Superman09's Heart Surgery

[Superman09]

you can, but i think the back studs u leave in the heads. possible, but PITA.

New trans is going in with a new verter....

[Superman09]

I just read through all 5 pages and i'm impressed with the project so far. What heads you running with this new setup?

Why are you so worried about getting off the stock torque converter? I'd imagine you are getting a nice TCI unit, right?

6.0l 317's, 72cc

[DETROITMUSCLE]

who ever said the new motor was an LS1 Jonny did you get the converter bolts from the motor side? There should be three bolts that attach it, if not then thats ****ed up. Yank conveter FTW!

[Superman09]

Jeff, there is... i see them now. Between the flywheel and the block going threw the flywheel into the converter..... how the eff do i get anything on them to take em off?

[DETROITMUSCLE]

get by the starter and there should be enough room to fit a ratchet you'll have to turn the converter to see them but eventually they will come off.

[1BADAIR]

who ever said the new motor was an LS1 Jonny did you get the converter bolts from the motor side? There should be three bolts that attach it, if not then thats ****ed up. Yank conveter FTW!

I see the location of the cam sensor in the new block
I also recommend a yank over the others. Who built the trans? I know a local guy that builds convertors and mean 4l60's

[Superman09]

send me info please Larry. Right now the weapon of choice is a 4l80-e slightly built and a yank verter, but if this guy you know is legit and can back his product and is a decent price, maybe he can sway my means. 4l80-e is the ticket to go with but i really am not looking forward to having to modify it to fit with the turbo kit, case would need grinding, and they are very pricey. Shoot me some info tho.


Thanks Jeff, im going to go try and yank it off now

[Superman09]

im effing stumped on this double roller timing set, anyone have any idea? Read my 5th post in this thread and look at the pics and tell me if i have it right.... http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=836627

[1BADAIR]

the dots should line up. The number is for advance. you would want the 0 on the keyway. the longer bolts are for the oil pump.
number 6 will be TDC compression stroke in this position.

[Superman09]

yep, except there is no dot on the crank gear.... theres 2 sets of numbers, inners and then another set out on the teeth. I have the 0 on the far out tooth number lined up at 12 o clock with pistons 1 and 6 at TDC, and in this scenario, the inner set of numbers happens to have the 0 fall right on the key.... makes sense to me and seems right, but i need some verification.

[Superman09]

huh?

[JoeliusZ28]

huh?

transmission guy

[1BADAIR]

as long as they both are on 0 and its at TDC you should be golden.
do they line up? cause in those pics its off a bit
the numbers go with each other. key 2 goes with tooth 2. look close and you can see that each key gets farther away from the same numbered tooth

[Superman09]

they line up perfectly, in that pictured i just cranked the motor a tad too far so it looks a bit off, but its dead nuts on. I am really clueless as to what you are saying..... I have the inner number ) on the key, and the motor with #1 and 6 at TDC, and the outer tooth 0 facing 12 o clock...

[JAdair]

Ohhh very nice jonny hope all goes well when you put the thing back in