Welcome to the Michigan FBody Association website.
The Michigan FBody Association is a centralized website for FBody enthusiasts to discuss what's going on in the Michigan area. MiFbody.com was created to allow for an easy one-stop place to find out what's going on in Michigan as far as FBody events, to find out what clubs are available in your immediate area, and for an easy place to post classifieds for items you want to sell! Our goal was to create a more close-knit community of FBody enthusiasts in the state of Michigan, and to bring Camaro and Firebird enthusiasts alike together for some amazing FBody events!
The most important thing to know about the Michigan FBody Association is that we are NOT a club! The Michigan FBody Association is open to everyone, and is a community. Thus, we will have get togethers, casual cruises, events, and such like that, but this is not an exclusive club and it's 100% free to join this site! So what are you waiting for? Register now!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us!
<-------- does want badly!! Mainly for the fact of setting up a two step no lift shift. I would be sooooo much more comfortable powershifting my car with that.
2011 Mustang GT
20" Satin Black AMRs with 305/35 & 275/35 MT Street Radials, Saleen Grille, CS Lower Valance, Roush Axleback, GT500 Spoiler, resonator delete
Reminds me of the fun with the pushrods. I was getting stressed out because I went ahead about bought the stock length hardened pushrods from Comp Cams and a few people were telling me I needed to measure pushrod length. Then I read on CamaroZ28 (Joel's pushrod help thread, actually) and saw that one of the guys on there was swearing up and down that the stock pushrod length would be perfectly suitable for almost every h/c swap.
yea stock length should be good for you, you only milled .010 and im guessing your gaskets will be close stock compressed thickness.
I did however determine 7.150 was the best for me but i took off (cant remember the exact number) at least .04x with the combination of my gaskets and milling.
Would you suggest then buying ARP main studs as well Joel The slope begins, welcome to my world I have yet to get my motor out of the machine shop because of shit like this lol
ive not read anything on it but i dont think id bother with the main studs unless you were doing the whole kit and kaboodle adding splayed main caps and what not.
A heli Coil is going to be some work
IMO, DON'T drill it by hand, you won't get it straight and then you will have more problems.
An engine shop will probibly charge you about 30.00 to do it and it will be right but that means you would have to remove the crank.
You don't wnat to half ass anything on the motor!
Just my opinion!
The way I put the hub back on B is to go and buy the proper bolt from the hard ware store that is long enough to engage 1" of thread and then slowlly crank it on with a rachet using washers to make up the difference till you get it on far enough to install the original bolt.
I think our problem was we didn't have proper thead size on the insert bolt. do you happen to know correst thread and bolt size I think its 7/16 24 but could be metric.
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1998 Trans Am Convertible A4 - WS6 hood, WS6 air lid, WS6 rims, drilled/slotted rotors.
Definitely - just don't like the "LS1 touched by the hand of god" complex that are on other sites.
So I should be getting these rod bolts, right?
I would recommend it however do some homework of your own... Ive never even considered it because ive never had my engine out of my car like you have the luxury of
Come on Brian with all the searching you have done you should know what the operating range of the cam is (should be on the cam card). That alone should tell you what your potential rpm will be. Myself I have the weakest rod bolts of all the LS1 years and I would not hesitate to spin it past 6000 rpm if it was cammed accordingly. Besides think of it this way how much time is your engine actually going to spend above 6000 rpm. chances are it will be tuned to shift below that anyways. Bt like others have said you already in there so why not do it. JMO
Craig
Semi Retired Street Racer
2012 Lava Red Mustang GT 5.0 MT82
GONE BUT NOT FORGOTEN
sigpic NBM `98 Formula M6 HdTp
1 of 1 Build Date 3/12/98
"Political correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional, illogical, liberal minority, and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."
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Just because it says 6200-6400 doesn't mean I have to rev it that high. Not saying I'm not going to, but regardless if I tell Steve I don't want it revving too high oh well robbin a few HP's.
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The slope begins, welcome to my world I have yet to get my motor out of the machine shop because of shit like this lol
357ci LT1, cammed, stalled, and driven. 
Yeah, no thanks.. rather not be a sellout.
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