<Project> 2000 Trans Am

[Lucky SOB]

I'm still learning about it too, but they set the crank in a jig and lower it into a basin of fluid. If you've ever seen a vertical mill, these machines look similar. They then erode the bolt. The guy told me the smallest they can go is .0012" diameter. Maybe Don can explain more as he seems to be pretty familiar with the process. Pretty cool stuff though.

[OVRKILL]

Electric discharge machining.....it still amazes me to watch that process. Cool solution to a shit problem.

[DynoDave]

Thanks guys. That sounds like what I've read, and it's billed as the best way to get rid of a hardened metal. But how do they control it? How do they get rid of the hardened steel bolt, but not the threads inside the crank (which I assume are softer)?

[hoogiesngrinderz]

Thanks guys. That sounds like what I've read, and it's billed as the best way to get rid of a hardened metal. But how do they control it? How do they get rid of the hardened steel bolt, but not the threads inside the crank (which I assume are softer)?

EDM will essentially zap the metal into small bits, one to two microns particles, which gets washed away with the deionized water. My uncle does a lot of wire EDM, not much small hole EDM. It is fascinating to watch.

Once the majority of the bolt is eroded away, it's just pulling the treaded portion of the bolt out. Hardened metal isn't that strong when there is little left

[farmington]

Not sure of that but everything we use it on at work is aluminum and it doesn't destroy those threads when burning out hardened steel or carbide

[hoogiesngrinderz]

EDM wire is usually very precise, 40 microns or less. About 0.00157480315" or less with a very high end machine. I'm bet small hole EDM isn't quite that precise, but still

[formula218]

very cool stuff. i had to look a video so i could see it being done, and then i was even more amazed lol.

[DynoDave]

Thanks guys. Always learn something hanging around here.

[Lucky SOB]

Just heard from the EDM shop and it's ready to be picked up. Threads are fine and the stock bolt threads in by hand all the way. Now just to see if the threads hold 240 ft-lbs...

All said and done it was $90. I'll take that any day.

[farmington]

ARP recommends u use their thread lube when u use their fasteners. Might not be a bad idea.

[hoogiesngrinderz]

Just use the old bolt to snug it up and put a new $7 OEM bolt in, then torque it down

[JoeliusZ28]

let me know when were putting this thing together

[Lucky SOB]

Thanks for the tips guys. I'm pretty confident with the proper tool that things we go better this time. And yes I am using a new OEM bolt, not an ARP.

@1BADAIR ... Opinion on bearings? I have showed a couple people who said they look fine. Planning to reuse them.

[1BADAIR]

Like I said. The stock bearings are crazy. Mine had a bad pump and I'm not sure how far I went with no pressure and they still looked new. If they are not worn, discolored or have junk imbedded. Throw it back together. I have done a bunch of reluctor swaps (58 to 24) and just lay rods over and remove crank. All looked great

[1BADAIR]

I use a light coating of royal purple or the like assembly Lube . Bearings , valve tips and pushrod tips. With that we never even did the pull injector fuse and crank to prime oil. Not sure if Phil still does it but him and I agreed that the slow crank normally washed the oil/lube out before it primes. Turn key and start. Usually instant pressure