Project Vette Power!

[LSxDreamer]

I'll probably sell the heads cheap and let someone rework them.

But I have a question... So I got the trans and engine separated and then I got the oil pan, baffle, and pick-up tube off. The pan and pick-up tube are both in excellent condition but the baffle got a little beat up. It didn't get torn it just got pushed down where the piston exploded and would seem to work fine but I wanted to get your guys opinion. I know if I used it that it won't hit the rotating assembly but was wondering if it was going to give me oiling issues, I mean it's only main purpose is to prevent bublling in the oil right? Here are some pics, I took what it should look like and what it looks like now. Only the the rear part has been bent, it still bolts up fine.

[DETROITMUSCLE]

I don't really see that being a problem but maybe someone else will chime in and give a more definite answer

[LSxDreamer]

Ok so I got the L92 cam out of the block and noticed a small dip in the first cam bearing. Nothing major but enough that I might as well replace them while I am here. My question is if the Rod Bearings and Main Bearings are in great shape am I OK to reuse them... Also when I put it back to together if I am using all of the same parts do I need to get it balanced... The reason I ask is because the guy at a machine shop here in Battle Creek said that I have to take the crank, rods, and pistons out to change the cam bearings.

[DETROITMUSCLE]

do it right and replace all the bearings IMO.

[MunsterZ28]

the way things have been going around here replace all them bearings man

[98blackbeauty]

Yeah replace bearings all it takes is one tiny piece of metal in the oil to start the down hill process.

[sman]

The deflector should be fine, its just to keep oil from splashing up on the crank and getting flung all over the place, just make sure it clears everything, rotate the motor by hand and make sure the crank and rods clear it, and you should be fine.

[LSxDreamer]

Well I sent a PM to Creight on some more parts. The only reason I was asking is supposedly there are only 2500 miles on the motor, but replacing them will give me a better peace of mind that everything is good in the bottom end.

[MunsterZ28]

lol and u cant put a dollar amount on peace of mind

[LSxDreamer]

You got that right Fred!

Well a little update, I am going to be replacing all of the bearings and piston rings so I took the block apart tonight. By the looks of it there seems to have been more than 2500 miles on this engine. nothing bad but there is some grudge and grim that I wouldn't expect with a engine this new. But anyways she is all stripped down and ready to go to the machine shop to get hot tanked, cam bearings installed and the crank polished.

Which brings me to two questions... When I got everything apart and was taking all of the sensors out I noticed this small plastic plug in the back of the engine, I don't know what it is but I don't think that it would be good for it to get hot tanked... Any ideas???

Secondly when I took the rod caps off I noticed the the rod bolt doesn't completely come out of the bottom half of the rod journal. I didn't want to pry them out and risk f'ing anything up, but I need to get them out so I can put the Katech rod bolts in. Is this normal with all LSx Engines or is this with the Gen IV engines...

Any help would be appreciated, I hope to get the machine work done Friday or Saturday so that I can put the engine back together this weekend. My ULTIMATE goal is to have the drivetrain back in the car next weekend. Wish me luck... or just come over and help me damn it!!! haha!

Sleeping... shhh!!!


Sensor



And here is a picture of all the parts that I have accumulated minus the LS3 valves because I was to lazy to walk to the garage.

[DETROITMUSCLE]

That plastic piece is for the oil and you can pry it out with a screwdriver, might as well take it out so the machine shop doesn't lose it and once you get it back it just pushes back in.

[LSxDreamer]

Alright, thanks Jeff.

I am thinking bout selling the Katech Rod Bolts because I have been reading, Corvette Magazine especially, that the rod bolt design was vastly imporved over earlier versions. In that the rod bolts are of a all new stronger design to spread the load over all the bolt threads not just the top few and because I can't get them out.

Also I just ordered new Clevite Main, Rod, and Cam bearings, MSD Wires, and Prothane motor mounts from Creight! He awesome prices! I had to order the Piston Rings from GMPartsDirect.com though because there aren't any aftermarket rings for STOCK LS3 Pistons.

I want to order a new clutch not beacuse the LS6 one is bad it's just I have a lot of power that I'm going to be putting through it. So I was thinking about the LS7 Clutch Kit. I had one before on a T/A that I owned a couple years ago and REALLY liked it. But do you guys think it will be enough... My other option I was thinking the SPEC Stage 3+, but I really don't want to spend the money on buying their flywheel and spending $700+.

I am also going to have the dents pulled from the bottom of the headers from a friend and the build a custom Y-Pipe with a Flowmaster merge. I am picking up a used SLP Dual/Dual cat-back for $150!

[sman]

That plug is part of the oiling system, remember which way it goes in! If its put in wrong it could result in low/no oil pressure. There are alot of threads on ls1 tech about guys putting that in wrong resulting in catastrophe.

[LSxDreamer]

Thanks so much for telling me that Spencer! I would have been pissed if that is what F'd this build and I would be doing what Brian is!

[sman]

NP, it was just something I remember reading when I was doing my swap.