converters

That plate is moved by a solenoid which is controlled by the PCM, on transmissions that have lockup.

[alone_and_insane]

So I'm thinking my best option will be taking the car to a self-storage facility nearby and doing the work there. By the looks of it, a 10x20 storage space will run me about $140-$150/month. I know somebody with an engine hoist I could probably borrow, so if I get the storage space figured out between now and then, hopefully I can start going to town on this by next weekend.

[alone_and_insane]

Looking at cams, I must say that the CC503 is looking pretty good right about now. [MENTION=193]meissen[/MENTION], isn't that what you're running? From what I've been seeing, that should put me solidly in that 325-350whp range, with very good driveability. Thoughts? Also, where should I be shopping for this? I haven't had any luck on LS1tech. Hawk's Third Gen is the cheapest I've seen so far.

Right now I'm looking at for my generic parts list:

Cam
hardened pushrods (stock length?)
1.6rr's
valve springs
Impala head gaskets
timing chain
timing cover gasket
oil pan (mine's pretty rusty/beat up)
Converter (3000+ stall)
aux trans cooler

Of course, all this is on top of the engine rebuild. I also plan on replacing the steering shaft (LS1 upgrade) and painting the engine bay while it's empty. Debating tubular k-member. I know it will make life easier, but man they're expensive. Already have opti and nearly new (probably less than 1k miles) lifters. Also, will 1.6rr's require different valve covers for clearance? I hope not, because I just got mine powdercoated and like the looks of them more than probably any other options I've seen.

[meissen]

To be honest if I could do it all over again, Peter, I would go with a cam kit from Advanced Inductions that is comparable to the CC503 or what [MENTION=254]JoeliusZ28[/MENTION] has. I think it's a lot better package and it comes with everything you need.

Ai Complete HR Cam Kit:

• Ai Billet Steel LTx Camshaft
• Performance Springs Inc. MaxLife Beehive Springs
• CompCams Beehive Spring Steel Retainers
• Machined & Hardened Steel Locks / Keepers
• CompCams Hardened Steel Spring Locators
• OEM Quality Steel Jacketed Viton Seals
• K-Line Valve Seal Installation Driver
• ARP 7/16" Pro Series Rocker Studs
• CompCams 7702 Pushrod Length Checking Tool
• CompCams 1605 Ultra Pro-Mag Rocker Arms - 1.6 Ratio
• Ai Hardened & Black Oxided Steel Guide Plates
• Ai 4130 One Piece Chrome Moly Hardened Pushrods 5/16" x 7.XX" .080" Wall
• Fel-Pro Gasket Kit - Timing Cover gasket, Water Pump gaskets, and Crank/Opti/Pump drive seals
• Fel-Pro 1284 Intake Manifold Gaskets w/RTV
  
  Cost: $1295
  
  http://www.advancedinduction.com/LTX/AiLTxCamKit.php