Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Exhaust Identification Help

Collapse
X
Collapse
Who has read this thread:
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #31
    It doesnt feel like its the drivers side that is hitting. My drivers side clearance problem is with the frame theres only about 1/4 inch between it and the lower tube. I picked up my motor and trans mounts today, I am going to begin installation soon. Maybe tomorrow. Im on midnights this week and its catching up to me. I have to go to Bell tire tomorrow for tires on the Jeep. Then its back under the Camaro. I need to pull the pas. header to correct a fitment issue that is causing a leak. One of the bolts doesnt line up correctly and binds. So I cant properly tighten it, and I get a small leak there. I figure since it would make the mount installation easier Ill start there. Readjust the rocker arm preload to get rid of a pesky cold engine tick. Re install the ory pipe and cat back. And I should be golden.
    So, after all that is done, if it still is hitting then I will break out the floorjack customising tools. I hope that it will not be neccesary.

    Comment


    • #32
      if you an in person second opinion on anything just holler. sucks the weather went to s*** now
      -Joel
      1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
      1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


      WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

      Comment


      • #33
        Thanks , dont be surprised if I take you up on that. yeah it is crap out there right now. Give me a week to square it away....again...."sigh"..... At least I know it still runs, hopefully I wont have to wait till spring to test drive it. lol.

        Comment


        • #34
          I just might have to wait till spring. Auto Zone sold me the wrong drivers side motor mount insert. Wont be here till tuesday. So I am in a holding pattern till then.

          Also the pas. header isnt laid out correctly where it bolts to the head. 3 of the ports have blown out into the bolt holes, and the rear bolt was riding on top of the outside weld. This caused all kinds of binding on that bolt. I had to use a burr and relieve some of the bolt holes to get rid of the binding problem Then weld up the 3 ports to keep the exhaust from leaking out the bolt holes. So that should take care of my exhaust leak.
          Last edited by zeeman; November 17th, 2013, 01:28 PM.

          Comment


          • #35
            Originally posted by zeeman View Post
            I just might have to wait till spring. Auto Zone sold me the wrong drivers side motor mount insert. Wont be here till tuesday. So I am in a holding pattern till then.

            Also the pas. header isnt laid out correctly where it bolts to the head. 3 of the ports have blown out into the bolt holes, and the rear bolt was riding on top of the outside weld. This caused all kinds of binding on that bolt. I had to use a burr and relieve some of the bolt holes to get rid of the binding problem Then weld up the 3 ports to keep the exhaust from leaking out the bolt holes. So that should take care of my exhaust leak.
            Man sorry to hear about that. I have the real pacesetters on my car right now and no such problem. I will have to compare the flanges when i go to change to the stainless ones, definitely would be easier to make modifications ahead of time, thanks for the heads up. Also I'll still take this issue over having to beat them with a sledgehammer
            -Joel
            1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
            1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


            WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

            Comment


            • #36
              You make a good point. I am not that upset about it, But I wish I would have noticed these issues before installation. It should be fine now.

              It was odd that it was only on one side though. The driver side is near perfect.

              Comment


              • #37
                Things have taken a turn for the worse. I got the replacement motor mount in, with slightly less cussing than expected, I might add. So I figured I might as well start putting the headers back on. I tackled the drivers side first. Putting new motor mounts on the car made things worse. The collector end of the header is above the box section that the cross member bolts to. The tube that was a 1/4 inch away from the frame is now less than 1/8 inch away and can be made to hit by lightly tapping it with my hand. And ,as a bonus, the same tube now hits the part of the motor mount that is mounted to the front crossmember. I really hope no one bought these headers based on my initial impressions of them.
                I am pretty fed up right now. I decided to hold off on the other side for a while. Maybe this weekend.



                EDIT: Looks like I might need that sledge hammer after all.. I just hope I can stop after I start using it.

                Comment


                • #38
                  I must have missed the fact you were going with poly engine mounts. On both of my Camaros they ended up raising the engine at least 1/4".

                  On the IROC it was enough to shove the intake plenum into my strut tower brace, which had plenty of clearance before

                  1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
                  1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
                  1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc

                  2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    I was hoping they would hold things a bit steadier. I am communicating with the seller. I doubt it will do any good but we'll see what happens.

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      Well I am pleased to report that the seller is a good guy. He refunded me $100.00 of the purchase price so I can get some fabricating done on the headers to fix these clearance issues. They are on the car again, for now. I need to see what effect the new mounts have had before I go any further with this. I am also talking to a shop about how to address the drivers side collector that ends behind the subframe. The subframe protrudes down into where the pipe needs to be, like the header should be about 3/4 of an inch lower. So at least I have capital to work with.
                      I hope to get a test ride later this week.

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        The subframe that hangs low is the piece i pressed up slightly with a floor jack. I wouldnt go much more than a half inch with that "fix" though or youll start to notice a bump in the floorboard.
                        -Joel
                        1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
                        1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


                        WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          I took a torch and a hammer to the y pipe today and flattened the top out. That baby is about 3/4 of an inch away from the x member now. took a carbide bit to the motor mount and relieved it a bit. Nothing is hitting yet, so thats good. It seems to be missing under heavy load, thats not so good, but its driving again. I might get a couple rides in it before the weather stops me. Gotta check my wires tomorrow.

                          Comment


                          • #43
                            Wires would be the first place i would look for a misfire under load...been there and got the tshirt a few times already.
                            -Joel
                            1995 Z28 M6 - AI226/234 - autocross ricer
                            1984 Scottsdale K10 - 305/4bbl/4spd


                            WTB List:Midwest Chasis DS Loop

                            Comment


                            • #44
                              Wires appear to be ok, no arching, everything is on and tight. I dont know why but my gut is telling me a rocker arm is to tight . So I am going to pull the valve covers and adjust them at idle. I dont have any luck doing them static. We'll see in a couple days.

                              Comment


                              • #45
                                Probably be a good idea if [MENTION=393]Superman09[/MENTION] didn't stock these headers.....might be bad for business.....
                                sigpicJust a slow 400 plus RWHP LT1.....428/370 NA

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X