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OK, my N20 system and 3 digital gauges are plugged into the IGN slot just below the Gauge Fuse.. This is a switched 12V source.. Since yesterday I have blown my gauge fuse twice, and when I blow the fuse I lose the IGN power source also.. Are the 2 connected somehow? I have a 30 Amp inline fuse for the gauges and N20 and that fuse does not blow.. Sorta confused as to why I lose gauges that aren't even wired in with the the fuse that keeps blowing.. I will be looking for a new power source.. Was going to use the accy slot, but there is nothing to plug into..
Larry, do your gauges do a full "sweep" when you put your key and turn the in on position?
Also unplug all you extra stuff that you have plugged in IGN space. Turn key on and plug one in at a time. If one of them blow a fuse, you might have a bare wire.
This is where I would start. Post up out come if you try this, hope this helps
'91 Camaro Modded, LSx, House of Kolor Intense White, lowered, GS chrome 18" wheels, 14" Brembo CTS-V on all 4 corners, LS rear end, FP suspension components
" When in doubt...throttle out ! "
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Larry, do your gauges do a full "sweep" when you put your key and turn the in on position?
Also unplug all you extra stuff that you have plugged in IGN space. Turn key on and plug one in at a time. If one of them blow a fuse, you might have a bare wire.
This is where I would start. Post up out come if you try this, hope this helps
Gauges just come on like normal. Voltage and fuel gage move, oil pressure and temp stay at 0(on cold start, warm start temp gauge will go to whatever the temp is)... and digitals light up.. I'm just confused as to why my digital stuff goes out and it's not even wired into the gauge fuse.... For now, I am just leaving the nitrous and dig gauges unplugged... Will mess with it after the M&G...
does the fuse still pop with the dig gauges and NOS unplugged ?
I drove it for an hour unplugged... Still good for now.. Will drive it this week and see what happens.. I just curious how the IGN plug in the fuse box and the gauge fuse are tied in....
Like the guys have said, it's a switched ignition source and you may be causing it to draw more through the other circuits. Everything ignition on related is routed through the switch and main ignition circuit and relay (Generally only rated for 30/40A max).
Odd though that you've got high current draw - I would definitely double check your circuits - including your grounds. See what's pulling the most current - you may have a component going bad drawing a high amount of current.
In my opinion, anything with up to 30A draw shouldn't be routed through that box or doubled up on another circuit - Relay it.
Use the Ignition tap wire as your relay trigger, and let the relay and side fuse handle the job. (Generally triggers only take about 400mA of current to operate)
Last edited by TrickyTransAm; May 30th, 2011, 12:15 PM.
Like the guys have said, its a switched ignition source and you may be causing it to draw more through the other circuits. Odd though that you've got that much of a current draw - I would definitely double check your circuits - including your grounds.
Anything with up to 30A draw shouldn't be routed through that box or doubled up on another circuit - Relay it.
Use the Ignition tap wire as your relay trigger, and let the relay and side fuse handle the job.
2002 T/A. I'll be checking everything over.. For now Just unhooked everything.. Car is still fully functional(except N20 and digital gauges).. I just don't have time to mess with it before the M&G.. I have 2 relays for my N20(1 for the bottle warmer, other for the system) and a 30 AMP inline fuse.. My gauges are also linked in with the N20... Might be too much going on there... Or something came loose, worked fine for 500 miles... My sons Open House is coming soon, won't have a lot of time to mess with it before the 18th.. But like I said, no biggie, it's drivable as is....
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