time for a compression check
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smoke coming out of my valve cover???
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Post Slut
- December 9th, 2011
- 5919
- Michael H
- 1989 Iroc-Z Convertible/1998 Z28
- Greenville, MI
- Die Maker
- Send PM

1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc
2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver
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you can use that vacume pump as long as you wire it to run continus, switchable 12v. as far as the vacume line you should only have 1 running to the engine and 1 running to the catch can. and you will fine it may even give 2-5 hp due to better ring seal.Originally posted by Gaspo View Postthanks ken. can i use the vacuum pump from my car? i removed it and still have it laying around. does it just need one vacuum line that goes to it?
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ok. why does it start smoking? what are the causes? you said motors built past a certain point get windage?Originally posted by sniperperformance View Postyou can use that vacume pump as long as you wire it to run continus, switchable 12v. as far as the vacume line you should only have 1 running to the engine and 1 running to the catch can. and you will fine it may even give 2-5 hp due to better ring seal.98 z28, m6, monster clutch, eibach pro kit, custom twin turbo setup, 317 heads, z06 valve springs, arp rod bolts, 512rwhp at 10lbs. cobra eater
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instead of me screwing you up trying to explain it will post a couple links. im not much of a teacher but i try. lol. plus you gotta keep in mind you took its natual way of somewhat controling windage away when you deleted the pcv system.Originally posted by Gaspo View Postok. why does it start smoking? what are the causes? you said motors built past a certain point get windage?
In automotive parlance, windage refers to parasitic drag on the crankshaft caused by oil splashing out of the sump at high rpm. At 6,000 rpm, for example, the crankshaft must rotate 100 times per second. As the crankpins and counterweights rotate at such high speeds, they create a swirling cloud of air around them. Windage is considered to occur when excess oil is caught up in this turbulent air, drawing energy from the engine to spin the oil mist. Windage may also inhibit the migration of oil into the sump and back to the oil pump, creating lubrication problems. Some manufacturers and aftermarket vendors have developed special scrapers to remove excess oil from the counterweights, and windage screens to create a barrier between the crankshaft and oil sump. or vacume pumps are used to create a vacume with-in the crank case.
http://nutterracingengines.com/racin...uum_facts.html
alittle red kneck but you'll get the point. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XIw--72EKU0
this is another reason why in some cases a high volume or high pressure oil pump can be bad. i wold recomend deing a leak down test in-which will problebly pass with flying collors. then go to the vacuum system. hope this helps.Last edited by masterfab; February 21st, 2012, 01:09 AM.
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I guess what doesn't make sense to me is why would this issue occurr out of the blue when it was fine before and the can has been running in this configuration for a while now? I wouldn't delete the PCV myself it typically causes oil to splash all over the engine bay right out of the breathers. Also the stock air pump is what I believe you are referring to and as it can be used for a makeshift vacuum pump I think you will find that it will crap out quickly as its not designed to have oil running through it. The correct fix in your case would be to route a proper PCV system with a catch can in place or to run an actual vacuum pump would be the most ideal but they are not cheap (probably 700 minimum to get a complete system).Doing less with more

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here are some prime examples of proper pcv setups.
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/11059703-post70.htmlDoing less with more

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I don't get it why in the hell would anyone want to remove the PCV system, hit the net guys ifs a proven fact that it helps your rings seat. You want this setup on your motor unless its a racecar. Also why do u think everyone that runs just open filters complains about oil mist all over there motor. Or run the catch can set up as Kammi10 mentioned.
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i agree, why would it just start out of nowhere? i've put 8 or 10k miles on this setup. tony, the reason i got rid of the pcv system is because i was "boosting the crankcase". i noticed a shit ton of oil under my car one day. cleaned it all up, and it was coming from EVERY gasket it could of came out of. valve covers, rear main, etc. i looked into it, and people said that if i take my pcv system out, and put breathers it wont let any pressure build up. i've never had a problem with oil in the engine compartment. the filters turned from blue to black, but no squirting oil thru them.98 z28, m6, monster clutch, eibach pro kit, custom twin turbo setup, 317 heads, z06 valve springs, arp rod bolts, 512rwhp at 10lbs. cobra eater
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Post Slut
- December 9th, 2011
- 5919
- Michael H
- 1989 Iroc-Z Convertible/1998 Z28
- Greenville, MI
- Die Maker
- Send PM
PCV cannot be on the pressure side.
1998 Camaro Z28 - Bright Red, 6.0 TR224, 4l60e, 3.42 Eaton TrueTrac
1989 Camaro IROC-Z Convertible - 355 big tube TPI, WC T5, 3.42 Zexel Torsen, CTS-V/C4 brakes
1955 Bel Air 2 Door Post - 357 TPI, Muncie M20, 4 wheel disc
2006 Saab 9-7x 5.3i Daily Driver
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your stock PCV system runs back into your intake. when you boost a motor you fill your intake up with air in and it goes back into your PCV system. Some people run a one way check valve in their stock setup and/or in addition to a catch can. Running a breather on the valve cover is kindof a not great approach to this as like others said they blow oily misty crap all over your engine bay.
I ran two -8 lines from both of my valve covers and into a catch can that has baffels inside of it and a breather on top. it fills up with some condensation/water mostly and sometimes a little oil accumulates after a few weeks. and it has a petcock drain on the bottom. The can is located inside of my passanger side fender. I tapped a fitting in the rear of the drivers side valve cover and had a weld on -8 bung put on the rear of the passanger side valve cover.
I might get a little puff of smoke out of mine at the end of a pass or on a full pull on the dyno, but other than that there isn't much smoke coming out of it...Last edited by SS4Matt; February 21st, 2012, 07:17 PM.1998 Camaro SS Bullseye Turbo
2002 F-250 7.3 Leveled on 20s with 35's
2006 Yamaha R6 50th Anniversary
http://www.mifbody.com/vbulletin/sho...-Update/page11

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ya, mind just started smoking hardcore. i ran a hose from the nipple on the passenger side valve cover out to under the car (just so it wasnt smoking all in my engine bay) and it looks like i have another exhaust pipe blowing out....98 z28, m6, monster clutch, eibach pro kit, custom twin turbo setup, 317 heads, z06 valve springs, arp rod bolts, 512rwhp at 10lbs. cobra eater
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for the most part you are correct. i would delete it either. as for the vacume pump. you would be amazed at how long they last. no. its no a advanced 3 vain morso pump. but i have used it myself and it will see 3-5psi vacuum. and is a whole lot cheaper than a complete vacume system. i have ran the electric setup all the way up to 750hp and it worked great for the time i owned the car. of course i made it look a whole lot more professional using AN. line and hiding the pump.Originally posted by DETROITMUSCLE View PostI guess what doesn't make sense to me is why would this issue occurr out of the blue when it was fine before and the can has been running in this configuration for a while now? I wouldn't delete the PCV myself it typically causes oil to splash all over the engine bay right out of the breathers. Also the stock air pump is what I believe you are referring to and as it can be used for a makeshift vacuum pump I think you will find that it will crap out quickly as its not designed to have oil running through it. The correct fix in your case would be to route a proper PCV system with a catch can in place or to run an actual vacuum pump would be the most ideal but they are not cheap (probably 700 minimum to get a complete system).
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Correction on the last post!!!
Jeremy if your running boost do not hook the pvc system up. run the vacume system even if you go with a moroso vacume pump. unless you want to push oil out of every gasket location. in which im sure you dont. what is your setup. if you dont want to post it pm me and i will help you out the best i can. or you can call i will pm the number to you.
here a diagram from the thread that jeff posted i have tryed this some times it worked some time it didnt i would still try it before spending and money.
Even with the diagrams below i alawys recomend a vacuum pump when there is windage in play. aspecially with a turbo. the added ring seal will help you out all the way around. that being said good luck.

Last edited by masterfab; February 21st, 2012, 10:24 PM.
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Sounds like you got bigger problems than a catch can/vacuum pump is gonna solve. Better start saving your pennies.Originally posted by Gaspo View Postya, mind just started smoking hardcore. i ran a hose from the nipple on the passenger side valve cover out to under the car (just so it wasnt smoking all in my engine bay) and it looks like i have another exhaust pipe blowing out....sigpicTurbo Charged LS1/T56
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/\ I have to agree, the motor sounds hurt to me I would further investigate with a leakdown test. Some smoke is probably fine with your current breathers but def not at idle on a cold motor. This is why I suggested pulling the plugs because its very common in these motor to get hot on 7 and 8. Some of this can be remedied by using all 4 steam vents on the heads but once the stock rings get hot they have tight gap from the factory and they have a tendency to butt together and crack a ringland. Then again you say the car seem to run just fine so maybe I'm way off but the facts don't add up to me.Doing less with more

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