cam looks entirely fine to me, reuse it.
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Meissen's LT1 Rebuild Thread
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hoping for the best here man goodluck yo yaThe Original
Originally posted by 81DaytonaPaceCar
Can you argue that it's "revolutionary"? Perhaps. Just because it's "new" and "different" doesn't mean it's the greatest thing since sliced bread.
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Thank you sir.- Brian Meissen
Owner, MiFBody.com
Administrator, LTxTech.com

1994 Camaro LT1 Transplant -
357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven. 
2022 Camaro LT1 - "Cherry Bomb 2"Michigan FBody Meet & Greet Car Show 2022
June 4th, 2022 - 9am to 3pm!!!
The HUB Stadium, Auburn Hills, MI
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With a roller cam you really only need to use oil on the camshaft,to prime it remove the distributor stub,get a oil pump primer and hook up to a drill motor and prime until oil starts coming out the push rods,also pour oil over your rocker arms before start up.dont let to much time go before doing all this before start up.you could also take the oil pump apart and prime it that way.pack full of stp oil treatment.
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aka "Plum Nuts"
- June 4th, 2008
- 5699
- Larry Meissen
- 1998 Trans Am convertible, 2012 Camaro V6 auto IBM
- Macomb, Michigan
- Realtor
- Send PM
Yep I think our down fall was the lack of an effective oil prime, then starting the engine without the flash done for the computer to know the injectors. So poor oil prim then starting and oil imediately thinned and there you go.sigpic
1998 Trans Am Convertible A4 - WS6 hood, WS6 air lid, WS6 rims, drilled/slotted rotors.
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aka "Plum Nuts"
- June 4th, 2008
- 5699
- Larry Meissen
- 1998 Trans Am convertible, 2012 Camaro V6 auto IBM
- Macomb, Michigan
- Realtor
- Send PM
No the rings looked great, no discoloring, only 1 seemed to have the oil ring kinda stuck. The pistons looked good to no abnormal wear or scratches.Originally posted by WMCCjames View PostHey Larry....were there any broken rings when you took the pistons out?
All the real damage was to the mains and a couple of rod bearings.Last edited by 98blackbeauty; April 30th, 2009, 08:08 PM.sigpic
1998 Trans Am Convertible A4 - WS6 hood, WS6 air lid, WS6 rims, drilled/slotted rotors.
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most places will assemble the motor for $250 or at least the guy up my way does, guts heads pan and then prime, put on intake, then take it home finish the rest then drop in wire up and fire up. that way all the mic work will be correct with no excess space.sigpic
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didn't prime shit on my rebuild and i had it down to pistons and a block.Originally posted by Plum Nuts View PostYep I think our down fall was the lack of an effective oil prime, then starting the engine without the flash done for the computer to know the injectors. So poor oil prim then starting and oil imediately thinned and there you go.
I just slapped it all together, put some oil in the filter and the Block after it was in the car and started right up.
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Yeah - I don't think it had anything with anything you guys did.
I think there was a hidden issue that you guys weren't aware of, and it just played out how it would've whether you primed it right or started it tuned or not.Gone but not forgotten: 1986 Chevrolet Camaro IROC-Z
"You shall ride eternal. Shiny and chrome."
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I would suggest following a "break-in" period and for example start with 10-30 dino-oil and a GOOD filter for the first hour or under 100 miles. then change oil and filter with 10-30 dino again and run about 500 miles max. and change again. Maybe once more for 500 and then switch to a 10-30 synthetic. I have heard people talk of the clogged filter right after a few starts on a rebuilt engine, the metal will wear until things get seated and that is normal but you need to remove it. stock up on oil and filters and monitor the hell out of it.sigpicMODS: SLP DUAL/DUAL EXHAUST, 160 STAT, MTI LID, SHANER S3 T.B., SMOOTH BELLOWS, DESCREENED MAF, TUNNEL BRACE, UMI SFC & PHB, STRANO SWAY BARS, DRILLED/SLOTTED ROTORS, WHISTLER LIGHTS, BLACK BILLET GRILLE w/69'SS EMBLEM, BLACK SMOOTHED TAIL PANEL w/69'SS EMBLEM, BLACK SS HOOD INSERT, INTIMIDATOR SS WHEELS.
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This time around, i highly suggest taking the time the motor needs to be built right. After all is said and done, what it comes down to is anything that worth doing is worth doing right, even if it seems tedious with all the oil changing, priming (perhaps plastigaging [if you put the bearings together yourself]). Let this be the last you have to do it.sigpic
Why the Hell do I have to press 1 for english?!

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Oh no doubt - I already told my dad we're going to change the oil after we get it idling and in closed loop for 5-10 minutes. Then we'll change the oil after 100 miles, then after 500, and then after 1000.Originally posted by SSTODD View PostI would suggest following a "break-in" period and for example start with 10-30 dino-oil and a GOOD filter for the first hour or under 100 miles. then change oil and filter with 10-30 dino again and run about 500 miles max. and change again. Maybe once more for 500 and then switch to a 10-30 synthetic. I have heard people talk of the clogged filter right after a few starts on a rebuilt engine, the metal will wear until things get seated and that is normal but you need to remove it. stock up on oil and filters and monitor the hell out of it.- Brian Meissen
Owner, MiFBody.com
Administrator, LTxTech.com

1994 Camaro LT1 Transplant -
357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven. 
2022 Camaro LT1 - "Cherry Bomb 2"Michigan FBody Meet & Greet Car Show 2022
June 4th, 2022 - 9am to 3pm!!!
The HUB Stadium, Auburn Hills, MI
Comment
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aka "Plum Nuts"
- June 4th, 2008
- 5699
- Larry Meissen
- 1998 Trans Am convertible, 2012 Camaro V6 auto IBM
- Macomb, Michigan
- Realtor
- Send PM
but how long did it sit apart, this engine I think sat for 1 1/5 years without turning over. There was oil in the engine when we brought it home, did not think to check it for debrie when we drained it. We looked at oil for anti freeze and how clean it was.Originally posted by Kwazrollinz28 View Postdidn't prime shit on my rebuild and i had it down to pistons and a block.
I just slapped it all together, put some oil in the filter and the Block after it was in the car and started right up.sigpic
1998 Trans Am Convertible A4 - WS6 hood, WS6 air lid, WS6 rims, drilled/slotted rotors.
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