Smans 5.3 build up!

[sman]

Biggest advice I can give is do all your upgrades before you put the motor in the car, even if you dont have the money, just wait and do it when you can. Ill probably be pulling mine again this winter. O and get the engine bay harness, it will make life easier.

[Joedashredder93]

could you give me a rough estimate on how much this job cost you so I know how much I need to save up for? and do you mean upgrades like intake and exhaust or just other stuff? thank you

[lozanoa11]

Lol you read the whole thing and you still wanna do it??? LOL JK! Man its alot more work then you think and much more expensive. Not trying to deture you but if you dont have a crazy attachment to your car i would sell it and buy and ls1 car.

[sman]

X2, its alot of work, ill see what I can come up with cost wise, going to take a few days though.

By upgrades I mean intake, headers, cam, lifters, valvetrain, heads, whatever. Its WAY easier to do that stuff with the motor out of the car.

[1BADAIR]

gonna put a rear mount turbo on this winter?

[sman]

Haha, I was thinking more like SFC's, rear control arms, ls6 intake, and ls6 cam or ls1 hotcam.

[1BADAIR]

you won't like the hotcam.
tons of overlap.
a 220 or tr224 114 would probably be nice

[Joedashredder93]

I just want a basic reliable v8 that sounds good with a nice throttle response. Yea that makes more sense now. after reading it I know know what to do and not do lol
thanks for the info. I love my car and I don't want to pay much more for an ls1 car unless i could trade it.

[sman]

I need a cam that is VERY drivable, I put close to 80 miles a day on the car, both city and expressway. Gas milage is one thing I value alot in this thing, I dont really care about around town, but to school, both jobs, and up north im on the expressway.

Which cam would be best for that? Current numbers are in the sig. Id really like to see 350 to the wheels.

[1BADAIR]

the hotcam is a big no then.
you may have to port the heads to get to that number.
I think the tr220 would get you close and it would be very drivable. probable barely be able to tell it has a cam. would have alot of low end power too
http://www.thunderracing.com/dynogra...n=read&pgid=94
this graph looks a little diff because it had a 3000 stall

[c0ncEpT]

I would look around for a used TR220 or TR224. Either of those cams would make great power and drive good in a 5.3

The only time people talk about gas mileage in a cammed stalled auto car is to tell each other how bad it is. I wouldn't be expecting to gain any mileage or for it even to stay same for that matter. You should expect to see a 2-4mpg drop depending on the driving habits in the city. Highway shouldn't be effected to much.

[sman]

Im assuming it would drop, just aslong as its not on the highway or not by much anyway. As long as it drives good that all I car about, 340 is plenty enough umph, that a good 60 to 80 horse upgrade right there.

I just dont really want to do the work, lol. Maybe larry wants to do it, hint hint.

[my95z28]

Gas milage is one thing I value alot in this thing, I dont really care about around town, but to school, both jobs, and up north im on the expressway.Which cam would be best for that? Current numbers are in the sig. Id really like to see 350 to the wheels.

A t56 Lol, jk man

[JoeliusZ28]

Im assuming it would drop, just aslong as its not on the highway or not by much anyway. As long as it drives good that all I car about, 340 is plenty enough umph, that a good 60 to 80 horse upgrade right there.

I just dont really want to do the work, lol. Maybe larry wants to do it, hint hint.

It will drop all around.

You are changing your springs out for stronger ones, and opening the valves further. What turns the cam but the crankshaft?

let alone the lost efficiency of overlap with the larger durations.

[sman]

Bringing this back up vs starting a new thread, if your not familiar with the car, read the thread....

I have an issue that flat out needs to be resolved.

This thing is STILL drinking oil.... Ever since roughly the time of the cam swap its using about a quart every 1,000 miles.

Tried new valve seals, twice.....
Tried revised metered orifice(not rattling check ball type) pcv valve (helped a little)

I changed the plugs after 20k miles, they were black, wet with oil, and there was so much crap built up on the end of them you could barely slide a piece of paper through the end of the plug.

Help?